SteamyTea

Certainly did. Best decision I ever made. Been on my own for over 40 years. When I shut my door, the world can vanish. Never understood people that have to have others around the house.

Is there any difference in performance depending on wind direction?

Can't really help. But thought I would point out that your area is more than the footprint of my house. So to me a grand seems a bit low.

Not just the cost and time. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Time-Eat-Dog-Sustainable-Living/dp/0500287902

Isn't the real problem that we still have cavities?

Yes it could as it would inhibit both the condensing and the evaporation phases. This is how a heat pump works. But look at the simple things first. Is your UFH fluid full of crud?

That is what system design is all about though; it is not individual component design. The biggest part of the problem is that we have got used to pretty awful heating design systems. This is probably because we retrofitted to existing housing stock in the 60's, 70's and 80's. The skill sets used to do this are very different from what is now needed, but plumbing technicians are not trained to be thermal engineers, nor should they be. So in my opinion, there needs to be 2 parts to designing a heating system: The sizing The plumbing The sizing may also include upgrading the thermal envelope, the plumbing is working out the best route for the pipework and the best type of emitters. Trouble is, for many installations, neither happens properly. Mainly because people are unwilling to pay. There are not many things in life that are worth paying a premium for, you don't really get better utility value from a BMW than you do from a Ford, but a properly designed heating system is one exception that you do. Now I am not saying that MCS installations are the premium system to go with, but at least, on paper, they have a system that covers the design aspect, even if it is not followed. How many people do we get on here in winter saying that their systems are not working, but when asked about heat loss calculations, they don't have a clue what we are talking about. Too many.

The ASHP is only part of the system. I think this is where confusion comes in. Take UFH as a thermal distribution element. It is a simple component, a pipe loop, usually set in concrete, with warm water passed though it. Then the problems start. It has to be designed so that the power enters the room, not heat up the ground under the building. It has to be designed to deliver the correct power 99% of the time, so different spacing between pipes and different thicknesses of concrete it is set in. There will be some situations where the system is used incorrectly, we have all read about the self inflicted problems Zoot created for himself, and there will be times, as you mention, where part of the system is fine, but other parts are not. This may be as simple as the controller not set up correctly. It may also be necessary to have a combination of thermal emitters in the same room i.e. UFH and a fan assisted radiator. I may have found a solution to fit a wet heating system into my small house without seeing horrible pipework on the surface. Going to have a chat with one of our regular customers who has just done his MCS course and see if he thinks it is viable. Just need to find a physically small, inverter, ASHP that he can buy for me at a reasonable price. Then work out where the buffer tank is going to go.

Can you turn off autocorrect?

You mean an inadequately sized system.

You need to add the R-Values of all the wall components together, then take the inverse and see what it is. How do you work out the R-value of a structure? The R-value of a structure can be worked out by adding up the R-value of each individual component that offers a solid, consistent layer in the structure. Like this rudimentary ‘wall’ example below, the constituent parts come together to make the total R-value.

And if the same person had done it with lime, it would have been a double disaster. Don't mix up bad workmanship with choice of materials.

If you want your render to never dry properly, then choose lime. Don't fall for all that nonsense about it being breathable and flexible. You can mix ordinary Portland based cement to give you the same properties.

Was my thinking to.

Get a basic physics book. http://www.mhtl.uwaterloo.ca/courses/ece309_mechatronics/lectures/pdffiles/achall_web.pdf http://www.pgccphy.net/1030/phy1030.pdf And this one is useful: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Why-Buildings-Fall-Down-Structures/dp/039331152X Download the Building Regs: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/901517/Manual_to_building_regs_-_July_2020.pdf https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/899279/Single_stitched_together_pdf_of_all_ADs__Jun20_.pdf Learn SI units, and then always use them, without exception. Learn basic algebra, statistics and geometry. Get used to spreadsheets. Make use of this website. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ This is useful for terminology. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Penguin-Dictionary-Building-Reference-Books/dp/014051239X

Is it the line/service into the house, rather than the routers?

Do you think he may be after your place at a knocked down price?

Offer to buy their place, or at least the land that they want to develop. Then you have control over it.

I did a modelling study a few years back and found that it was better, for grid stability and reducing the large local losses, to just fit houses with small, <1 kWh, 3 kW power, batteries and inverters. I think the major problem with a PV/battery storage system is that the UK has clearly defined seasons due to our latitude. PV with battery storage may work well below the 'sunshine belt' sub 40° latitude (draw a line around the world that passes though Toronto and Madrid and that is the line that gives peak, land based, solar production), just not really viable in the UK. Even that large Tesla battery storage in Victoria, Australia, is for short term grid stability, not long term energy storage. If you really want to store PV energy, stick it in a water cylinder. Any left over can go into the grid and help lower all our emissions. All the incentives are about lowering emissions, not individuals personally benefitting financially. If you want to financially benefit from lower emissions, use less energy in everything you do. For the last half hour my house has been drawing 30W. The heating has been off since Sunday. It is 20.7° where I am sitting. And my car is doing 53 MPG, which is 1.2 kWh/mile, or about 3 times what a BEV uses, but still pretty good for 1.6 tonnes of steel. This gives me a dilemma. Fitting a new ASHP system will cost about the same as buying a second hand BEV. My house uses around 5 MWh/year, my car about 30 MWh/year. I will be financially better off getting a newer car, and the environment will benefit as well. And I may get my first car with a warning when the windshield washer bottle is getting low, and an mp3 player.

I think that is how they are meant to be earthed, i.e. not earthed. https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2016/61-summer-2016/electrical-installations-in-caravancamping-parks-caravans-and-motor-caravans/

Comes as no surprise that the price goes up with demand, it would be really odd i it went the other way. Prices tend get closer to the mean price, that is the idea of offering variable pricing. It is not being offered to be nice for the end consumer, it is all about the generation side becoming more efficient.

Caravans are earthed differently to houses. Could that be an issue?

It is not the timber, it is the treatment used on it. Don't burn treated timber. The law is there for a reasons, don't think you are a better research scientist than the ones that did the research.

It is illegal to burn waste timber that has been treated.

There did seem an unusual amount of rain this winter. But gorse fires still happened.