SteamyTea

Yes. When I went there, I did not notice the modules on his roof, which was strange as I knew they were there, and I was involved in the business at the time.

Welcome. I have no opinion of roofing tiles. But if you are up there doing the work, why not fit integrated PV, it is a similar price to fitting some tiles.

It uses the https://www.segen.co.uk/gse/ system. Shop about and the panels (not the modules) are about 30 quid each. (it is a shame that Jeremy built in some shading)

Just remembered, a guy I know, researched some plasterboard replacements that used phase change waxes to store energy. He fell for the marketing bluff (he was an ex marketing bloke), but when we all looked at the technical limitations, it was not so impressive as you are basically stuck with the one temperature range of about 3K. You could make boards with variable ranges, in layers to increase that to say 10K, which may be useful. Or you could go back in time and put a water tank in your loft and let the ambient air increase the temperature, a tank with a larger surface area to volume ratio would heat up easier. Here is what has happened to mine the last few months.

Yes, whoops, mean °C That is not a bad idea, especially now we have low power LED lights. I would design it as a 230V system though and just run it off a cheap inverter, then it can use standard switch gear, cabling and installation methods, and easily be wired into a consumer unit if needed.

Could call it a Sunamp.

Not really a lot when you consider the size of a house. The efficiency of thermal generation plants is, at best, about 60%, but they operate at such a high temperature that it is not comparable, unless you want a house that is at 300°C. Lithium Ion batteries are now fitted to cars, and they are coming in at about £100/kWh, not that expensive, just got to get the same mass production into home products, like the Powerwall. There are a lot of costs when making a home system that are little to do with the battery costs i.e. a useful sized inverter, legislative compliance, packaging etc.

Just read the abstract of that Swedish paper (think I quoted ones), shows how little energy a house stores in reality. £1000 will easily by a battery and some solar panels. It is basically shows what many of us already know, regardless of the material or mass of those materials, a house does not store much. These days ventilation losses tend to dominated.

I may come back to this when I am not so tired. But I think what you have done is calculated the thermal inertia figure.

I have a pair of trousers that stick to them both. No idea what is special in them, maybe @pocster knows.

Is that because of all the tea breaks waiting for the plumbers to turn up and finish?

Do a lot of searching and reading, on here and your problems will be solved. You can use Google's site: prefix as I don't find the built in search that good. You will even find a topic on searching. The main thing to keep in mind is that prices vary a lot. So you can save lots of cash by buying sensibly. A decent HP heating system will be on a lot, but not always heating. A gas or oil system does not work in the same fashion, it over heats, then over cools, to a greater degree than a HP based system. The actual energy losses from the building will be the same over a period of time, just that every time it fires up, and shut down, the efficiency takes a big hit. It is like my driving, usually get low 50 MPG from my car, but this week, with all the holiday traffic about I get mid 40s, because I have to keep stopping and starting as Emmets find Cornish roundabouts and left hand turns different than the rest of the country for some reason. They are the place to suddenly stop and point at St. Michael's Mount, or a seagull, and argue with the kids.

Welcome. Went to university in Dorset and had a holiday cottage in Weymouth for a few years. What part are you in? Dorset has the worse drivers in the country, and they are all down here this week.

Combination of immersion heater and a heat pump. You will very really get enough power, for long enough, from any micro renewables to purely choose just one system if DHW heating, so you have to play the numbers games. An immersion heater can be quickly switched on and off as generation is forthcoming, but only has a CoP of 1. A heat pump does not like short cycling, and has a minimum startup current demand, so it is more usual to time it to come one during times of greatest likely PV generation, usually between 10AM and 2 PM GMT (thus does depend on solar array orientation). PV generated power will go to the nearest and biggest load first, so even if there is not enough PV power to fully satisfy the HP current draw, it will contribute to it without intervention. And a well set up system should give you a CoP if 2.5 to 3. The thing with micro generation us to not be greedy about it i.e. think that for the cost it should supply all the power, all the time. And regarding the thermal store's thermal losses, just like a house, and especially UFH, you need to insulate properly. The bigger the temperature difference, the thicker the insulation has to be. There is no magic to be found here, though people will try to sell you some.

