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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/17 in all areas

  1. My thoughts on the above - not unreasonable list tbh and lots to be filled in by the architect - mainly by adding comments to drawings or the specification. REgarding "final building reg approvals is normally achieved well into the contract as relies lots on sub contractors input" - this is a bit of a red herring. You need to have your initial BW submission accepted by the BCO (for the mortgage and with amends as per above)- only once you have completed construction to you get a final signed off and habitation certificate.
    2 points
  2. Who prepared the Building Regs submission? If it was the SE then I agree sack him as nearly all of this should have been included!
    2 points
  3. I thought it was 6 months as well and as I was I out of work at the moment was very stressed. But bigger stress was that my Dad had just been in hospital for a triple heart bypass that had ended up with complications and ended up under anaesthetic for 8 days as they stablished him and a total of 14 days in hospital. I was about a month late and wrote a letter explaining the work stress and stress from my Dads operation as the reason for the late submission. Got cheque for full about with no questions asked. Restored my faith in HMRC in that there are some humans with compassion working there.
    1 point
  4. Nope. The pump for the air rad would cause cross circulation. UFH always needs isolating unless it's the only thing direct off the heat source, and thats only if it's an instant heater. A storage heater ( cylinder ) would still need a ZV to stop convection circulation occurring.
    1 point
  5. Ta. To the rescue as per usual! You mean like this? (There's an art to this, can't just start blindly slapping tiles on! )
    1 point
  6. I think he should just make some 6.973mm tile spacers (Waterjetted from 316 stainless...) and that would work fine and get rid of the cuts ....
    1 point
  7. I think a few slaps across the face may be in order. ? The fact is that nobody makes tiles to fit your bathroom. Get over it and you'll soon see that cuts are normal. On the window wall simply bring the two tiles in the centre together, then cut the mosaics out of the tiles. That'll give the illusion of continuity with the grout lines and give you bigger rips on the right hand side. You've just got too much going on in one room to be this particular, so compromise at least a little or you'll never get it tiled. Oh, and putting extra vertical strips of mosaic in instead of smaller cuts of tile will look ? I promise you. ??
    1 point
  8. Quickest way to make progress may be to go down the road to your closest architect or designer and hire him for half s day to sort out the boilerplate. That may address 80% of it. Much is just variations of statements such as 'Utility room ventilation to comply with Building Regulations Section X Subsection Y Para Z". These things just indicate compliance with the minimum, not precise specification. BCO will be interested in X doing the job according to regulation 23465, not that X is constructed of pre-pulverised trilithium which has survived being sat on by Donald Trump in a Gimp Suit . It will say u-value of 0.2 (say - i.e. Meets Building Regs minimum) for a wall even if it is a Passive House with 6ft of sheeps' wool.
    1 point
  9. I used gravel in the plastic grids, particularly for the free draining properties. Both for a car use area, and for a pedestrian access path - ok for wheelchairs. I bought grids backed with terram by Nidagravel, which were a bit more expensive at c. £10 /m2 IIRC, but very easy to use. The irritation is that the gravel size specified for the grids is very small and drifts a little on boots and tyres. I am planning to try a slightly larger size of chukkies [14mm] to see how they ride, and if they bed into the grids sufficiently. Generally pleased with the system.
    1 point
  10. Originally I was going to have the UFH within the 100mm concrete slab but due to Ill health and short timescales I had to settle for liquid screed laid afterwards and as our house is heavy weight I wanted the thickest screed I could to even out temp swings. I was informed 60mm is the thickest they recommend.
    1 point
  11. Item 35 is a requirement of the Regs but very rarely enforced. The actual wording is a bit vague - a full 20+ page report would look great but a simple, single paragraph statement has been accepted by BCOs. Perhaps keep statement short & simple and hope this satisfies BC.
    1 point
  12. I've got single Cat-5E to all of my rooms and an 8-port 1000/100 switch which happily runs the 1Gb enabled devices at 1Gbit. Maybe I should have used Cat 6 but my thinking was that I could happily run 5E at 1Gb over these sorts of distances so why bother? I've cabled up double thin satellite cables to all rooms (so that they can all support a 2 channel Freesat PVR) , but I am beginning to wonder if I will ever bother getting around to putting the face plates on. It seems just easier to stick a Humax MultiRoom PVR in the Services room where my cables will come in and them put the Humax streamers in any room where we need one.
    1 point
  13. Bloody hell. I thought you were actually tiling then ? Some of the grout lines differ slightly, and your missus will go nuts when she sees that pool table ?
    1 point
  14. I'd recommend watering down some flexible primer say 75/25% water/primer and applying it with a mop and bucket, literally saturating it to the point it's got puddles standing on the surface. Leave that soak in and dry. Then the primer gets mixed 50/50% and you apply that AS your tiling. I've done that on my current customers floors and mine are the only ones stuck to the original liquid screed. Other original tiles just lifted like a magic carpet.
    1 point
  15. I don’t like that small tile cut on the left of the main wall. I think you should move the wall
    0 points
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