SteamyTea

You don't need my help. Gaudi had a cool house that was all wonky. Just remember how he met his end.

Going to try and get this thread locked for 24 hours, and then never unlocked. I have found out how to make my tool 12 inches long. Fold it in half.

Helps if you have some flooding as well. London seems to get more of it than Cornwall.

You are using the wrong tool to check it.

Narrow boats have very small galley kitchens. Most people, in my opinion, go overboard with their kitchens in their homes (no idea what your house kitchen is like). Si my question is, assuming you did not eat 'boy scout' tinned beans and sausages, did the boat food taste worse than the home food?

UFH runs at a higher temperature than ambient, and you can treat the ground as an infinite heat sink, with a mean heating season temperature of about 8°C. You also have a lot of floor area. Remember that U-Value is W/m2K, so a lot of area at a higher temperature means greater power going though it. So imagine a wall of 10 m2 and an inside air temperature of 20°C and an outside air temperature of 2°C, if the U-Value is 0.15 W/m2K, the losses will be 27W. Now imagine a 10m2 bit of floor, that is at 30°C and the ground is at 8°, with the same U-Value, the losses will be 33W.

There is no real advantage site an ASHP in sunlight, they are not solar panels. They use the air, which does not change much in temperature, especially when it is drawn in by the fan.

As long as it is not totally overgrown, and you have a metre and half diameter circle around it, it should not be a problem. Any air that is cooled is soon dispersed, and it only comes out a little bit lower than ambient. I would be more concerned about losses though the pipe runs, as well as electrical losses depending on cable sizing and length. A cubic metre of air has a mass of about 1.25 kg, and a specific heat capacity of around 1 kJ/kg.K, which is 0.0002778 kWh. So if that cubic metre of air is cooled by 5K (or °C), you get 0.00173625 kWh of energy. To get a kWh out of that air, you need to shift 575.95 kg of air, or about 720 cubic metres. Sounds a lot, but is not in reality. About a third of what my car sucks in though the air intake in my car when I am doing 70 MPH.

It is usual to have flexible pipes from the monobloc, the manufacturer specifies the length of them. This is to stop vibration from travelling along solid pipework. So it is usual to fit them in a service channel/duct. Yes.

Can you double that thickness?

Good suppliers/installers yes. I would expect them to spend several hours on doing a detailed heat loss analysis, which would include daily weather data from your nearest Met Office station. You can do a lot of the calculations yourself, they are dull and boring to do, but not actually that difficult. The MCS site used to have the methodology, that every installer was meant to apply, on it. It is pretty good. Regarding your UFH, how much insulation, and what type, are you fitting under it?

Almost. High humidity can cause frosting up of the units, but they are designed to cope with this. The efficiency drop in cold weather is more to do with the higher water temperatures people want, rather than the lower amount of energy 'in the air'. You get a quirk where the efficiency can seem to go very low if you calculate using the celsius or fahrenheit scale, but that, magically, vanishes when you change to the kelvin scale. WOW, you must have spent hours designing your gas system to be that good. Oh, hang on a second, you made that up.

where? Yes, I would like to know where all the reports of these failing ASHPs is.

Penzance is 300 miles from London as well, Hastings is what, 65miles.

It is just @Dave Jones trolling again.

It is heading your way now, should have pasted me by morning. What a difference from last week.

Cast iron has a SHC of 0.46 kJ/kg.°C Water has a SHC of 4.18 kJ/kg.°C So it takes almost 10 times as long for any particular heat input i.e. 10 kW, to heat water. Same for cooling down.

There are basically two types of ASHPs. Fixed Speed/Fixed Output Variable Speed/Variable Output (inverter driven) A fixed speed is like having a car that only runs at maximum revs, all the time power is needed, then it shuts down. An inverter driven one can work at full speed if needed, but is usually working at a 'lower speed'. If the system is designed correctly, it will very really work at more than about 70% capacity. As the noisy bit is generally the air fan, shifting less air reduces noise. It may seem counter intuitive to oversize a heating system, but with HPs this is the norm, just like it is with cars.

Apart from legislation (possible), why bother with a thermal mixer at all? Put your hand under the shower, if it is too hot, turn it down.

What make and model was it and what sort of power was it delivering when you viewed it?

Glad you read it, saves me bothering.

I am sure you can get one made, but you can always use a plate heat exchangers and an extra pump.

If you swap a 60W light bulb for a 10W LED one, you are reducing the power draw to 16%, call it 20% to allow for naff transformers. Now say you had 30 60W bulbs, that would be, if they are all on together, 1.8 kW, but the LED will be 0.3 kW a 1.5 kW difference, or about half the power a kettle draws. Keep things in perspective. If is a rare day you need anything like that sort of power, anywhere. Unless you like burning everything. I have never understood why people by high power hobs, the skill is in not burning your tea. If you need to boil a large pan of water fast, use the kettle, they are better at boiling water.

And quite possibly a pure sinewave, so a more expensive inverter. Like a PV system, a wind turbine will only give the rated output when the conditions are right i.e. 800W, direct beam for solar, 20 m/s windspeed for a turbine (or whatever the production curve is). This is why battery storage is used, it can soak up all the smaller generation packets and store them for later. So a larger battery would be needed ideally. It eventually get to the point where thermal storage becomes cheaper i.e. in water, and then just pump that about.

Yes, or hotter. If ceiling mounted radiant heating worked, we would all be doing it. There is also the distance from the radiant source to take into account, though at a couple if metres, this is not generally significant, and the object you are trying to heat, which may have an exposed surface area many times smaller than the emitter. Also, humans breath, so regardless of the person's surface temperature, if they are breathing in cold air, they will be cooling.