SteamyTea

X is an unknown quantity, spurt is a drip under pressure.

Does not come as a surprise, not as if they are really offering a big discount to use off peak power. Out of interest, if this a legitimate holiday let, should you not be paying commercial rates for your energy, and 20% VAT.

Things may have changed since I was involved with domestic PV, but it used to be the case that there were no FiT restriction on inverters. The DNO did have to be involved, and possibly still do for safety and supply reasons. So you may have to involve them and send them the correct paperwork. Get in touch with them by phone (they are generally helpful if you explain it is a technical question to the person that answers the phone first). Then take it from there.

You got Gallus domesticus, there is ointment

He was talking about your cock.

Does it make any difference if you have net metering?

You going to measure up the windows for ordering?

OK I think I get it now. GRP is the only answer then. (It would not be hard to mould some GRP into sheets that have battens already in them. Then just a case of counter battening and slapping on the times. Fire risk should not be a problem as there are good resins these days, and you would get water tightness and strength built in)

Right, that will help. How are they held in place and what stops weeds, or echiums, taking rook between them.

You have to actually click/tap on the name from the drop down list. @joe90 is not the same as @joe90 @krev You may notice that in the above image there is a "choose file" link. This is used to add pictures. There is some slight differences between adding files, sometimes you can copy cna paste one in, and other times you can't. The choose file option will work for everything that is not too large, or the wrong sort. If you are really an IT ludite, and there is no shame in that, you may want to ask someone to help you understand Spreadsheets. They really are going to be your friend.

Yes, I could live with that. We seem to be getting more and more confusing ToU tariffs. Will all end in tears before bedtime as most people can't even cope with E7. Not helped by the power companies having different times for different places, then the clocks changing twice a year, but E7 is UTC all year.

It can, or make for more confusion. Possibly why I am not sure what is going on in this thread.

That is my understanding. MIs usually trump BS7671. But it is over a decade ago since I did my Micky Mouse Part P. I would just have a look for a switched fused spur that you like the look of. Then stick some tape over the switch.

This could be something that electricians recommend to people. While I have a small house and very small loads, it is a shame that the E7 radial wiring (only 3 circuits) are in strange places to my mind (inside exterior walls next to the main sockets). Couple of redundant circuits on a each floor would probably only cost £200 at time of build. Now it would be many hundreds. I suppose the biggest problem would be documenting them for future usage i.e. cable size and position.

This detail worries me. What is to stop water from getting under the tiles when they adhesive/grout fails, and what is to stop water building up and over flowing the top of the flashing when the drain fails? This must be why parapets are so hated.

Welcome Wish I was as young as your house. Think you need to start ordering your list of things to do as you don't want to get halfway in and then decide you need to dig the floor up to insulate it properly. Quoting comments is easy, and it notifies the person that you have quoted them, very useful if you are expecting them to reply.

The Grenfell Tower inquiry may force legislation to be updated on who is really responsibly. Be another decade before it changes anything, so may comes down to underwriters, who tend to react much faster and harder.

As batteries age, it is accepted they hold less charge. If one assumes a 10% charging overhead for thermal losses (this may vary over times and is just a starting point), then a 15 kWh system will need 16.5 kWh to be fully charged (this is depth of discharge agnostic for this purpose), that is an initial efficiency of 91%. If one then assumes that the battery capacity reduces by 5% each year, the efficiency then drops to 86% after a year, then 82% by end of year 3. After ten years it is 54%. I am not actually sure if a degraded battery still takes the same amount of energy to charge up to deliver lower amount of energy, and lightly discharged batteries may well fair better than heavily discharged ones. I think this is called Coulombic Efficiency (CE). Even if the charging energy levels are reduced over time, I very much suspect that the overall CE drops. Even if it is half of what I have modeled (very basic model with assumptions), that still means after a decade near enough 30% of the capacity has gone. This will also affect the power delivery i.e. initially say it can deliver 5 kW, after a decade it may be only to deliver 3.5 kW. It would be nice if someone that has batteries can monitor the overall energy in and the overall energy out to see how good they are, it is too easy to fudge the numbers to make them fit an argument. A chart.

16th June 2016 made trading with the relatively small UK market a lot harder. It is what everyone wanted, so that is what we have.

think it is an electrical problem, so may be a cheap fix if it can be traced.

It does, as well as Polyisocyanurate.

As I was sitting on the side of the A30 this morning (my car eventually packed up) this occurred to me. Basically make a jig at the correct angle, two bits of ply and a couple layers of 450 g.m-2 CSM and a decent topcoat glaze.

Most mold removers just bleach the funguses, they don't actually kill it. Why you see mould regrowth in the same places. The only real solution is to remove the growing conditions, which externally is just about impossible. Even then you will probably just get colonised by a different strain after a few weeks. One thing that moulds do not like us dry conditions, they go dormant when dedicated. Any way you can make it dryer? Maybe a silicone masonry treatment after cleaning. As for an other solution, try many different types of mould remover and once you have found one that works, treat it as a scheduled maintenance problem.

There are a lot of free CAD packages. *.dwg is a common standard, download one and see if it opens your files properly.

CLS One for the abbreviations thread