SteamyTea

Except there is a power difference between the flap being closed, partially open and fully open, as well as the power loss though the casing. When the units are charging up at night, the output flap automatically closes. If the unit is blasting out heat first thing, then it is faulty, get it fixed. During the day, there are incidental heat gains most of the time. If the output control, even on old heaters like mine, is set correctly, then it tracks the inside temperature nicely, i.e. as the room natural warms, the heater is loosing energy, but not in a linear fashion, it follows Newton's Law of Cooling. This keeps everything in equilibrium. There is, therefore, no need to adjust for the evening. Now if you have a heat load of say 30 kWh/day, and your storage heater only has an effective capacity of 20 kWh, then you will have problems, but that is incorrect sizing, not useless technology. If people cannot get storage heaters sized correctly, and learn how to operate them, there is little hope that heat pumps are going to be successful. They are much harder to set up. But as I have said, a heat pump is a better option, but there is going to be a steep learning curve, so steep that most people will fall off it unfortunately. Cross post, same sentiment.

They are designed to, that is how they work. It is a bit like saying that UFH in a concrete slab 'leaks heat' when people are not there. It is not very efficient to constantly raise and lower the building temperature during the day. Industry and commerce still use a lot of power during the day, you can see the difference on the weekends/holiday weeks. What will make a difference is our nuclear fleet shutting down, they are designed to run, basically unmodulated, 24/7. This is where storage is going to be needed. Nuclear is currently churning out about 4.25 GW, so multiply by 7, ~30 GWh needs to be replaced to cover its contribution for night storage. This does not have to be stored chemically, it can be stored thermally, which is what happens now. The price differential is another issue and has nothing to do with the technical ability to store and deliver energy. It is of course, better to use heat pumps. I had my smart meter repaired today (was the communication hub not working, shall see how long it lasts this time), the man who fixed it said he had a Daikin ASHP, but then said he had hot water on demand, as in instantaneous heating. Seems odd, but he did not seem to know much about the workings of a heat pump and said the old line that 'they only work in well insulated houses', then commented that it would not work in my house as my windows were wooden. Bet I could have got them working, may have needed an increase in capacity. Exactly. My old lodger, who may have had a stroke and seemed a bit slow, was actually very clever, struggled to understand that the hot water only heated up at night (I never told her about the upper heater), so if she drained the hot water cylinder, there was none left for when I got home from work smelling of cooking fat. I eventually got her to use less when I showed her my water bill of £2000 for the year and compared it to the previous year of £400. If we, as a nation, do start to use ToU tariffs, there are going to be a lot of people with huge bills.

Only if sized and used incorrectly. Mine, from 1987, are fine. If my house had twice the heat load, I could just charge them up to a higher temperature and for a bit longer. Like a heat pump system, they are not used like gas or oil fired central heating. If people can't get them to work, then they need to read up on them and stop blaming the technology.

Yes, a very important point. The electrical shock risk is reduced, but not the fire risk. All switching has to be capable of dealing with the DC currents as well. Not a case of assuming that ordinary switches can cope.

Don't nearly all bricks come out a furnace.

Drug dealer is he? Next time you are there, ask how the wall mounted heat pump is working.

The living room.

That is a brilliant idea. Probably cheaper than paint. I feel the old Blue Peter joke coming on about what has no arms and legs but sticks to the wall.

Kill everything, just incase there is something interesting to ecologist.

But you may hit problems if you put services in for the caravan. Limited to a bit of gardening really.

Welcome. Check the Community Infrastructure Levy (CIL) situation before you start anything. Don't want to get clobbered for a few grand.

Hard to tell what has gone wrong. I suspect there is a chemistry mismatch. That may sound a bit vague, but what I mean is that say the original coating was a PU coating and the new stuff and as an epoxy (or the other way around) then you have to sand back to the original substrate. New doors in the right colour would be safer.

If you went down this route, wouldn’t the increased airflow dry out the place too much, such that you would need an enthalpy exchanger thingy as well as a heat exchanger? Possibly, it would depend on the starting conditions. Doubt you would ever need to increase humidity down here.

Can you get a pipe freezer and fit the valves that way? https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-pipe-freezing-kit-150ml/433fj

I would have filled your house with smoke quiet happily. And I did not remember, at the time, to mention the huge leak around the WBS air inlet.

You can have both. One system to move air around the building, and then the MVHR. A bit of clever design and the MVHR can be 'injected and extracted' from the air handling unit. Yes, as I said, design on the system is everything.

It is possible to use a ventilation system to move heat around. Just a case of making it bigger, or moving air though it faster. If you have the room, larger ducts are easy to fit, takes some careful designing to not look odd, and watch out for room to room crosstalk. Quite a few of us on here do not have heating upstairs, we just rely on natural convection and conductance through the ceiling from below.

I took a video of it, think I posted it up here somewhere. There is a topic about making a DIY blower in here. It is basically just a fan fitted to a board, then fitted in a window opening.

Welcome Gaz Can't help you much at all in making a decision about PMing or no. But regarding the trade networks, just last night I fell asleep listening to this: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001r1fy It is about networks and how the are interconnected and react, well worth 15 minutes of your time. Seems that in some projects/companies, those at the top have no interaction with those at the bottom. I am was a dreadful manager as I assume everyone lese has the same vision, but they don't. Just yesterday I explained something to a work colleague, why it had to be done, how it needed to be done and how long it would take, then watched them, while I am still there, totally ignore the instructions and carry on doing what they always did. (expletive deleted)ing twats, the term efficiency often gets confused with rushing.

It is because they are crap. Just read this old study, then think that the two main UK manufacturers of small turbines have gone bankrupt, never to reappear. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378778807002939

I am better at incompitance. Welcome. Just swear first, works for me.

You can read this. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378778817323101

A PU glue will work well on polystyrene, though you would probably get away with a cheap PVA one in this instance.

Which bit you interested in? Basically you can buy the cheapest Raspberry Pi Zero W, 4 DHT22 sensors, a light dependant diode and a cheap electrical meter with a pulse LED on it, wire them up and log the data to a file. I have know idea if you have any coding/Linux experience, but it is really quite simple to set something like this up with instructions. A few quirts to overcome, but basic stuff. Here is a bit about the energy meter.