SteamyTea

That is it really. I am no fan of regulations, but they are needed. We can't have a free for all when it comes to installing micro-renewables, the local grid was just not designed to handle it. As an example, when I worked for a PV company, we installed 4 systems in the same street. That attracted the attention of the DNO, who warned us that we may be liable for a transformer upgrade. The odd thing is that if 4 different companies had installed the same system, then the DNO was liable for the upgrade. It is also not, as Jeremy points out, just to do with the electrical safety. There is mechanical safety as well. None of us want PV modules falling off roofs in a storm, or a leaky roof for that matter. There is also a certain need to protect ordinary customers. We tend to be out of the ordinary on here, and some if us are capable and qualified to do an install. But my neighbours aren't, so I don't want them thinking they can jump about on the roof, with a drill, fitting a PV system.

Leave your endoscope in there pointing at the lights. Then view on the screen. Or a PiZero with a a camera attached and view on the phone/tablet.

Apart from cleaning any heat sin and vents, what is there to service?

Needs a correction to 0.022 W/m.K This foil board, is that similar to multifoil?

As the plot is already owned by a family member, it is not going anywhere, so no real hurry to build on it. You could, for a laugh, find a suitable, and cheap house, and refurbish it. Or you could wait and see if the value of property crashes and buy up a bargain, cash is king here.

By the time you are ready to start you will have 3 years worth of accounts, probably more.

Like this guy, he uses school kids to catch the sparks. 13:30 in

Probably best to think of these showrooms as art galleries, where the supplier is paying for room space.

How much does an oil tank cost to install from scratch? Also how much room does it take up. (how long is that piece string)

If you are looking purely at a price comparison over a fixed period of time, then an oil burner is possibly the cheapest. That price comparison would vary depending on where in the world you are, your overall energy needs and cost of servicing.

I think I have only had two deliveries from Yodel, both disasters that forced me to have to drive to Truro. They are a delivery company that should not exist.

Few bungalows like that near me, they usually get 'developed' into 2 semi-detatched 3 bed places. But then, my end of the West Country is not the idyllic part that most people think.

Still, it is a nice morning.

Did you offer him a cuppa? I did when I had my shed delivered at about that time.

I had a similar issue with a job. Two identical, large pneumatic couplings. One was a straight though, the other had a hole on the side. The one without the hole cost more, no matter which way I calculated it. Came down to there being more material overall and more labour involved. Charged the customer more money for the cheaper one mind.

well said.

Not how I would do it. Depends on which type of resin you use. You don't have to lay the mat up to each edge. In fact I would not attempt to do that. I would stagger the layers anyway, then same with any joining strips. That way, there would be less of a thickness difference. I would also apply the flow coat/top coat/glaze to 95% of the already laminated area. This top coat is what really keeps the moisture out and is really the hardest to apply properly.

The 'newer' low styrene emission resins that came out about 30 years ago were a revelation. Could abuse them something rotten and seemingly get away with it. My old boss came to work for me on a large project when I was working on site for a couple of months. To save a few quid for the customer he started to use an old, but cheaper polyester resin. The parts lasted a few days in service. Now if anyone wants to buy an osmosis free, high temperature resin system, I still have it for sale. Not cheap, but cheaper than the alternatives. I am still amazed that no one has cottoned on to what I did, especial the boat builders. It did cost me a contract to make wind turbine blades for one of the few large turbine manufacturers back in the early 90's. They are not about anymore.

I think this is the difference between a DIY bodge and a professional service. But I may be biased as I worked in the composite industry for 25 years or so. I still itch.

It would work. A self-etching resin would make the bond just as strong. Most hand layup composites are done in multiple stages to get the desired thickness to avoiding temperature buildup, shrinkage and unevenness.

I did. But more thee material jamming between the disk and the guard. I have used angle grinders for decades and only twice 'sanded' the side of a finger. I am not sure what you are trying to cut. Are you cutting a screw/bolt from between two bit of wood i.e. stick the blade in the gap ad cut the bolt. Or are you trying to just knock the top off the screw and them pull the timber apart?

Under catalysing is a cardinal sin in the composite industry. You can get hardeners that have different 'speeds' so that you still get full polymer crosslinking. If you have not already fitted the roofing sheets, you could coat them in GRP before fitting. That way you can do it inside and only have a few joints to seal site. I have never understood why it is done totally onsite, that is just making an easy job difficult.

Which is odd as the world is awash with investment capital. ThisIsMoney had a bit about British Gypsum/BPB shortage. Never bothered to read it.

How airtight is your house to start with? If it is poor, then just ventilate/MVHR where you need to. If it is good, then maybe a combination of a central MVHR and some single rooms may do it.

Let the disk get too small and whatever is being cut can get jammed between the disk and the guard.