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I haven't.........I also have speakers in the bathroom ceilings and they have not suffered from the occasional hostile environment but I do have MVHR. As I said in an earlier post I installed the speakers in 2010.

Be positively negative - I think the modern generations would call it passive aggressive. You know: "Great company to deal with as they gave me a full refund when I pointed out that sadly the hole saw was not quite able to cut the depth it said it would on the website and was not an own brand product as they also said." Service review +ve product review -ve.

It's annoying me too, and for the sake of a few minutes work could have been a lot better. I suppose this is a good example of the differences between different ICF systems, each system having pluses and minuses. How a lintel is reinforced in our ICF block: This is how our walls were left prior to the gable blocks being built and poured. Is the absence of any rebar simply down to a lack of builder experience with the system being used and a simple (wrong) assumption that because it was only one course, it wouldn't matter?

Hi folks, For our curved wall sections, many people here and that have visited have commented on the lovely grain pattern on the ply I used for the curved wall. I don't want to varnish but willing to do a lacquered paint finish if the grain will show through - any recommendations on a lacquer? Not really sure what I doing be buying or best way to apply? I saw a staircase at a show where it was lacquered blur with the grain showing and it was lovely.

Osmo polyx/hard wax oil. Osmo do small 5ml samples for about £1 so cheap to test several colours or clear.. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil

At last, someone who is clear about the need for concise problem statements. What a relief. I'm going for 2 and 3, as well as a bit of the addendum. And I'm going for @Onoff's puffer and @PeterW's Hilti '...solution....' (Christ how I HATE the abuse of that innocent little word). I'm going to trial the use of resin because I'm going to need to fix the first floor POSIs, and they need to be 'resined' in. And for that I need clean holes. ================================ Monday morning: HERAS unlocked, 0700. PC's arriving today. Cos He Told Me 0900, a quick polite text to the PC: 'You coming today? 'I'm going to be with you erm, ahhhh, mid-week, Ian' 'And you knew that you were going to be delayed yet again by Wednesday of last week didn't you?' 'Er, well, yes' If you can't take a joke, don't self-build

You could ring Brett Martin in Mallusk http://www.brettmartin.com/en-gb/plumbing-and-drainage/products/rainwater-systems/anthracite-grey.aspx or Down PVC (great to deal with) http://www.downpvc.co.uk/rainwater.html or online try https://www.directplastics.com/guttering-downpipes/anthracite-grey-gutter

Ok if this is a replacement for a cast in there is only one adhesive I would trust and that's a Hilti HY200 - it's what it is designed to do. https://www.hilti.co.uk/anchor-systems/injectable-adhesive-anchors/r4803 Hilti tech services are superb - give them a call and explain what you need and they will advise what is the best adhesive as you may be able to get away with a lower spec if the loading is shear rather than axial. Downside is this stuff isn't cheap and needs a Hilti injector gun to install but it won't go anywhere for a long time ..! It's what they use to fix crash barriers onto Motorway bridges ....

Any cylinder holding stored, heated water that is sealed and pressurised, needs G3. A combination aka open pipe TS does not. Im a Telford man, and I prefer the fact that they make theirs out of all stainless steel. As far as bespoke goes, Telford manufacture to each order using their basic dumb cylinders as the base for each order. The cylinders are off the shelf but you can specify where the tappings go, within practicable reason, at no extra cost. Turnaround time is still less than a week from placing the order iirc. I see zero benefit from the tank in tank ( TIT for short ? ) option, with its reduced capacity for the same size cylinder. Id only go for the two tank UVC + buffer option if there was an ashp involved. With a 37kw oil boiler I'd be really worried about such a small second vessel as the oil boiler performs best when allowed to do a long burn at full wallop, rather than cycling in short bursts, and would reheat a 100L buffer very quickly indeed. I'd go for a single cylinder stat to stretch out the hysteresis of the on / off cycle to further promote this.

Have used Fischer and R-Kem before and both work fine. Just make sure you thoroughly clean the holes out, that includes dust and scraping sides clean.

