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Near enough. G59 was actually replaced by G99 (being the rules for >16A installs) G83 was replaced by G98 (rules for <=16A) https://33kv.com/news/the-impact-of-moving-from-g59-to-g99/ https://www.ssen.co.uk/G99G98Requirements/FAQ/

I hear what you say about planning, but 2 windows upstairs might make it more attractive when selling as someone will see an easy conversion to 3 beds and think they are getting a bargain.

Too late now, but in a previous house where we could not get a long enough worktop, I did the very unconventional thing of put the joint under the hob, so you only saw a little bit of joint at the front and the back.

last bit arrived from China today, so that's my RF switched 13A socket completed. Bottom left is the £1.54 433MHz receiver with relay output, And bottom right inside the white box is the £1.49 12V power supply. I have tried it and it works, but now the solar PV output is well on it's way down the "winter cliff" I don't think it will switch on in anger now until the spring.

Unfortunately the joints look good If it’s any consolation Had you of used real marble You would have had the same Issue on any joint Random pattern

I think he has to pass heating pipes, so by the time you take the 15mm heating pipes, their brackets and the waste pipe to pass that, 80mm is feasible. Moving the units forward is the practical solution for sure. I'd build the whole run, screw them all together, position them to miss the pipework, level the whole lot then contort something to attach them to the wall. Simples.

Thats possibly my best option, we are having quartz worktops which will be cut to suit so would just mean that that worktop would be slightly deeper.

You are right this is all in the detail. 1 Have you actually measured it? Ie Sat on a dining chair where your car would be and measured the splays that you already have whilst your longsuffering (soon to be ex ?) friend wanders around with a bright jacket and a paintbrush? Has anyone told you what you do need, so you know your goal in comparing the two? 2 I think that if you have not done so, reading the relevant sections of Manual for Streets (MFS) would really help - there is a lot there. There are lots of things you can argue that might help, and it is the actual normal assumptions about those that would determine any appeal. There are several things that have not been mentioned afaics: 2 Two houses inside the same space that used to have one will not double traffic. It may push it up by 50%, but should not double it. I can see 1 x 4 bed going to say 2 x 2 and 1 x 3 bed. You need to know what assumptions are made, and how you can design or specify your house to work with that. 3 Is there a gradient? Stopping distances reduce uphill, and required splays are based on those. If it slopes the right way, that could help. 4 In built up areas the 'setback' (ie "X" distance) can be reduced to 2m sometimes not 2.4m. 20mph + traffic calming sounds arguable. 5 Remember that your splays will be set by the 20mph limit - though your survey may show traffic being slow, which I think you can use instead. 6 Where is the line to measure the setback from? Your minimal verge may or analogy with the general boundary rule may help slightly there. 7 Do you count the "centre" of your drive measuring point as between fences or the hardstanding? 8 Have you considered paying the other side to move their fence instead, and realign or splay the drive slightly? 1k to rearrange his dustbins plus a binstore built by you might be attractive. He obviously does not need to drive over the corner that is of interest to you as there is a damn great lamp post in the way. Make an offer that involves you getting what you need from that corner, which could be enforced via eg a covenant. Obvs if you get that the middle moves away from the wall so you can see more left. Question is how much you need, and how far back it has to go, given everything else. 9 The MFS has useful context words you can quote about how eg accidents coming out of driveways are very rare. May help you squeak through. And yes, I agree that once you have done enough research, it is worth having an assessment from a suitable consultant to see if you have a realistic case. (Update: on second thoughts I would just ask a Consultant for a 15 minute chat to 'quote', which I would make a fairly detailed chat, then be willing to pay say 300-500 for a short assessment report if they thought 'perhaps'. I would pay that to get more cetaintly and avoid the Planning Song.) @Sensus may shoot some of those down. F

Long edges yes, short edges no.

Well this one at Mr Resistor says it is plaster-in, trimless and fire-rated; worth a punt. There's also these ones that promise a retrofit option for seamless/trimless appearance. I'm skeptical it's really as simple as this video makes out https://tornado.co.uk/flush-trimless-plaster-wall-light-installation-guide-5

The key is the 'upto' statement, so up to 1:1 with water depending on desired colour. You can always lay the bricks in uncoloured mortar then rake the joints out and point up with coloured at the end or another day to use less.

I am posting this in case it is helpful to anyone on this site now or in the future. We have just had the last bit of asbestos removed from our 1960s bungalow and demolition is now able to commence. If you have asbestos it needs to be removed and disposed of appropriately. Some asbestos is not as bad (chrysotile for example) and can be dampened, double bagged in heavy duty polythene and taken to a tip that accepts asbestos (many don't). But if you have the bad stuff (we had amosite) it has to be put in sealed containers and shipped out properly and the work has to be done by licenced contractors. The Health & Safety Executive needs to be informed 14 days prior to work commencing. Our contractors did that for us. We suspected asbestos so got a couple of samples tested a year ago. One was chrysotile, the other was amosite (asbestos insulating board used on our soffits). At that point our demolition costs went up by a factor of 6 ? You need an asbestos survey before demolition. These are invasive and leave your house with holes everywhere (ceilings / walls). They can repair the damage and allow you back in once it is done but most surveyors we spoke to didn't recommend it. We moved out permanently before getting our survey. Sadly our survey showed up even more asbestos than we knew about. We knew about the soffit boards and the roof edging strips and the artex ceilings. We didn't know that every vertical wall strut in the outer walls of our timber frame 1960s "flat pack from the NEC" would be lined with a strip of asbestos. Our asbestos contractors have been in for a week in April and then again for most of May (had to give an additional 14 days notice to HSE for the newly found asbestos). First a protective plastic "bubble" was fitted around the house, encasing the soffits. Extract fans were placed to filter the air before extracting it to the outside world. An airlock of plastic encased boxes was built to the front of the house. A shower unit was permanently on site for the guys when they de-suited each day. The soffits were removed, then the house was sealed from the inside so the internal asbestos could be removed. At all times, all the guys working wore masks and full protective suits. After all was removed, an asbestos analyst attended to ensure that the air was clean and the asbestos was removed and all areas appropriately cleaned. A certificate of reoccupation was then issued to officially allow people to go back into the house without all the suits and masks. A contractor has done all this for us and we are glad that we haven't attempted any of this ourselves. They finished yesterday (though the chrysotile roof edging is still in place and will be taken off with the tiles). Some photos attached. Hope this is helpful to someone else.

Hello! I've just had some marble effect solid laminate worktops installed in our kitchen. I'm worried that the joints the fitter has done are really obvious and as this is our first house and first project, I wanted to seek some advice on anything we can do to fix them. Our kitchen is L-shaped and there are 2 joints - one to connect the two worktops at the top corner and one to extend the 3m worktop to 3.5m as we couldn't get the length we needed from the worktop provider (in hindsight, I wish I had shopped around and bought a 4m worktop length). Neither joint is discreet but the joint connecting the extension piece to the longer side is especially obvious. The joint is a dark line that stands out and I was expecting it to be colour matched to the white background of the marble pattern. I'm also worried that they have sanded away the adhesive and taken off the top of the worktop surface as there is a much brighter white area on either side of both joints. At this point, we have been without a kitchen for weeks so I would rather not replace the worktops even if this is a poor installation job.

for some reason we have a shortage of restaurants close to here ?

That's the sensible answer. Sadly, I don't think Highways are quite that logical.