SteamyTea

Depends on the area and how it affects the overall U-Value. While the differences look large on the face of it, the price difference does look very large. You can improve other areas to compensate i.e. extra wall insulation on a North wall, better airtightness, better heating system. Or just do a bit more shopping around.

Very rough calculation, with 3 ACH and an overall U-Value of 0.2 W/m².K, works out at about 0.1 kW/K. Assuming you can get 100W/m out of the skirting radiator, you should be able to keep the place stable until it is 10⁰C below the temp you normally turn the heating on. I usually turn my heating on when it is 10⁰C mean outside temperature. I have used 20 W/K for all the non air change loss, and 37 W/K @1 ACH for air loss. IF you have less losses, or the radiators emit more, then you can go lower. (But I have had a tough day and worked this out in my head as I sat in traffic, (expletive deleted)ing G7)

Still got some in my NE facing rear garden that are 34 years old.

No. IF/THEN

Buy a picture frame of me, glue one in place, then take it to an art show. At least I will get a tenner, plus package and postage.

A heat pipe is like a diode. Not sure what an inductive would be. Shall ponder that as I wander about. Basically something that can oscillate with minimum losses I think.

I think if you expand all the derived units you send up with the golden three if kg, m and s, in the same places. Newton's Law of Cooling is the same as discharging a capacitor. Population growth formula are the same as charging up a capacitor or battery. e = 1+1/1!+1/2!+1/3!+1/4!.... A harmonic series.

Best to, you don't want to get done for contamination. We all know what happened to Brian Aldridge and he was only just down the road from you.

Can GIMP or Inkscape convert PDFs to CAD formats. Not every looked, but they are free.

Not sure you should do either of them, not even sure if it is legal to do so, especially as you are so close to a waterway.

Here is the proper way to do it, not saying it is easier. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_equation Right at the start, when you right dT/dt are you really meaning a differential equation? If so, it should be δT/δt, and you would have to solve the first order differential equation and then substitute the number back in. Or divide a small change by another small change, which should be ΔT/Δt and this is an ordinary equation.

Yes. When I went there, I did not notice the modules on his roof, which was strange as I knew they were there, and I was involved in the business at the time.

Welcome. I have no opinion of roofing tiles. But if you are up there doing the work, why not fit integrated PV, it is a similar price to fitting some tiles.

It uses the https://www.segen.co.uk/gse/ system. Shop about and the panels (not the modules) are about 30 quid each. (it is a shame that Jeremy built in some shading)

Just remembered, a guy I know, researched some plasterboard replacements that used phase change waxes to store energy. He fell for the marketing bluff (he was an ex marketing bloke), but when we all looked at the technical limitations, it was not so impressive as you are basically stuck with the one temperature range of about 3K. You could make boards with variable ranges, in layers to increase that to say 10K, which may be useful. Or you could go back in time and put a water tank in your loft and let the ambient air increase the temperature, a tank with a larger surface area to volume ratio would heat up easier. Here is what has happened to mine the last few months.

Yes, whoops, mean °C That is not a bad idea, especially now we have low power LED lights. I would design it as a 230V system though and just run it off a cheap inverter, then it can use standard switch gear, cabling and installation methods, and easily be wired into a consumer unit if needed.

Could call it a Sunamp.

Not really a lot when you consider the size of a house. The efficiency of thermal generation plants is, at best, about 60%, but they operate at such a high temperature that it is not comparable, unless you want a house that is at 300°C. Lithium Ion batteries are now fitted to cars, and they are coming in at about £100/kWh, not that expensive, just got to get the same mass production into home products, like the Powerwall. There are a lot of costs when making a home system that are little to do with the battery costs i.e. a useful sized inverter, legislative compliance, packaging etc.

Just read the abstract of that Swedish paper (think I quoted ones), shows how little energy a house stores in reality. £1000 will easily by a battery and some solar panels. It is basically shows what many of us already know, regardless of the material or mass of those materials, a house does not store much. These days ventilation losses tend to dominated.

I may come back to this when I am not so tired. But I think what you have done is calculated the thermal inertia figure.

I have a pair of trousers that stick to them both. No idea what is special in them, maybe @pocster knows.

Is that because of all the tea breaks waiting for the plumbers to turn up and finish?

Do a lot of searching and reading, on here and your problems will be solved. You can use Google's site: prefix as I don't find the built in search that good. You will even find a topic on searching. The main thing to keep in mind is that prices vary a lot. So you can save lots of cash by buying sensibly. A decent HP heating system will be on a lot, but not always heating. A gas or oil system does not work in the same fashion, it over heats, then over cools, to a greater degree than a HP based system. The actual energy losses from the building will be the same over a period of time, just that every time it fires up, and shut down, the efficiency takes a big hit. It is like my driving, usually get low 50 MPG from my car, but this week, with all the holiday traffic about I get mid 40s, because I have to keep stopping and starting as Emmets find Cornish roundabouts and left hand turns different than the rest of the country for some reason. They are the place to suddenly stop and point at St. Michael's Mount, or a seagull, and argue with the kids.

Welcome. Went to university in Dorset and had a holiday cottage in Weymouth for a few years. What part are you in? Dorset has the worse drivers in the country, and they are all down here this week.

Combination of immersion heater and a heat pump. You will very really get enough power, for long enough, from any micro renewables to purely choose just one system if DHW heating, so you have to play the numbers games. An immersion heater can be quickly switched on and off as generation is forthcoming, but only has a CoP of 1. A heat pump does not like short cycling, and has a minimum startup current demand, so it is more usual to time it to come one during times of greatest likely PV generation, usually between 10AM and 2 PM GMT (thus does depend on solar array orientation). PV generated power will go to the nearest and biggest load first, so even if there is not enough PV power to fully satisfy the HP current draw, it will contribute to it without intervention. And a well set up system should give you a CoP if 2.5 to 3. The thing with micro generation us to not be greedy about it i.e. think that for the cost it should supply all the power, all the time. And regarding the thermal store's thermal losses, just like a house, and especially UFH, you need to insulate properly. The bigger the temperature difference, the thicker the insulation has to be. There is no magic to be found here, though people will try to sell you some.