SteamyTea

I misread, thought it was neither, not either. Nothing wrong with E-W split, a slight drop in overall yield compared to optimum angles, but if you are adding storage, less of an issue. Run it through PVGIS.

You would need planning permission to put more than, I think 9m² on the ground. If your roof is neither East or West facing, where does it face, downwards? You could just fit regular modules, they are a metre wide, so probably not much of a gap at either side.

Pay by credit card and get some protection from section 75.

Sell them, they are in short supply.

So it only blows the roof off, rather than take out a wall, followed by the next one. In a small house like mine, putting all the gubbins in the loft would be the sensible thing to do. An extra square metre of storage would help. And there would be plenty of room to add half a metre of, easily removable, insulation around it. Has to be cheaper than an airing cupboard.

Have you looked into fitting roof integrated PV. Similar price to some roof coverings.

Just highlights the relatively small losses though. Insulation will stop it. Do you have a problem with lofts, you always suggest that no waterwork is out in them. To a lot of people a loft is dead space.

Just thinking about it a bit more. In a few short years, will we be charging at home on even, say a 15 to 30 kW charger. We already have 250 kW public charging, 500 kW is developed, so we will just fill up as we do now.

We all know people that get worried when the fuel gauge goes below half. I think most people will charge every day, just in case. I know I would. It would still take an hour and a half to put 10 kWh into the battery. That takes about 10 seconds in a normal car.

I am not so sure about that. It is the power that is important here, not the energy. If both get plugged in around the same time, then the power is doubled. I would have thought that this is a known problem and the charging points would adapt which car gets energy, and when. Not the same as plugging both into a wall socket.

I don't think that planning is too specific on construction type, more looks and size. You can make any build method look like any other, except a glass monolith. The only way to get a price is to sit down, work out the components and price to fit them, and add them all up. There is no magic formula, it is about the legwork.

A normal system, as we think of them, are basically for ventilation. But if you double the diameter of the pipework, you can, for the same air speeds, transfer 4 times the energy. That may be a useful amount. Note that doubling the pipe diameter is not the same as running two pipes off the same diameter.

Keep the room ventilated via the MVHR and the towels will dry quickly, and you will recover a fair slice of the latent heat as the water condensed in the unit.

One of many sites that tracks prices. https://www.indexmundi.com/commodities/

Over 27 years since I got rid of mine. The pictures are better on radio.

Can glazed area disproportionally affect which frequencies get though, so two smaller windows, matching the area of one, may reduce annoying noise transmission? Reflectance and resonance and all that, which may make a film effective. With coastal defences, they have stopped building curved walls and now build a barrier with rocks of many sizes and shapes. This randomness allows more energy dissipation than a fixed design, works well and is cheaper. https://glasstime.guardianglass.com/en/glass-solutions/sound-control/acoustic-performance-glazing

The number of times a day is irrelevant as it effectively only looses energy when there is no call for heat and a well set up system will be running most of the time. It will increase the surface area of the whole system slightly, which will increase the power emitted (Nicks point about putting it somewhere useful). An ASHP is more affected by relative humidity, cold dry air is still good for extracting energy. Don't use the centigrade scale, use the kelvin one to work out the percentage differences to get the real answer. I think the losses are too small to worry about, but if it is in the loft, you can build an insulated box around it.

This is an interesting issue. If the buffer stores 2 kWh of useful energy, that may only be 0.6 kWh of input energy. Loosing 20% of that will only be 0.12 kWh of energy. Less than turning on a kettle for 3 minutes.

"number skills" is often a problem with language (multiply, times, product, by) and how we mix units, and terminology, between industries (metre, decimetre, centimetre, millimetre). Why we don't stick to SI units I do not know, even on here people will talk about square feet, feet square, Kw/H, no wonder people get confused. Then we have the physics terminology, weight, mass, volume, density, temperature, energy, power, charge etc. Each of them can, correctly, be expressed in different units.

Take some pictures and post them up, then people will give 100 different opinions on the best way of fixing it.

How about getting a job with Building Control. Would learn all the ins and outs, then it would become easy to build/convert your own places. or the Planning Office, if he really wants to be hated.

Many of these type of things are companies that are selling. I once went for a position as a trainer (IT). Had to do a full scheme of work and deliver one lesson from it. At the debrief was told that I had not reached their expectations, then they tried to sell me training. He could sign up here and go to all the many topics that are discussed, and as most of us are not builders, he will get a different perspective on it.

Is it properly accredited and nationally recognised. If not, best avoided.

All joking apart about the 'he can help on my site'. Why not make that a reality, there must be half a dozen people on here who are building near you and can use a pair of hands. Makes the first qualification easy, the site safety certificate.

So did I, it don't show now. If the school thing bothers him, all he has to say is 'i had no choice'. What sort of City Job has he got at the moment? I also found returning to college was successful if I was away from my friends and family. I did an engineering (toolmaking) apprenticeship, then went off to university in Dorset. Was one of the best experiences of my life at 21. Someone else asked a similar question a while back about the best academic route for builders. I suggest studying Law, Physics and something else, may have been bookkeeping, or sandwich making.