My journey to work is going to have to be in escorted convoy apparently. We have not heard too much more this last week. Still, I can write slogans on the side of the car.

I prefer sleeping at the moment. 400,000 extra people in Cornwall this week, I and have fed at 1000 if them.

Not sure what that is, sounds like dynamic loads. Being single and living on my own, I have no understand about what happens when I sleep, other than, I cease to exist.

Yes, I forgot the welcome as well. Where about in the country are you? Not sure Mike's comment about 'people like us' is good or bad.

Don't tank track spread the load, this is partly why they can traverse rougher ground than wheeled vehicles (there are other reasons as well).

Slate tiles are probably the most expensive you can get, roof integrated modules may be cheaper than normal roofing. Hunt around on here and you will find a few threads about them. No real point going lower than 0.1W.m-2.K-1 in reality, airtightness is very important though. You have to make sure that cold outside air cannot bypass the insulation. If you read the the term Far Infra Red, you know it is snake oil. Infra Red heating is a specialist product and not designed for housing, it only works within line of sight, may as well fit a fan heater, which costs a tenner. That is just down to sizing a heating system correctly and ventilating it. You have not mentioned ventilation, have you looked into MVHR? You will need some sort of ventilation in an airtight house. She is right, for so many reasons, and it will not be long till they are outlawed I suspect. Sort it with the space heating, an ASHP can do both. Yes, if designed and installed right. The devil is in the detail.

I think they want to take advantage of excess PV generation. No you are not, 10 kWh/day would be correct. I used about 8 kWh/day when I had a lodger, now between 6 and 8 kWh/day. Though this is going to go up as I have a second job, so more uniform to wash.

Do you mean 32 kWh/m2.a ? If you have to re-roof, then consider roof integrated PV, about the same price as slates. You have to design in for an ASHP at this stage. MVHR relies on very good airtightness results >2.5 ACH is often quoted.

PV is worth having, can be installed at build time for about the same price as traditional roofing. Make sure the house orientation is suitable, and no shading, so get rid of that porch roof. Ditch the idea of a green roof, that just shrieks "leaks" to me. Fine on the garden shed, not on a house roof. Triple glaze, people are interested in the triple bit, not the U-Value, so they do not need to cost more. UFH is not anything new, fitted to a lot of mass produced places now. Just up the amount of insulation under it, more than BR specify, you have a larger delta temperature. ASHP definitely, but make sure that there is room for a decent sized buffer tank and cylinder. Don't skimp on the power output, oversize by at least 30%. Don't skimp on insulation, and make sure airtightness is as good as it possibly can be, AT TIME OF BUILD. As for looks, drive around your area and see what high priced places look like. As for rooms inside, I like separate rooms, hate it when a room becomes a corridor (which I have and it stops me using the room, and I live on my own). Make sure all bedrooms can take double beds. As for 'connected houses' don't bother, with a ASHP/UFH combo, there is no need to adjust it when away for a few days, same with lights. Who really feels the need to turn lights on and off, and if left on, they only burn a handful of watts these days. No more 25W downlighters in a small kitchen (have seen some people fit 40 of them in in a 4m by 3m kitchen FFS). Decent garage/shed that can be an office will appeal at the moment, tough i suspect that people will be flocking back to offices in the not to distant future.

I would have thought it would act as normal, temperature is temperature. The only thing I can think of is when the heater is on, and a little time after, the base of the water column will be hotter than normal. This may affect the flow temperature to the UFH, but probably not a serious issue. Connect it up and fire it up, be interesting to see what it does.

Does it not work by generating vortices and eddy currents as well as purely blocking? Bernoulli principle and all that.