jayc89

3x 50m rolls. Managed to make use of one running some plenums, had to hand ball the other two to get them back into something that resembles a coil - best workout I've had in years. Will tackle uncoiling them again next week.

Father in-law, thought he was helping and in his wisdom uncoiled 150m of 90mm semi-rigid ducting into our loft space (because they wouldn't fit through the loft hatch coiled). It's now like spaghetti junction up there. I need to somehow get them coiled back up again so I can start laying some runs, without kinking them in the process. Any tips of the trade before SWMBO and I tackle it this evening?

Like many on here, I used DIY Kitchens for our Utility Room, and it's been spot on, spot on quality and came in cheaper than Wren and Howdens (even after an employee discount had been applied). I plan on using them again for our Kitchen when I get to it.

What's the frame for? 2x1 is pretty flimsy, typically used as a batten more than anything else, so wouldn't make for anything rigid or capable of supporting any great deal of weight. 3x2 or 2x2 at a push, depending on the use case.

I'm laying some between the ensuite and kitchen, purely because we have an electric mat up there and we have an internal soil pipe running through the void so it'll act as both thermal and acoustic insulation. Won't be doing it anywhere else.

My mum worked at Howdens for 30+ years (well, Hygena, MFI etc before then), I got a quote for our Utility room through her friend who works out of one of their depots and they said we'd received the highest discount possible, it was still 20% more expensive than DIY Kitchens. Needless to say we went with the latter and the quality is spot on. We plan on using DIY Kitchens for our kitchen too.

Any suggestions for a 1800x900 former with a built in gradient so I don't need to diagonally cut any tiles?

Rookie mistake. I forgot that the verticals needed to be plumb on two axis, and the right hand side panel was leaning into the room by a couple of mill. Jacked that up and Bob’s your uncle!

Sides are plumb, top is level, although I didn't measure the diagonals. I'll take a pic tomorrow, I've banned myself from the room for the rest of the night!

Got to the point of fitting the larder unit's doors today. The right hand side doors are all 2mm lower than the left. Double checked the sides and top are all level, which they are. No amount of adjusting the hinges is working without the doors them rubbing on the end panels. At a bit of a loss as to why the doors are so out of whack. WTF am I doing wrong?

Never heard of a success story from people using Checkatrade, MyBuilder etc.

There's another single socket under one of the single base units (as we originally planned to have W/M and dryer either side of the sink, and which is why there's a chrome double socket at the back of what's now the tall unit - which I'll swap for a cheapo one before finishing off), so I'll run an extension lead across to the tall unit now instead.

Slowly getting there

Yeah, something like this; with a returning wall to the left of the tall unit, so I could secure the unit side to that too. The base units will stand-off the back wall by 100mm to allow for the W/M depth (using adjustable angle brackets to secure them to a length of 3x2 run across the rear wall which will also support the back of the worktop). I have some 6x2 offcuts from joists I ran a couple of weeks back, so could use those packed out to ~ 167mm height I need (150mm plinth + 17mm for tiles to get back up to FFL)

Certainly don't intent to sit the W/M on the plastic legs alone. Either build supports under the unit base to take the weight, or sit the W/M directly on the floor, but if I did the latter, I couldn't use the legs to raise and level the unit so would need to chock it up on wood, or similar and then figure out a way to attach the plinth across it. (As it's also the last unit in the row)

How would you typically do that? The unit's legs are on the base of the unit, which I need to 1) level the unit and 2) attach the plinth to, so I can't cut that for the W/M to sit on the floor. Sitting it on the floor would be far easier.

The platform's a good idea, I'll get one built in the morning.

Given the back will slide off, I'm thinking of supporting the bottom panel with some chocks of wood so the washing machine weight is transferred to the floor, slide the back panel out and add some supports for the washing machine's rear feet (which would otherwise hang out the back of the unit). There's a centre shelf which is (dry) secured with dowels that I think I'll need to relocate slightly higher so I can keep it for rigidity but raise it above the tumble dryer. (I did also think about lowering the shelf to just above the washing machine and put the tumbler on the shelf (again somehow supporting the rear legs, as that would mean I don't have to worry about stacking kits, but I have no easy way to support the weight of it that way.

Without a bottom, which is what our legs attach to, how did you level the tall unit?

Do you know when it was poured and/or how deep it is? Have you done a heat loss calc? I'm in an 1850s building and we fitted UFH, worked well before I installed a wall insulation, even better since I have.

Utility room units arrive tomorrow. We have a 800mm wide larder unit that I plan to modify to accept a stacked washing machine and tumble dryer. All units will be 100mm off the wall, so plenty of space to work with, just need to figure out what modifications need to be made to the unit to; 1) Support the weight of the stack 2) Be deep enough to accept the stack and be able to close the doors To support the weight, I was thinking I could either; 1) Use some 3x2 to build supports under the unit base 2) Make an opening in the unit base and sit the W/C directly on the slab For the depth I was planning on removing the back panel and securing the unit to a couple of lengths of timber secured vertically to the wall behind, the base unit to the side, and the stud wall to the other side. Any other options, recommendations, suggestions, hints, tips or tricks?

Take a look at a glasscrete floor. It uses foamed glass as the DPM and insulation layer and is far more forgiven in period properties, especially those without a DPC. It's typically finished with a NHL5 slab, which you can run your UFH pipes in, although a concrete slab would work just as well.

Surely someone on here grabbed it? That's been listed for nearly 2 months and then gets snapped up shortly after this post? Buildhub should charge marketing fees

Only really done the downstairs W/C so far; Plumb2U for Geberit frames The Cornwall Tile Company for Rak pans Wall and Floor for floor tiles (but more because they were the only place I could find what we were looking for) We were also quite limited on places to get the wall tiles and basin from as we wanted something quite specific. Ikea for a pretty basic cabinet that we're going to spray paint and use as the basin unit All first fix stuff came from my local BM as they were far cheaper for HEP stuff than anything I could find online.

Not much of a price difference!? They look the same.