Dreadnaught

As I am a layman, I see the technical benefits as: Rock solid privacy and security. IP-based network communication. This is BIG! This means it is much easier for developers to integrate their devices with the wider internet and offers many other benefits. There is an open source implementation of "Matter", supported by Apple & Google on Github. See here. You can add code to it if you like Inclusion in Matter of the new "Thread" communication standard, which allows, for example, for sensors that run for 5-years on a single battery, and self-healing networking, and very low latency, and so on and so on. This is BIG! "Thread" is like Zigbee on steroids. Note that "Matter's" use of "Thread" is in addition to also using Wi-Fi for data-hungry devices, such as CCTV cameras. A "Matter" "packet of information" will seamlessly traverse both the Wi-FI and Thread networks in your home to find the right destination. There will be a hugely wider range of devices available from a wider range of manufacturers, all inter-operating. No more walled-gardens. At present the categories of devices encompassed by "Matter" for the "1.0" launch includes light bulbs, smart plugs, blinds, and thermostats. But security cameras, video doorbells, robot vacuums and washing machines, etc., will need to await a later upgrade, such as "1.1" or "1.2". I would. But there are others on this site who would say otherwise, quite legitimately. I am bullish about the speed of the roll out. Others are more skeptical. Time will tell. If you hold on to your current devices you will probably be able to integrate them with "Matter". Many manufacturers, including Philips Hue, have already announced upgrades to their hubs to support "Matter" (although IKEA announced a whole new hub and not a software upgrade). However for me, integrating non-Matter-devices in to a "Matter" network is a half-way house. "Matter" is intended to do away with such bridges. So if you can sell up and fully embrace "Matter" when it arrives, while accepting any lumps and bumps with its launch, that's the way to go. Note that with a "Thread" network under "Matter", the more Thread-devices on a network the stronger that network will be. Bridged non-thread devices don't count. If you keep any devices for a few years longer and bridge them to "Matter" and then upgrade them a few years later when "Matter" has fully taken over, those devices will have lost their residual value by then.

You would need an Apple TV box (under your TV) or a HomePod mini one to control your HomeKit network. There is a new home automation standard being launched in October called "Matter", which is supported by all the big names: Apple, Google, Amazon, Samsung, Ikea, Philips Hue, Dyson, Miele, Panasonic, Toshiba, and so on… Apple already supports "Matter" (including in the HomePod mini and Apple TV) so you are future-proofed. With "Matter" home automation devices will become interchangeable between platforms. You can control a "Matter" bulb from Apple HomeKit or Google Assistant for example. It should make the buying and setting-up of home automation devices smoother. ("Matter" offers many other techy-style advantages, which I won't bore you with unless you are interested.) I am building a new dwelling and I recently sold all my Philips Hue and other home automation gear. I will buy a new "Matter"-based set when my house is nearly finished. (interestingly I got all my money back when I sold the old lot. Quite a surprise! The items held their value well.) No, no additional functionality. Indeed the manufacturer's own apps sometimes offer a few bits of extra functionality that is not available through the Apple Home app. Plotting of graphs is very limited at the moment in the Apple Home app. That is the sort of function for which you would use the manufacturer's own app. And even there is it likely only to be a simple basic graph. Generally speaking, if you want (which I doubt you do) to log data points and be able to, for example, export a .csv data file of readings then you would need to run software on a raspberry-pi or use an online service for the purpose. Those functionalities have not really reached domestic home automation setups, and that is unlikely to change any time soon. Domestic home automation is realitcgialy aimed at convenience and ease-of-use for simple tasks like turning on the lights or locking the front door. (And until now many such systems have not been easy to use, or reliable, but that should improve with "Matter"). And such systems are not really aimed at techies who want to monitor CO₂ and humidity levels.

As you may well know, if you have an iPhone or other Apple devices then you can control everything exclusively using Apple HomeKit and its app if you wish. You use the Philips Hue app to "flip the switch" to do so and then don't need to use the Hue app any more. You can use Siri for voice controls or add widgets to your Home Screen to control the various devices. You can also automate your devices from the Apple Home App (e.g. all lights off when you leave home). By the way, the Apple Home app is in-line for a full re-design when, in the autumn, iOS 16 emerges from beta and is released to the general public. Form the beta, it looks much improved. I think the main reason to leave the Hue app behind is privacy (data sharing with an outside server) and better user interface.

It doesn't help you, but when I asked the concrete team that poured my raft when my concrete would finish setting, they said 40-years . There's some truth in that.

Yes I came to the same solution too. 52.5mm seems to be a standard depth for insulated plasterboard: 12.5mm plasterboard, 40mm of PIR insulation. Looking at YouTube videos, its seems easy to chase-out channels for cables, back boxes, etc., so you can use it even in areas where you have services. I am not yet at the stage of installing plasterboard but am thinking of using this when I do.

Perhaps think of it a different way. Think of UFH as having radiators the size of the floor. Such large "radiators" gives some distinct advantages. The circulating water can be a lower temperature for a given room temperature, which is helpful for an ASHP (now or as an option for later). The even infrared warmth that comes from across the entire floor is more pleasant than (hotter) radiators producing convection drafts. UFH when combined with an ASHP offers the option of cooling in summer. Can't do that with radiators.

In my case my manifolds will be in the plant room just below the plasterboard ceiling, so accessible. I would think you do need access to the manifolds for periodic cleaning. And also access during commissioning if you have the option of restrictors at the manifold (as well as at the terminals).