OSMO opaque colours works well although the sheen level is a little higher than you might want for internals. Available in a range of colours or any colour to order. I.e. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-country-colour?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-7Poyb3E1QIVbb7tCh2XYgeXEAQYASABEgKbbPD_BwE It does need to be applied carefully though it doesn't like being applied thickly and will look glossy if over applied and you'll loose the wood grain you're wanting to achieve. Practice on a scrap piece first.

Shellac? Traditional way to bring out the grain, but also a decent barrier to water vapour, This is not quite my area, though.

If you do it, turn the blending valve right up so you can't get water stagnating in the Willis. Let the Willis thermostat set the flow temperature.

I knew asking on here first was a good idea ? For Sale: Old Gloworm Boiler - not yet converted to LPG ?

How about 25mm deep x 38mm wide mini trunking. You could butt your 25mm thick insulation up either side. You'd have plenty of space, air surrounding the cables for some cooling etc. What are the inside & outside faces of the 25mm insulation touching?

and / or A self-employed planner who really knows her oats. The gender choice is deliberate. Women are far more capable at focusing on detail; nitty gritty detail. And thats exactly what you need now. You need someone who can answer this question simply , honestly, quickly, first. Why? Because your design taste will be changed by the process of planning for building it. Exactly the same way that drinking cheap red wine , with persistence, evolves into the odd glass of serious claret. Research the planner market. Do that by reading widely. Read the Design Access statements` they have written. Does the statement show a well-argued narrative? Or is it sloppy / slapdash? Waste time with many local estate agents. Encourage indiscretion on their part; and remember those who refused. Network like mad. Then interview one or two. Trust those who want a small amount of cash up front for a quick, straight opinion. And then employ the one who impresses you most. But solve the water supply issue first. There is a long cautionary tale about that to be found on @JSHarris blog.

+1 to what @Ferdinand has said, particularly about conveyancing. When buying a plot, the legal considerations are different. You need to be assured that the boundaries are in exactly the right place, that the planning permission as granted can be implemented, that the site can be provided with services at a reasonable cost, that there are no underlying issues such as soil contamination, services crossing under the land, covenants that are restrictive in terms of development, planning conditions that are reasonable and can be met (and are acceptable to you), access that is free from constraints, such as a ransom strip, plus a few more. Few of these aspects would be routinely checked by a normal house conveyancing person (and most conveyancing isn't actually undertaken by a solicitor). I found that our solicitor had missed several key points on our purchase, but I was pre-warned, as we had tried to buy a plot of land elsewhere a few months earlier, and that had a lot of problems that highlighted the deficiencies in a normal conveyancing approach.

Returning to this. I think you *may* be cruising for a bruising if you are using someone who is treating it like a bog-standard house conveyance - with all due respect to people who make their living doing routine transactions. Or is it a demolish-and-rebuild or a known-reliable plot? On the other hand if you have emotionally already bought it then you may have gone past the point of no return in your head, even though you can withdraw your offer. We missed assigning reports on our much larger project getting PP and selling a field to a developer, and it cost us £1000+ when the Housing Developer we were selling to made it a condition of sale. The project could take it, but it is a lesson learned. If you are not in a position to identify for your risks, by definition you cannot identify the costs in time and money to manage them, or the size of the risk package you are choosing to take on blind. You may be OK, but there are any number of things that may be expensive to fix that you *could* negotiate on had you noticed them before you push the button, and here we can by definition only do personal opinions, albeit sometimes about specifics. The expensive uncertain stuff is the stuff underground, and that which is not identified on the standard bits of paper or may only appear in searches after you have started spending money on solicitors so already have some downside to withdrawing. If you do not have a suitably experienced solicitor/conveyancer and it is not , then I would suggest that you consider rapidly building up some hinterland yourself (books etc), or hiring a local professional to do a sanity check / elephant-trap hunt for you. For that route, you probably want the old and qualified experienced person from the backroom of the local independent estate agent - 10 years local experience ideally. You would get a 15 minute scoping conversation free first ... and they may be able to say "there be dragons" or "plots down there are usually OK" on the spot from having dealt with one eg 17 years ago. When does PP run out? One key questions is .. why are they selling it? If it is obviously just to make money then that is comforting, as is the fact that it has full PP. Ferdinand

Lol after 5 years of fighting the neighbours over planning and the enforcement officer out just last week ( waste of time of course ) there is good reason to p*ss the neighbours off !