SteamyTea

PU adhesives would be my choice, but I would want to do some test on them first. Steam, boiling water, freezing and UV light (what sunbeds are for).

Too true, it happened to me during the 1980's. Why I always have a wry smile when people talk of 'apprenticeships'. The skills I learnt as a tool maker are long dead, life moves on. Closing down industries does not cause long term unemployment if you look at the figures. It does cause short term pain, but most people find employment again. Not always at the same level, but better than the alternatives. Crossed my mind as I was driving to work. Less environmental damage too.

Something like that for each area would be very useful, could stop a lot of the 'game of caught you out'. Maybe a few standards that people could work to, and if you want something different, then you apply like you do now. Would have thought it would help everyone.

Fittings i.e. bathrooms, kitchens and build in wardrobes could save a bit. I am not sure of the quality of today's starter homes, but my house has a cheap bathroom and kitchen (probably 200 quid each in today's money) fitted in 1987. They are still both working as intended. I should be possible for major housebuilder to do the construction for between £600 and £800 per square meter. That is really quite a lot of money for a wall, bit of roof and some window. The house factory near me was gearing up to make almost 30 houses a day. They would leave the place with the windows in place and the walls plastered. They did not employ any trades at the factory as such (though some of them may be skilled people from other industries). A properly designed and build 'factory' house does not need much labour and the machinery is pretty basic, saws, nailers and plastering machines. Even a wire loom could be machine made and just pulled though on sight. Reduce the plumbing to a minimum would save a bit. Simple UFH rather than radiators, plastic pipe to hot taps (no more than 3 needed really). If a small house is designed 'open plan' (which I loathe), then there is a saving on doors and internal walls.

Build the house in a factory, transport to site and erect. The best way to ease finances on housing would be to have two parts to the mortgage rate. One based on the variable bank rate (very low at moment) and a second part based on property prices to earnings ratio. This second part would need to be very high at the moment. By raising the overall cost of borrowing, the price of housing will fall. Another financial area to be looked at could be the professional fees and the charges that local authorities charge for building. My local council has asked for comments on the CIL, a very short sighted charge in my opinion. I am tempted to reply saying something along the lines of "no upfront charges, build the houses and get the council tax instead". There will be a sweet spot to the rate that new housing is built and the rate that local infrastructure needs to be increased, but charging up front is not the way to get development done.

It looks OK, but as others have said, it all depends on what you were trying to achieve. Another way to look at the data is to plot the internal temperature against the external temperature, then time slice it to find the effects of solar gain. Then you can look at the temp differences and variations, standard deviations and generally play about with things when it is dark or daylight. One other thing that is really helpful is wind speed and direction. This can give an indication of cloud cover as we tend to have a warm, but cloudy SW wind that is quite fierce, compared to a cold, but clear NE wind that is quite gentle. Is your data collected as a text file, if so, you can post it up and I can have a look. You can make your own quite easily and cheaply with a few 1Wire sensors (or some DHT22s) and a Raspberry Pi. All really depends what you want to log and for what reason. There is usually a WeatherUnderground weather station nearby which you can grab data from as a text file. Some of the weather stations are pretty good bits of kit and have a solar power meter on them.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/domestic-cctv-using-cctv-systems-on-your-property/domestic-cctv-using-cctv-systems-on-your-property Now I have looked up that, going to find these IP cameras in a lightswitch

Use one 'ring' and it will be about 9A. So a cheap 2 kW generator will do it.

Would it not be easier and cheaper to have a back up generator to run the hob (I assume an induction one) from (200 quid and a crossover switch). I have a spare camping stove, have only needed to use it once in 12 years during one 4 hour power cut.

It is still worth buying a multimeter and an ampclamp, they can tell you a lot about what is happening in wires.

The problem with reducing regulations too much is that you run the risk of having dangerous homes. Though I agree that there probably many regulations, and the differing interpretations of them, that add very little. The main problem with the lack of affordable homes is low wages and insecure jobs. Not only do we pay young people about half of older people, we offer them almost no security. And the gap is getting worse. Don't expect loyalty form them. It may give a pointer to future property values though.