Thanks everyone. That's very helpful and clear. Much appreciated!

When during my build should I install my entrance door? Is it ideally a first fix item before plastering? Or can it be left to second fix? When did everyone else install theirs? I have a temporary front door in at present. With my build, I am can now see the end of external cladding and am heading towards starting first-fix proper. Given the entrance doors typically have 2- to 3-month delivery times, my thoughts are turning to the spec-and-order.

A manufacturer designed my MVHR system (after I designed it first and sent them my version). Pleased with their service. I suspect all manufacturers that sell directly to retail customers will have a design service.

I am using the fixings supplied by Eurobrick as part of their system.

Oh, good point. My BCO queried my choice of racking board on the outside but was fine with the brick slips system I am using. I am using Eurobrick's P-Clad system, which uses for a cement particle board for the backing board. For racking board, I had to swap my original choice of Medite Vent board for MagPly to make the BCO happy.

Dwelling footprint is 125 m² approx. A bungalow. Prices from 2020 through to mid-2021. Foundation design: £1,762, no VAT. Screwpile design was £780 ex. VAT. 26x screw piles were £7,886 ex. VAT. inc. delivery. Screwpile installation was £3,840, no VAT. Raft installation was £‎16,240, no VAT, including the concrete & steel, etc., but excluding the insulation and heave protection panels. Insulation (PIR): £3,421 ex. VAT. Heave protection panels: £2,400 ex. VAT. Hope that helps.

These big boys arrived today (normal 50mm screw included for scale) … should do the job I think … Thanks for all the advice.

I have a cellcore-alternative in my build. With screw piles, as I have, then it doesn't get attached, no. And it does need to be. And it doesn't matter if it sinks anyway so long as it stays in place until the concrete sets. The cell core is there to create a void while the concrete sets. Afterwards, it does not really do anything other than "be a void". The concrete & piles holds the building up. If the cell core sank, it wouldn't matter. You'd have a bigger void. However is it is unlikely to sink. In reality, when ground is excavated to make space for the cellcore the soil will slightly heave anyway, quite naturally, as the pressure of the overlying soil has been removed. This is not the major tree-based heave you are guarding against, just a very slight reactive heave.

I has the same issues: heave-risk and tree roots. Chose to have screw pile foundations to a concrete raft foundation. My raft is technically suspended but actually at ground level. The concrete sits atop the pile caps. I found the screw piles to be one of the easiest parts of my build so far. All of the experts involved were good. And I thought the cost was reasonable. Happy to provide further insights if helpful.

Good point. I have found other stainless steel screws to be quite soft and its easy to sheer off the head with an impact driver.

Good point @Temp. I do have a flask of creosote to hand. Already used it on the cut pieces on my fencing. I could dab some on the battens after using the planer. And fortunately its the good-old stuff that works that they don't sell anymore.

I've decided to use this fake-lead roofing product to protect the edge-insulation of my raft foundation. A convenient place to fix the fake-lead at the top is to the 50mm-timber soul-plate at the base of my timber frame. However, it occurred to me that the the sole plate is above the DPC. Would I be bypassing the DPC by doing this? Is this a big "No No" 😱? (I could just add a length of DPM behind the fake-lead just in case.) The fake lead is a Ubbink product (Ubiflex) …

What a story, @ToughButterCup! Inspiring and terrifying in equal measure 😄 But seriously, that gives me a good idea of what to expect. Thank you. What was your cladding? Timber planks? Did the fastidious approach show well in the final result?

Thanks guys! Does anybody glue their screws/bolts, belt & braces? I found these online. 120mm long, 8mm (size 16) thread, stainless steel. https://www.accu.co.uk/torx-countersunk-chipboard-screws/68993-SHKC-8-120-A2 What do you think?

I'd love some guidance from the great people here. Its about battens for external brick-slips cladding and how to get them flat and true. I've got most of the battens up and and all is going well (see photo). But inevitably I've found a couple of bulges in the racking board which I could try and flatten out. The battens are screwed not nailed so I can easily remove them, Is the best approach to pack the battens with plastic packers for the low spots. And use a cheap electric planer on the battens for the high spots. I can buy a planer from Screwfix for £35. Am I along the right lines? And I'm thinking to aim for a tolerance of 2mm at most. Is that OK?

I'd love some guidance from the great people here. Its about battens for external cladding and how to get them flat and true. I've got most of them up and and all is going well. But inevitably I've found a couple of bulges in the racking board which I think I should flatten. Is the best approach to pack the battens with plastic packers if they are a bit low. And if they are a bit high use a cheap electric planer, which I can buy from Screwfix, to take a few mm off them? I'm thinking to aim for a tolerance of 2mm at most. Is that enough? Am I along the right lines?

Could do with a bit of guidance from the great people here 🙂 How do you secure a bolts in to a timber stud for a canopy? I've bought my entrance-door canopy (to comply with Part M, stock photo below), which takes 3x bolts for each of its two brackets. I am wondering how to attach the canopy in to the timber stud to above my entrance door. I will be screwing into a triple stud of 45 x 240 structural timber. The fixings will go through the cladding (brackets > brick slips 15mm > backing board 10mm > batten 19mm > sheathing 9mm). I am thinking of stainless m8 boltsfor a strong fixing into the studwork: 120mm, countersunk stainless steel. Do I glue in the bolt in to the stud? Any help much appreciated.

I've PM'd you, @hotnuts21.