SteamyTea

Down here and I am sure it is the same in many places, there is a 3rd model. Completely neglected prooerties, rented out but absent landlords, for desperate tenants. Usually the criminal classes.

Or just use table lamps.

Careful, it is more complicated than that. The air does not really 'hold' the water. It is the kinetic energy, of all the molecules in the completely fluid mixture that does work on each and every other molecule including the water molecules. Juggling would be a better term than hold, but then that assumes that gravity is the dominant force.

Depends on altitude as well. RH is a strange thing that cannot be easily calculated, so approximations are used. Worth making a simple temperature, relative humidity and air pressure logger. They can tell you so much. Only cost a few quid as well.

As luck would have it, this week's Book of the Week, Slime: A Natural History, is being read out on R4. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m0010wy3 Maybe burning is not such a great idea unless done properly. There is an Energy From Waste incinerator near St. Awful. Not far from you.

I was painting a ceiling on an A Frame ladder. The clip that holds the horizontal part of the A failed. The fall was not far, trouble was, my left arm was under the ladder, and my right foot was trapped between two rungs. Luckily there were other on site that disentangled me. Only a fractured left arm and broken ribs. Carried on the next day. After throwing that ladder away and buying a decent one. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Werner-Aluminium-12-in-1-Multi-Purpose-Ladder-with-Platform/p/250167 Only paid £40 for mine.

To me, Solum is a single type of soil, which may, or may not be in layers with other soil types. So may be missing something here. But basically, once the spores are in your building, and they will be, they will find a niche and multiply.

Most of my life I have lived in either centrally heated, or air conditioned houses. The one that made me ill was the 'fisherman's cottage' I had in Weymouth. No heating that one. There is a myth that bleach, which is a powerful oxidant, kills mould. It does, to a certain extent, but it does not change the conditions that mould likes to grow in.

When did washing the car get bigged up to 'detailing'?

Do I Remember remember, the 5th of November

You can install the complete PV system and just use the two isolators to disconnect the AC and the DC sides. It is what they are there for. I think you can get locks for them as well. Always disconnect the AC side first. Don't isolate on the DC side as that can cause arcing in the switch. Ask our old electrician about this, dopey pillock.

Burn it and stop the spores causing asthma.

I am all for having a sauna again. Bollocks to the carbon footprint and running costs.

RRRRRRRRR

That's the jobbies.

You can get meters that look like MCBs and have an output if you want to log the usage. But can't remember what they were actually called. They were pretty cheap.

I was working on 0.0875 m3.s-1. So should be no problem there. Makes life even easier. Stick a 2 kW fan heater in and see what it does. (it is always possible that I have made an error somewhere, so worth double checking)

Start measuring or we will be like heating 'engineers', just guessing and voicing uneducated opinion.

Bad fortnight, having to travel though Devon 4 times a week at the moment, and for the foreseeable future. Basically, you cannot get rid of this mould once you have it. Manage it maybe, but it will always be lurking there.

So that will be an area of 0.01m2 and 0.025m2. If you had an airlflow of 2 m.s-1 then you can shift 0.07 m3 a second. That is 252 m3 an hour. In proper language, you will be moving around 300 kg.h-1. Air takes 1 kJ.kg-1.K-1 of energy. So to raise your air temperature from outside temperatures to duct temperatures will take about 11,000 kJ, or 3 kWh every hour. That is a power delivery of 3kW. Not much. Now I have no idea what size your house is, or how fast air moves in duct work. 2m.s-1 is about 4.5 MPH.

A quick look at Wikipedia always helps. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stachybotrys_chartarum So glad the prevailing wind is taking it to Devon and not Penzance. With all fungal infections I recommend

Not read all the replies just yet. So my 10 penyths worth. Is there a problem with sound transmission with the current heating? Especially between rooms. There is nothing to stop you fitting a heat exchanger from an ASHP in the ductwork to replace current heat source. Except one thing. Gas, oil, electrical and soils fuels have high combustion temperatures (which lowers the RH to practically 0%), ASHP start to loose their efficiency once over about 45⁰C. So this would reduce the amount of energy the the system, as a hole can deliver. If you cannot dig up the floor and fit a decent amount of insulation i.e 120+mm, then do what you can. The floor will always draw heat out of the place, but if you are only heating the air in each room, then the temperature differences are not huge, circa 12⁰C. UFH is closer to 25⁰C.

Can you bring some sound deadening down here there is a screaming baby in the cafe. Owned by one of the Extinction Rebels. Running my elevensies. (expletive deleted)ing hippies.

@Gone West I think the main thing is that it can easily take more than twice the energy to warm up a damp house. So if the heating system was designed to deliver 6 kW, you may need 15 or 18 kW before there is any noticeable change. Without the ability to get enough energy in the structure, it will always feel cold. This could be an important point when fitting an ASHP in a new, traditionally built, house. Not so much a problem with TF and plasterboard.

Data is so much better than speculation.