SteamyTea

So that makes 3 of us anonymous. Why they galvanise it. Well they do for boat anchors. Make a load of spares and change them if a problem. Could always you oak dowels, like the traditionalist use.

Not sure why not structurally, @Gus Potter can answer that better. Some grades of stainless steel do not like to be in an oxygen deprived environment, why they are not used much in subsea environments, or rock climbing. I can't remember which grade it is though. This may help. https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/beware-stainless-steel-corrosion/ https://www.manufacturingtomorrow.com/news/2020/01/16/stainless-steel-best-option-for-corrosive-environments/14630/ Not many toolmakers left working. I did my apprenticeship in toolmaking, now most people under 50 do not have a clue what one is.

It is a crude tool, though useful for year on year comparisons. From my weather and energy usage analysis, OAT is the biggest driver by far, but much of that is to do with my house being a mid terrace.

@ToughButterCup started writing up what can be done.

Have you check it at the temperature you actually turn your heating on. My minor improvements dropped the temperature by about 1°C. I used to turn the heating on after the first full week when the OAT was 10°C, now do it at 9°C. HDD use a standard distribution (near enough) for OAT temperature, dropping a degree may seem small, but may be a lot of hours in reality.

@Adsibob I made a shelf a while back. It is 0.88 m wide, 0.47 m deep. It is made from two sheets of cheap 10 mm MDF, with a bit of 40 mm by 30 mm (I think) rough sawn pine separating them. The same sized timber strips are screwed into the wall in 3 sides and the shelf slid over them. I think there are 4 timbers inside the shelf, one each side close to the wall supports, and two more evenly spaced. So to see how much it moved when loaded I measured from the ceiling to the bottom of the shelf at the mid point. 518mm. Then I stacked it with 10.85 kg of books in the middle, at the front. 519 mm. So 1 mm drop. I then spread the books out like a proper library, 518.5 mm. So basically with an 11 kg load, no movement. I may have the pictures in the wrong order, but as there is so little movement, it don't matter. No load Stacked books. Spread out books.

Probably not worth skimping on, just put in 10 sub meters, each with there own fuse and isolator.

Something like this then. 35 W.m2

You can model the tank as a small house. So calculate the surface area, then the u-value of the glass, then the temperature difference. Just to make it more fun you can calculate the evaporation losses. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/evaporation-water-surface-d_690.html Then treat the fish tank as a heater and see how it affects the room heat losses. Or just go to the local park and nick some goldfish.

Oily massage always works for me. Don't matter if I am grubby or no.

Ask @pocster he was looking into it.

There's no real typical value While not typical, @JohnMo has a chart with pipe spacing and temperatures on it. So should be able to design for 30°C, might just mean that most of the floor is sitting on pipe, but you get the idea.

An interesting engineering problem. I wonder if you could cast/encapsulate the appropriate parts in an airtight resin. I think radon barriers are thick polyethylene, which is a bugger to adhere to, but there is generally a way around joining dissimilar materials. I am only thinking aloud, and not knowing the details it is hard to imagine the problem. But it is only an engineering problem, and as Ken Tyrell said "An engineer is only someone that does for a penny what any damn fool can do for a quid".

Can you put a sump and air blower in?

What the SCoP is for. It tells you the expected performance over a typical metrological year. Then divide the price of electricity by the SCoP to get the running cost. The heat demand of the house is blind to the technology used to heat it.

They can physically be at the same locations as the weather stations, at the same time, just to alive.

Are the easy things like low energy lighting, controls on heating, double glazing already done. What does the EPC say are any weak points. Do they still recommend a wind turbine?

There is a lot to be said for doing that. Electrical Engineers seem to design to the minimum they can get away with, that is why it is usually difficult to put wires in easily, then screw up the terminals tightly.

There is only one way, Dave's Way. Don't question it unless you want to be belittled.

Say, after 20 years you redo it. Worth staying in the house, will end up as sexy as this once all the cracks, holes and wrinkles are filled. Might be PVC in the image, but you get the idea.

Looks a little dry in places to me. Really, then why do they sell it, what do they claim it is for?

That may be your problem. Water can easily find a path though the matrix, especially if there are some dry patches i.e. too much mat, not enough resin. Sand well and get the top/flow coat on. Then see what happens.

There is a fair bit on emulsion polymers here, I say a fair bit, I cannot be bothered to read it.