jayc89

Haven't done it yet, so can't really comment. The last concrete floor I had laid as a sub-floor, was quite rough and needed a bit of work to accept the PIR, so I wouldn't fancy that as my finished floor, but the guy who did my screed can also pour a 10mm flowing aggregate which I suspect will be much smoother.

Thanks exactly how I'm doing my next slab.

Any words of wisdom before I go down this route? @Nickfromwales @nod?

Reading through a few tiling forum pages, it seems like this might be typically used; - p5 deck - SBR primer - heating mat - SLC to cover the mat (approx 3mm) - decoupling membrane - tiles Does that sound sensible? Whilst the joists have been spec'd for less than 7mm deflection (4m span), I'm worried the SLC might be too brittle. Would a renovation screed like Mapei's 3240 be more suitable?

Jeez, very much on part with Grohe et al. Certainly don't want to bankrupt myself, but do want the best bang for buck. We bought a cheap bath/overhead shower suite from Victoria Plumb, or similar, when we first moved in, just to give the kids "something" to use and the flow rate is crap compared to the 30 year old Ideal Trevi SWMBO and I currently have in the ensuite.

I'd much prefer to use P5 as I already have the stuff, but I thought there were concerns around adhesive sticking to the chipboard? What would a typical build up look like if tiling onto caberdek? SBR primer, durabase/ditra, heating mat, tiles?

Need 2x concealed valves. 1 for the bath tub and 1 for the shower. Both need to have 2x outlets and ideally be 3/4" connections so I can run 22mm HEP, to the shower at least. Is there any material difference (other than price) in the Grohe/Hansgrohe mixer valves vs a cheaper brand? We both love our showers so it's an area we're willing to pay a little extra for, if there's a long term benefit from doing so.

Wardrobe/ensuite area. Posi joists are in place and I was planning on glueing and screwing 22mm P5 (Caberdek) boards to it. I want to lay an UFH mat and tile it, and have read that P5 isn't great for that. If I shouldn't use the P5 boards, what should I use instead; 22mm ply T&G?

I have loads of the bloody stuff. Bought 10mm rolls, foolishly assuming all our window openings would be uniform, should have known better in a 150 year old house! More by luck than good judgement, I ended up with a Brink Flair 325, which I think is your unit of choice these days. My current requirements are 184m3/h so I'm hoping it's well under-spec'd! Getting the thread back on track, sorry, any thoughts on this? It looks like these attenuators are out performing the Lindab ones, at a fraction of the cost - too good to be true? -

Isn't that basically the same as compriband?

Looking at the 160mm units, these seem to match or beat Lindab's noise reduction figures, and for a fraction of the price - https://www.ductstore.co.uk/acatalog/info-SIL50-600-160.html - what am I missing?

Looking for a 1800 x 900 linear former. I can only find 30mm true linear ones (i.e. ones that don't need tiles cut at angles, which we don't want) That might be OK though, because with a 30mm buildup, I'd have 22mm sub floor, 3mm UFH mat, 3mm decoupling mat, add a couple of mills of adhesive between those layers will be me up to 30mm.

Thanks, that's really useful to know as I was planning a wired set up too.

For a garage I'd be using concrete with rebar, tie your UFH pipes to the rebar, and forget about the screed. You can always turn those loops off at the manifold if you find they aren't needed/costing too much.

I plan to go with Sonas Amp and Sonance Speakers.

How much headspace can you afford to lose? 50mm PIR between the rafters and as thick as possible insulated PB under them.

No, but I need 150m of the stuff, so I'm seriously considering it.

Came across this, which is the cheapest I have found - https://naturalgreenheat.co.uk/product/90mm-semi-rigid-duct-50m/

How long's the span? How do you plan on finishing the floor? Screed? If so, what depth?

They're the exact ones I ordered!

Got it. I'll get some on order for next week. Cheers @joe90

Just read this on DIYKitchens; I assume fitting wall brackets to the base units is a good idea regardless?

Been in the house just over 2 years now. Pretty much everything we did in the first few months I've already re-done. It's been a hell of a learning curve.

Everything's done now, 40mm waste pipe goes behind toilet stud wall into the soil pipe behind W/C frame. Kitchen's on order and will be here next week inc. deeper worktops and filler panels. I could have potentially ran the waste pipe externally but was trying to avoid another penetration. (In hindsight it would have been a better idea)

Our base units in the utility room will be stood off the wall by 100mm to accommodate for washing machine/dryer hidden in a standard 600 deep cupboard and a service void behind to run drain pipes etc. I need to figure out a way to secure them whilst maintaining the 100mm offset. Do I just use some 47x100 regularised timber battens screwed through the wall on their ends? Presumably I'd just run these top and bottom across each unit?