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Nope, 3kW continuous is too much for a 13A plug.

The Sonoff device is likely already using a contactor as it's rated up to 20A. I can't find any explicit documentation though. Teardown (20A version): https://youtu.be/O1HvycrP4s4?t=457 You can also get big monsters like this (switches up to 5500W): https://tech.scargill.net/sonoff-powr3-powerful-controller/

13a peak, 10a constant. Resistive heating can suck full power for sustained periods, and everything warms up really quickly. Fuses will run ‘molten’ where the metal is borderline melting point, and the heat then spreads and it goes terminal. Use a timer to fire a pair of contactors, and make sure the 2 immersions are fed independently, and things will be less ‘toasted’ looking

My LPA’s CIL guys are quite helpful. Suggest running the problem by yours asap.

Hi - it's great to join this forum thanks

I’d use one of those wifi devices if you want another potential fire. If you really want to use one, then get it wired in via a contactor.

You need a Wi-Fi (or Bluetooth / Thread / Zigbee / Zwave) relay / contactor capable of handling the load you are putting through it. Something like: https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-plus-1/ (but only rated up to 16A so be careful) or https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-pow-elite-smart-power-meter-switch/ (one of them is rated up to 20A) Personally I'd flash ESPHome on whichever device I chose (super easy to do) so I knew they were secure. You can also program the timer at the device level so even if Home Assistant / ESPhome is down the timer will still run fine locally on the device. There are various ways to make this nicer to use e.g. using the screen to display auto / manual mode, next timer run and current time

Looks like someone previously used a sand / cement mix on one area. Has the damp problems been totally resolved, that blew the plaster in the first place? A lime mix will let it breath. I would put some uni bond on first and let it dry, before applying render.

The fuse, which by it's nature is a bit of resistance wire, will also have got hot and looks to be the culprit. Feed it directly from a 20A double pole switch, not a fused switch unit or you will just be moving the next failure to the FCU.

too much for too long. There's always a small amount of heating effect at a contact point- which in the case of a plug tends to weaken the sprung contacts that hold the fuse. Vicious circle then... Tumbledryer? Immersion heater?

That Northern coast is very exposed and very wet. It is green with added cows. Also exposed to the Atlantic for wind. No siestas or heading out around midnight around there, Up in the NW is Galicia where Madrid natives head in summer for the cooler weather. Head slightly inland and uphill and it's like the alps. So logically there will be lots of insulation and vapour barrier construction...No. Being nerdy that way I look on sites, in diy stores and online . Insulation is a new fad, and there isn't much choice. These blocks as shown above are regarded as insulating blocks, but obviously have multiple cold bridges, then just get rendered on both sides. I have seen some new houses being built with 50mm eps on the outside, so it is going to catch on eventually. Breathability , if that means that wet walls will dry out is hit and miss. Away from the north, the walls dry out in the heat. In the north They seem to rely on shedding the water. All of what I've said is based on very limited observation, and there may well be large scale construction in the cities with a more modern philosophy.

I came to this from the opposite direction. I need power 24/7, 365 days per year. Where I live PV is pretty much a non-event for 3 months of the year and marginal for another two. (I would do a lot better with wind energy but its not acceptable to the planners.) E7 electricity is available at reasonable cost 365 days per year. I therefore installed a 15kWh battery system charged from E7 (no solar at all), including the inverter this was <£3k. This moves almost all my entire electricity consumption to off peak. Payback time is around 4 years. Given this as a starting point, If I then work out whether it makes sense to add PV to the system the answer is pretty much no. Don't assume that a battery must be an add on to PV. Consider PV as an add on to a battery and do the maths - you may be surprised. As for the environmental story - The off-peak period has a lot more renewables/nuclear in the mix so there is likely to be a net CO2 reduction compared to raw electricity usage.

thank you SteamyT

Be aware of quotes that look too good to be true. They normally are too good to be true. Also ask the architect who they like to work with, they are normally the ones that get on with job are zero hassle - that's what you want. 5m bi-folds, cheap will leak air like a sieve, so get specifics on what is being quoted and look at the item. Get whole window U value (Uw) if double glazed you want 1.4 U value or better. If they give you Ug value that is just the glass and not what you are looking for. One of our quotes for windows, came with recommendations, we went to the showroom and half the opening mechanisms didn't function correctly (broken) and frames really bulky - we went elsewhere .

The above worked out fine and has been accepted by our building control company. If anyone needs help with it in future tag me.

Find a local planning consultant and let they see what can be done.

If you mean can you hang a mezzanine from roof trusses then almost certainly not. If you mean can you use an inverted bowstring truss as a mezzanine beam then yes, so long as it is designed (or is adequate if it is recycled) properly for the span and loading.

I, too have found lots of uses for the compriband tape left over from my window installs. I did all the gable ladders and then soffits and fascias myself. Used tape on some gaps, EBT on others. I have Thermohouse EPS roof boards, which do not facilitate the usual soffit and facia board fixing methods and require 450mm high boards to cover EPS.

Now I often post up links to radio shows, and get very few replies, but people may find this interesting. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001y89y There is 5 of them.

We have Sto and we're very happy, 2.5 years later still looks like new.

I spent 8 hours in Tarmac head office telling whoever turned up that I was waiting to get paid. Tarmac were in the national press at the time as an example of a company that did not pay small contracts in time, if ever.

This thread is like an episode of time team. Gradually digging deeper into the history of the chimney! At least there's no annoying artist impressions of what life was like when the chimney was first built 😂

No. And you would not want to either. Get it wired up properly. Naked people, a few sips of vodka, a bucket of water and an electrical stove. Not a good mix. (I had to deal with two fatalities when, after a catalogue of errors, caused one of our saunas to catch fire. Remember I said about the thermal fuse and the timer, that was brought in after the inquests)

I've a few bags of leftover ducting clips if anybody wants them 🤣

"Hey Siri, dial gate", and the magic happens. You old fart lol.

Through a neighbour who had used them. They are in Scotland every week. The day they templated ours they did three others in the nearby town. The quality is good. The guys that fitted it were efficient and careful. Ours is just over 3m by 1.3m so quite big. It wasn’t cheap but I didn’t find any of the suppliers that cheap.