epsilonGreedy

Oh interesting, not an option I had considered. Concrete on top of insulation, hmmm I suppose this is what the passiv slabs are but on a bigger scale. I was concerned about the amount of foot traffic on the other screed types because this 11 m2 of floor area will be the main entrance to the house for a year or two before the whole of the ground floor is tiled. For the benefit of others SLC = Sand Latex Floor Leveling Compound. So @PeterWyou are suggesting a layup similar to a posh smooth garage workshop? I think I had ruled out cement because a conventional wagon will not get closer than 9 meters to this floor. Your post has got me wondering what the flow screeders who mix on site, would charge for such a small job.

I would not consider DIY screeding the whole of the ground floor, 70 m2 in my case. I just want a better site office and one appendage to the floor plan creates an option to get one room in the house operational. If a consistent level is your concern how about opting for an anhydrous flow screed, these are more fluid than other screed types. Also if your house falls short of passiv standards an anhydrous screed will be more thermally responsive to heating cycles.

The problem mixing a dry screed in a mixer is that it tumbles a mixture consisting of small rolling balls around the drum and this results in insufficient mixing of the sand and cement. I have seen this before when operating my mixer onsite. The hire of a horizontal paddle mixer (sometime called a forced action mixer) seems quite cheap. In view of what @PeterWis saying about 75mm of sand/cement screed being barely enough I might up the depth to 100mm which leads to about 1.5 tons of the stuff!

I have been watching some videos on traditional sand/cement floor screeding and noticed many of the properties already have finished plastered walls as the screed is laid.. For some reason these videos are Irish in origin, so maybe wall plastering before floor screeding is a local convention in that part of the British Isles.

I am considering bringing up the floor from block & beam to screeded FFL in one small section of the house in advance of the mainfloor flow screeding of about 60 m2. This 11 m2 section of the floor will not have UFH and will connect to the main floor at one door threshold. My options seem to be traditional dry screed cement & sand mixed on site or 42 bags of Webber 4360 flow screed also mixed on site then poured manually as in this training video: Zero Skill Floor Screeding. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0O_Ldb70z0 Has anyone tackled a floor screed task of this size without prior screeding experience? I have already discovered that a dry sand/cement floor screen should not be mixed in a conventional tumble mixer which means I will have to hire an electric horizontal paddle mixer. The dry screed make up would be 150mm of EPS + 75mm of screed.

The things we choose to dispute to create entertainment on a cold wet March day!

That makes sense, however my current w/m is about 90mm high in the shed which is beneficial. Think I will opt for 150mm in the finished house. A tumble dryer at 900mm high seems practical.

Before I purchased my plot with planning permission there had been 60 comments with about 75% against the development. It went to committee.

Which is once every 7 years over the life of two machines compared to 250 x 21 years = 5250 brain aneurism inducing bends.

The man who built his own house and erected his own scaffolding considers raising a washing machine 6" a lift too far? That's odd.

According to the manufacturer of linseed oil paints I spoke to last week, their paints are most effective when built up from bare wood. As I envision the window fitting job the challenge is not just lifting a 100kg frame, the main challenge is to wobble and shimmy the frame forward into the block recess until the face of the frame has made firm contact with the rear of the facing bricks. I imagine this job would be much simpler with the sashes plus heavy glazing removed. I just saw pump up wedges used to fit a window on YouTube, they look handy. Yes this is critical, the upstairs windows start at two blocks high and rise to nose height. A health & safety nightmare.

Just make sure the machine cannot shuffle forward off its plinth, I have to reposition mine every other month. See the @Jeremy Harris incident reported in the old thread.

Our elevated washing machine is still installed in the "site workers laundry facility" ex. garden shed. Now even more convinced a small plinth makes all the difference (90mm high).

I will cut some spare osb board, paint with the linseed test pot that arrived last week and mock up one corner.

I am burning a lot of brain cycles on this single detail, one problem is there are few examples locally. As Kevin McCloud would say the local vernacular is barebones eaves, no overhang with guttering hanging off brackets embedded in the facing bricks. Does your photo show the 225mm end result? Another benefit of slim fascias is that this will exhibit more of the expensive flat fan arches above the upper window.

Ok so maybe I should calculate the fascia height as a ratio of the eave overhang i.e. about 75% of the overhang. Just need to check this also works for the gutter mount and drop from the slate edge..

I need to decide how high my fascia should be, is there an industry default height on which I can then base any aesthetic adjustments? My fascia will most likely be 1" thick wood painted in an offwhite with black metal gutters. Other details: Dark grey slate, 30 degree pitch hipped roof, 8" to 10" eave overhang. We are aiming for the Jane Austen vintage look and I use Frogmore Cottage (2nd photo) for a heritage point of reference. A retired architect in the village stopped for a chat last year and recommended a more shallow fascia, he added that a deep fascia is a tell-tale modern feature driven by the need for thick attic insulation.

I think "Deeds" are a collective term used by we lay people, legal pros refer to specific parts of the Deeds such as Title and Plan. You need to scrutinize the large body of text in LR document TP1.

Ok so now you have a bigger problem because your seller cannot grant you additional access rights to the strip of land owned by the plot to the left. You will be constrained to whatever was agree at the point of the original plot split. I suggest you obtain the LR docs for both your future plot and the retained land which acquired a new LR title number at the point of the original split. A good solicitor would also review the Deeds of the original plot prior to the split. As @nod say you can get your own copies and spend an evening reading these. The "Access Way" is a thing. Your rights to the retained land would fall under the category of easements. Rights to use the access way would be one example of an "easement". Also look for the definitions part of the Deeds to establish what the Access Way is. Easements can work both ways, the retained land might have easement rights to your future plot. Ask the solicitor for the numerical ids of the contract clauses that demonstrate "yes, its fine."

"Easements" that would give you rights of access across other land are something the seller will propose as the solicitors communicate, they should do this to entice you to purchase the plot. Is your plot being split from the main house & garden at the point of your purchase?

I think permitted development rights do not apply until the original development is completed as per plan. Could someone else confirm? Future permitted development rights might influence the thinking of a planning officer when reviewing your formal application to vary something part way through development. You should also confirm your original approved planning did not withdraw standard permitted development rights from the outset.

Do your Deeds include a definition of the Access Way? In my Deeds the Common Access Way is colour highlighted in an attached plan.

That is money well spent in the era of the Presidential Downing Street, this is our stage to the world. The present shoddy arrangement gives the impression we Brits are so hard up Downing Street has not had a lick of interior paint or varnish since Queen Victoria opened the Great Exhibition.

!!! Yes ...?? If you believe we should live in a meritocracy.

https://www.civilservant.org.uk/information-pensions.html#:~:text=The scheme is unfunded%2C in,up to pay future pensions.