Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/18/17 in all areas

  1. Can you remove a section that the skirting board will cover and remove the insulation to get a better look.
    2 points
  2. Our National Park issues a design guide - which when you read it/follow it basically says you can only build a Northumbrian stone farmhouse. As there is a planning committee, then I suppose in some ways its a community decision (though not all on the committee live in the National Park) However, I've no great disagreement with this as since you can still of course use modern materials (like SIPs in our case), double glazing etc (though many older homes here are insanely not allowed to retrofit double glazing, even if its in wooden sash windows which look identical to the rotten ones they replace - but you can bet the folks who made this rule live in warm economical-to-run homes themselves though) and the interior can of course be whatever you wish, and few if any Grand Designs type outer I've ever seen would just not work in this particular landscape. Unfortunately though it does also stop even little quirks like a salvaged small church window I wanted to use on one side. As you can see, they er, stuck rigidly to their own design rules when they built a new visitor centre.....
    1 point
  3. I have several versions, but the simplest one would be the easiest, as it doesn't rely on the energy measurement system that I have built-in to our supply point (in essence, I have a system that measures the true energy being imported/exported at our external meter box and transmits that data for use by the hot water system and the more sophisticated charge point). I'll post more info later.
    1 point
  4. Thats the same as the Timloc one I think. If it is, I’ve got spares I think but won’t know til the weekend.
    1 point
  5. Marley Cedral Lap in light oak, I’d have preferred the T&G Click system but they don’t do it in the wood effect colours. (Something to do with the paint not taking to the edge of the board or something - never made sense to me) Really happy with the Lap regardless, from a distance I’m not sure you can tell it isn’t T&G
    1 point
  6. Bear in mind that I'm running a non-Part G3 signed off sealed system, and have been through the hoops on this. If the temperature in the sealed system cannot reach that where there is a scalding risk, because of either design (in my case the same as @PeterStarck, a heat pump that cannot deliver more than 55 deg C even under fault conditions) or built in safety systems, then BCOs can, if shown the regulations (not the Approved Documents) agree that the system doesn't need certification.
    1 point
  7. I could do, in fact a part of it is already published, back from when I first designed a DIY charge point, and even back then it had a modulation input that allowed the available current pilot signal to be changed on the fly, as I was thinking ahead to adding the excess PV firmware (and it is just firmware, there's no change to the hardware, just a wireless serial data link plugged in to the board). I don't want to make money from it though, so I'm happy enough for anyone to just copy what I've done if they wish.
    1 point
  8. Looks like Jeremy blew it all on cocktails last week in his other post ?
    1 point
  9. I have a hostess trolley also, great storage! This a pic of the one he got us, my wife hates it and to be honest she's right ? Will google both these brands
    1 point
  10. No idea if any better but this is what I have from John Guest (fyi that really is a hostess trolley - so maybe we are not trend setters!)
    1 point
  11. Hammer, just smash the tile and take it out bit by bit.
    1 point
  12. I think our water regs frown on such an arrangement, certainly anywhere you are storing above a thimble full of water. The reason being is that your basically wasting clean fresh drinking water by design, and with an UVC it'll be with enough frequency and enough volume to warrant a design for the safe management and prevention of such waste. That's a provision for ( as we'd call it ) a hot return circuit ( HRC ) for the prevention of dead legs or delays in getting hot water to the furthest outlets from the cylinder. Dont connect the PRV to it as itcwont comply with G3 ( distances from D1 to tundish and tundish to D2 next invert etc. Also, don't connect the EV here as the water will be warm / hot. Connect the EV as per my earlier post, to the cold pipe AFTER the control group, teed in accordingly. Remember there can be no valves of any sort between the point that the EV is fitted and the cold connection into the UVC. The reason being that you must never be able to remove or isolate the means of expansion inadvertently or by a valve failure. I do, on larger installs with multiples of EV's, make a manifold and connectcall the EV's via locksheild gate valves for ease of isolation, testing and repressurising ( which have shrouds on the gate stem so have to be consciously opened or closed manually ) as they save the entire system being drained to carry out such maintenance, but I would not do this where there is only one. @PeterStarck Can you get a bent iron into that 1/2" brass plug and take a pipe horizontally to some internal space and fit the PRV there, and still get the case on ?
    1 point
  13. Sounds like absolute bollocks to me. Unless he's a suitably certified electrician, what qualifications does he have to be inspecting an electrical installation anyway? If it's getting out of hand, I think the only thing you can do is get your knowledge straight (eg, find some official sources of why what he's asking for is out of order), and then have an open conversation with him about it. Explain that you're not a developer, but a self-builder doing the very best job you can to make your house compliant with (and indeed beyond) the minimum required by buildings regs, and that his demands are impacting your ability to keep momentum going onsite. Maybe explore where he gets the idea that he should be inspecting electrical work, for example, or querying the use of approved building materials such as SIPs. I think the danger with piecemeal communications based on particular instances (eg, your text to him about electrical work) is that they don't go to the heart of the problem, and may be interpreted by him as something to be suspicious about. Good luck, however you choose to tackle it. Exactly what happened with us. I was stunned when our (private) inspector took a five minute poke around after first fix (actually, electrics weren't even half finished, from memory) and then said he'd be back once everything was completed.
    1 point
  14. I have mentioned in my design guide, that a way of building up a brief, or what you want, is to assemble a file, portfolio of images and references of likes and hates as well as must haves, desires and 'if the budget stretches to it' themes and thoughts, but you could approach the brief making with just descriptions and words. I daresay it depends how your mind works, and this is not the place to explore that, even I knew where to start. I've mentioned where this came from in another blog. Some years ago I was invited to to assist on a degree level Interior Design course, I was confronted with a group of final year students who had effectively been abandoned by a tutor who was stuck abroad and another who was having a nervous breakdown. The approach that had been set up for them was to identify a donor building which they could survey and measure, and decide what interesting and absorbing use they might explore, as a 5 month project...they hadn't achieved much. The new uses ranged from a high class hairdresser, an indoor BMX park with assocaited cafe and shop, a TV reception area, a micro brewery visitor centre, student accommodation with communal gathering spot, bistro/wine bars and so on. However rather than suggest that all retire to the library and select the latest trend, I suggested they grab good dictionaries and select descriptions plus opposites like loud and clangy to soft and calm. artificail lighting to naturally lit, bright to subdued and also to consider textures in the same vein. I know it does sound like 'just another over-the-top student project, but they mostly made huge progress. So you can approach early stages of your design the same way...rustic/modern, bold/receding, on the landscape/of the the landscape, dominant/reposing, brash/calm...make your own list, only with a dictionary! I expressed no opinion, helping with other source material and some detailing...I just enjoyed their enthusiasm and to see the challenge accepted...oh, the all passed, a bonus for all. See cargocollective.com/selfbuildhome for details of guide
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...