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Our olive tree which we've had nearly two years now had a dozen or so large olives and near to fifty pea sized ones. I was really surprised to see the blackbird in the tree eating them the other day, he's obviously got exotic tastes. So much for a partridge in a pear tree.

I knocked up a spreadsheet in summer when I was trying to understand how cooling downstairs affected the upstairs temps. You basically fill in the orange boxes with starting state, and see what the impact is on other temperatures. Assuming 80% efficiency, 6 degrees outside, 18 degrees upstairs and 22 degrees downstairs, you can see that the temp of the supply air is actually only 17.2 degrees, so : Bumping efficiency helps - at 90%, the supply temp is 18.6 degrees. Lots of assumptions in this, but as a coarse model I've found it interesting to play with. The other thing is that towel rails and other forms of bathroom heating only heat air that's already passed through the bedrooms. While they'll have an impact on the temperature of the supply air due to the MVHR heat exchanger, half of the heat they supply will end up in the supply air to downstairs. Our bedrooms are at about 20 degrees at the moment. Great for sleeping, very slightly cooler than would be ideal for getting out of bed in the mornings.

Stops the pump flow bypassing through the cylinder when heating and hot water are flowing in unison. It is exactly that, a balancing valve. It’s job is to give proportional flow to the cylinder instead of 100% of what’s available.

In my opinion Cullen make some fantastic products. I believe you would only need a packer if the hanger and joist did not extend down past the bottom flange if you read their Manuel carefully you will see each product needs to be used in strict accordance with its intended use.

@Ed Davies thanks mate, didn’t realise an imbalance would cause such an effect, yes there is a “gadget” next to the MVHR with a screen and some data. I have turned the MVHR off and will give it 24hrs to see if temps stabilise. If I don’t report back we have secumbed! note, another great example of the world of information this forum gets from such knowledgable members. Thanks.

Unless you are going several hundred metres and below roads and building 3 or more properties etc, it is pretty much guaranteed that you will use 110mm underground pipe. It’s the defacto standard for drainage.

It should be 90% of the temperature of the extract air relative to the outside air (not absolute zero) if the flows are balanced, there's no condensation going on and so on. e = (Ts - To) / (Te - To) where: e = efficiency (as a proportion; multiply by 100 to get percent, of course). Ts = supply air temperature (air going into the rooms from the exchanger). To = outside temperature (air going into the inlet from outside to the exchanger). Te = extract air temperature (air going from the rooms to the exchanger). The exhaust air temperature (air going from the exchanger to the outside) doesn't matter, that's lost and gone. So: Ts = e × (Te - To) + To or, if all temperatures are measured relative to outside, it's simply: Ts = e × Te

I made that point in post #2, and Jack explained it with a spreadsheet in post #4

If you think about it, MVHR is always cooling down your house (assuming outside is colder than inside). The more it runs, the more cold air it brings in, it just isn't as cold as it might be due to the heat exchange capturing energy from the extracts. If you switch off the MVHR upstairs might get warmer, but it would be stuffy.

I don’t have that problem, I can only plant bog plants or they drown ?

Our upstairs temperature is around 22C and downstairs around 23C, if it wasn't there would be complaints. 16C maybe toasty to an Innuit.

Also check joist sizing. Most of our joists span end to end of the building, so are sized for the longest span. That means for some spans they are over sized. Above our snug living room some of the joists are smaller, having been cut in 2 by the stairwell, so the joists on one half are the over sized ones, and on the other half of the room are the "correct" sized ones. The result is noticeably more floor bounce one side of the bedroom than the other. I wish I had noticed this on the plans and got the same size joists everywhere.

That is similar to what we are finding, so perhaps the Lossnay units are not as good as they claim? It is colder here. When it's sub zero outside, 20 downstairs, the bedrooms have got down to 16 and I have been told that is too cold. The fix so far has been fire up the stove, get downstairs up to 25 and then all that excess heat finds it's way upstairs (mostly by convection up the stairwell) to warm up the bedrooms a bit. Currently about 5 degrees outside (and blowing a hoolie) Supply air to bedrooms is measuring 17 degrees so about 3 degrees cooler than downstairs exhaust air. 17 degrees supply air is a lot better than 5 degrees it would be today without the mvhr. Remember, just because downstairs exhaust air is at 20 degrees does not mean it will heat all supply air to 20 degrees. Some (half) of the exhaust air will be from the upstairs rooms that are also a bit cooler.

I've just looked at his video and it looks the same. I've used two layers of Compriband and Soudal low expansion foam on the inside. Soudal do their own window installation system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74HnLT9S3io

We had our Rehau Geneo windows installed by the manufacturers. They were fitted into a timber frame construction. The frames come with a central groove all the way round the outside which was fitted with Compiband expanding foam tape. It is important to use the correct thickness of tape for the gap between the frame and the opening. They then fitted the windows to the openings with straps. That gave a draught proof fitting. I then went around each window installing another layer of Compriband tape on the outside edge of the frame. I then foamed the gap between the frame and reveal on the inside and then foamed behind the plasterboard on the reveal. I installed the Internorm entrance doors myself using a similar method.

It seems that the canine has decided to return to a state of slumber, so just proceed cautiously until something says stop. if you are roughly doing the right thing, then other priorities will probably be prioritised. If there is anything you intend to communicate on a 'please reply within 14 days or I will assume it is ok basis', Thu 20 or Fri 21 may be a good day to send the email ;-). UNless you actually want something to happen. YOu can even use the December post and 'x .. 14 or 21 .. days from the date of this letter'. There are lots of beneficial options, including quite useful deemed service dates measured from your date of proof of posting. F

Very good product and service is good too. TBH as you’re in Scotland then ask @craig what their costs would be as wasn’t far off what I got the 3G ones for.

Tbh I never put inhibitor in until it’s all leak tested as otherwise you’re chucking money away when you drain down again. Get the system full of water now and get it cycling to get the air out of the rads etc then run the boiler up.

You hope!