SteamyTea

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235105696368

$20k buys a lot of the real thing, and you don't have to charge them up at 40p/kWh.

I dream of that, frequently.

Why is the mixing tank temperature stable, at 25°C, in all the charts?

Do you have any other properties with loft storage tanks? May be worth getting them checked out.

Cold shower will do you good.

I am a bit of a fan of earth.nullschool.net as it gives a nice view of what is happening, weather wise, globally. I was looking at some of the other option the other day and noticed that you can see large fires on it. We have some happening in the UK right now. They are the red dots. For something more scary. Madagascar must be horrible.

Is it just a cold water tank or does is it a feed and expansion for the hot water. If latter, I think they need to be steel now so they cannot collapse if filled with hot water.

You got insurance for that sort of thing surely.

I take it you have looked at Part H of the building regs? https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/heat-recovery-efficiency-d_201.html

You may find that as the temperature difference increased, so does the efficiency. The energy usage of the fans needs to be subtracted from the total. Small fans are inefficient, so the largest fan you can get away with is best. Have to be careful if using a speed controller as some can use quite a bit of energy on their own, though that can be put into the room outlets.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/heat-recovery-efficiency-d_201.html https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/enthalpy-moist-air-d_683.html He had MVHR unit with a heat pump in it as far as I know, and off the shelf unit, cant remember who made it now,

Sheet insulation, polystyrene or PU. Could be a secondary box stuffed with mineral wool. I think it is a general term for the heat exchanger itself, rather than the complete unit.

All the temperature differences are very small as well. You get a greater energy transfer when the deltas are greater.

I just done a quick spreadsheet and, after rounding, shows your unit delivering 50%. That is just on temperature and does not include enthalpy and moisture heat recovery.

24/7 as the fan I linked to was under 1 W. So a couple of quid a year to run.

Metric Fine and UNF are not that odd. They are often used as they are self locking. And just for a laugh, ACME, as we all like a cartoon. Looks like something that is found in @Pocster's dungeon.

Yes, or wait for a very cold, still day.

Can that be viewed via onlyfans? May help to pay the bills.

It is just teasing you. Do you have kids in the house that may be using something?

I am in a cafe at the moment but that does not seem right. You can take a stab at the sums and see what f it makes sense. If you assume that the heat transfer medium is water (4.2 kJ/kg.K) and take a small packet of water, say 1 kg, to keep the sums easy. Also assume that the return temperature is the same, let's say 27⁰C. Then. @Flow 30⁰ 4.2 x (30 - 27) = 12.6 kJ @Flow 40⁰ 4.2 x (40 - 27) = 54.6 kJ @Flow 50⁰ 4.2 x (50 - 27) = 96.6 kJ Now that is a very basic, and almost certainly a very extreme calculation as the return temperature is fixed, but say @40⁰ the return is at 33⁰ then: 4.2 x (40 - 33) = 29.4 kJ An energy difference of 16.8 kJ. A 43% increase. Without some real numbers the above is speculation. So it is well worth getting some real temperatures and times the system is actually generating energy.

Almost right. Depending on the thermal inertia. The room air temperature may be in equalibrium, but that could be because energy is leaking out via thermal paths that are varying in temperature more rapidly than you think. The heating system may be trying to compensate for this by increasing flow, or temperature, or both. This is more pronounced on a heat pump than a gas or oil boiler. They work differently. A gas or oil boiler is a fixed temperature device, a heat pump, by the nature that the 'fuel' i.e. the ground or air, varies in temperature, causes the power to drop if you try to keep the same flow rate or temperature.

My house is a timber frame place. There are a number of stud walls to separate areas i.e. kitchen and living room. One of the walls also separates the landing and a bedroom. This stud wall passes all the way from the loft to the foundation. It leaked around sockets and a door frame. I found that sealing across the top of it in the loft helped a lot. I had boarded most of my loft apart from this one bit (F&E tank in the way), so maybe the rest of the boarding had reduced the air passage. Do any of your internal walls seem cold or have draughts? Another place to look for cold spots is between floors i.e. where joists are fitted and maybe weep vents. This can cause cold air to travel quite a way inside a house if the wind barrier (tyvek) is fitted badly. Make a blower from a fan. If you can build a house, you can cut a bit of sheet to fit an open window, then cut a whole in it to tape a fan to. You are not after pressure readings, just a small pressure difference to cause air movement.