No, you also learn how to defend your mistakes, while charging the customer for the privilege. As for BSc's not taking thermal and physical science, with respect to buildings, into account. My Renewable Energy BSc did. Was a major part of it during the final year. I would think that most Architects could not quote the second law of thermodynamics, let alone the first one.

I have my own endoscope, should I take it with me? What is the best thing to have for supper the night before? Will they email me the video? Be one to compete with @Construction Channel

@Barney12I have had middle age firmly thrust upon me recently. The NHS has asked me to go for a bowel screening. Will I look like that cat?

Maybe I should have looked at the spreadsheet and realised it was about MVHR. But as I was unable to read it clearly, I did not bother.

Is re-heat the power you would need to raise the temperate up (from some arbitrary temperature), rather than just hold the temperature steady?

Me neither, where are they and what do they refer to? Watts is power, kWh is energy (or heat). Are you saying that it needs somewhere between 518 and 776W of power to hold the temperature where you want it (the 21/22°C). That would be 14.43 to 18.62 kWh/day.

To a certain extend, a duct is just a box with two open ends. It does not have to be round. There is a lot of wasted space inside a stud wall, see if you can use it. It is easy to make filters, that material is available online or from a manufacturer (I used to make air filters). The big issue is noise, both through the wall and via ductwork. Filters in the ducts help reduce this. I have a stud wall I would like to move one day to make the kitchen a bit larger and only loose a book shelf in the other room (I have a Kindle for books now). I thought I could put my storage heater in that wall and vent out either side. One 35 kWh storage heater is enough to heat my place. I could also pipe a bit up the stud wall, though the floor to each bedroom.

If you double the diameter of a round pipe, you quadruple the area, so you can run air though at a quarter of the speed for the same amount of air shifted. I would be tempted to make up my own MVHR (see GBF about that a few years back). They are really pretty basic things. There is no reason why you cannot make one with a polystyrene box, some silicone paper and a couple of fans.

Any good. http://www.buildstore.co.uk/finance/buildcare.html

Are your internal walls stud walls? If they are, can you pipe the room inlet down them towards the floor? For that matter, can you take the extract out of the top of the wall. Saves having holes in the ceiling. If you go oversize on the MVHR unit (and like an ASHP, you should as you get better efficiency) you could put in quite large vents in each room. That will keep the noise down and get rid of the risk of drafts. With a house your size (not so different from the downstairs of mine), have you though of using an oversize MVHR in conjunction with two small Air to Air heat pumps. They do heating and cooling usually and cost very little. A couple of these would easily heat and cool your place. https://www.debenhamsplus.com/p/865337/1000-btu-panasonic-powered-quick-connector-wall-mounted-inverter-air-conditioner-with-4-metres-pipe-kit-5-years-warranty?refsource=Deadwords&gclid=CMDDoOr78NACFUa6GwodrG0G3w

The thing with heat losses from DHW cylinders is that they are uncontrolled. So you may well end up with too much heat, and the associated temperature rise where you don't want it, or where it contributes nothing to the overall house temperature. Te worse case is that you may have to pump some air out the house to cool it. There is also the question 'What are you wanting to achieve with your DHW system?' Do you want permanent hot water Do you want lowest running costs Do you want lowest capital expenditure Do you want the simplest system I am sure there are other things, but you get the idea.

Yes, that is the theory for infinite space, and quite possibly for semi-infinite space. But a room is very far from semi-infinite, and as you point out, the temperate differences are very modest within a room. Limits have to be introduced to create a more realistic model, and those limits will be small. I also think that there is not enough consideration taken into account of the emitting frequency, which is really the energy level of the source, not all frequencies are equal (as my cataracts demonstrated). I am not sure of an easy way to test ideas for radiative contribution to heating. I do have a radiant heater in my bathroom (never switched it on). Maybe I could use that and a metal plate on the wall to see what is happening. Shall think about that when in the bath. I think that the real problem is that any radiative affect is swamped by convection and conductance and very hard to measure in a meaningful way.

Isn't the distances between the emitter and the receiver important when it comes to radiant energy transfer? If it wasn't the surface of the Earth would be a lot closer to the temperature of the Sun's surface.

Who is paying for all these great offers on using cards? I have a standard bank account (I can change to another but never change back), seems simple. No fees (unless overdrawn), pay money in, pay money out.