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Another productive day

If you don't go with mhrv how are you going to meet the ventilation regs for your house?? In my experience i would put it in just to get fresh clean air in the house. The fact it recovers heat is a bonus in my book.

I screw linings after pilot and countersinking all legs at the same time. It's slow but I like linings to be spot on. Watch out your not fixing linings where lock or hinges go. Recipe for blunt chisels. I would never screw the architraves on that just seems rough as hell to me. 2nd finish nailer all day. I've seen people do the whole set at time but seems to much agro to me. I go bang all the heads on then cut all legs. Leaving out rooms where flooring to be fitted first.

I bonded all our oak skirtings and architraves, with no screws of nails anywhere. I used mitre bond for the architrave frames, as suggested above, then bonded them all in place using the water based grip adhesive from Screwfix. Far, far better than the solvent based stuff, as it doesn't skin over and dry anywhere near as quickly. I've not had a problem with any of the 13 doors or any of the skirting - once it's bonded on it stays there. This is the grip adhesive I used: http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-11663102-solvent-free-grab-adhesive-white-310ml-12-pack/61428

You don't need a solicitor to do this for you - a utilities search can be done yourself. Premier Energy do them and the price starts around £100 plus the VAT

You can do it like this but I have found that one central fixing is just not enough,and allows cupping of the lining. I would much rather have two fixings and more filing.

Jason, knock the house down and start again. OR.... a small -tiny even- bead of lead which encourages the water downwind, downhill, before it gets to the edge of the roof (and thus invisible form the location from which the photo was taken.)

For the door casings, if you're using loose rebate laths, just screw fix behind where the laths will cover. No need for any filling then.

If you like big gaps between the skirt and the plaster, then yes ✌️️ I use a far thinner product, such as Sticks Like ? which you can easily depress / displace. Pink grip and Gripfill are notoriously difficult to do either with, and they also skin over within a minute or so, so not really suitable for skirts imo.

Mine is currently on loan, but you're welcome to be the next on the list to borrow it if you wish. @DH202020 has it at the moment, but it may be that he will have finished with it by the time you need to do some measurements. It's a Testo hot wire anemometer, fitted to a short duct that can be held over the terminals, one by one, like this:

More progress on the outside toilet front. First fix plumbing finished and tiles laid. The two 30 degree bends as suggested by our plumbing legend @Nickfromwales worked a treat.

Are we talking about a timber frame house or brick built. If timberframe go and buy that second fix nailer today you will not regret it. I think you are talking about three different jobs here. Door lining. Architrave. skirting. Doorlining. Screws and filler architrave. Second fix nailgun. Skirting. Second fix nail gun. I cant imagine screwing the skirting and filling all those holes.

I use this or this and never get yellowing. I always wipe the excess spray off, but with MDF or pine I've never had any issues. The spray will run out quicker than the glue so get some spare cans . For the skirting and arcs I would deffo hire a second fix nailer. The cost will be offset by the speed at which you can fix the arcs and skirts, plus the saving of not having to fill sand and re-finish them. Screwing them can cause them to be pulled in and create undulations in MDF, but not so problematic in pine / timber.

There are various nice oak and walnut doors available at reasonable prices, £150ish a door. I also found Todd Doors doing solid oak doors for less than £100 which is a great price. I plan to use JB Kind Mistral Walnut, Oak is also available. LPD Vancouver are similar. LPD Porto is a nice door but the smallest width is 610mm. I think these hardwood flush with maybe some grooves or shaker style doors represent the best value for money. One thing I found when choosing doors was it was hard to find ranges available in all the sizes I need, I am using metric sizes as they are taller, but they seem harder to get. This place gets good reviews and has some incredibly reasonably price solid oak doors, but I haven't seen them. https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/internal-oak-doors#/pageSize=30&viewMode=grid&orderBy=10&pageNumber=1 I have very nice oak look doors at the moment, but they are two panel with raised mouldings and they have more parts so are more prone to issues with delaminating, loose mouldings etc. They also gather more dust. A 2x610 bedroom door would look nice, but how would you work it, if you keep 1 door locked in place, 610mm is an uncomfortably narrow door to use in my opinion.

Use this to help keep your architrave nice and tidy. http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795 Lay the 3 cut pieces out on the ground/ anything flat using battens to keep them lifted up and use the glue to hold the bits together. Easier to have a few doors worth cut as the glue sets rock hard in under 30 secs. You can then lift the complete bit up and nail it with out the risk of your cuts opening up and looking untidy. Also works with external corners of skirting.

Pan connector goes onto the pan outlet. Pan outlet is the bit the pan connector goes on to. A frying pan is TOTALLY different.

While at the NSBRC at Swindon last week, I sat in on a lecture for self builders and having already done their 3 day course, I thought it would not be very interesting - heard it all before! However, the speaker was talking about the CIL and how self builders can avoid it but how easy is was to get caught out and end up paying the full mount, which in my area is £200 per square metre of build! I had forgotten this information and was glad to have been reminded. I thought it may be useful to remind everyone how they can avoid the charge - do not start ANY of the build till you ensure you have submitted the correct paperwork and the council have confirmed it is the correct form. I heard several stories of those who had not completed the form correctly; no one told them until it came to the end and they received a bill for the full amount. Self Build Exemption - Whole House Self-build Exemption Overview The Government is keen to support and encourage individuals and communities who want to build their own homes, and is taking proactive steps to stimulate the growth of the self-build market. One measure to help self-builders has been to grant them an exemption from the Community Infrastructure Levy. The exemption will apply to anybody who is building their own home or has commissioned a home from a contractor, house builder or sub-contractor. Individuals claiming the exemption must own the property and occupy it as their principal residence for a minimum of three years after the work is completed. Essentially, there are three types of self-build exemption: self-build exemption - for a whole dwelling [you are here] self-build exemption - for a residential annexe self-build exemption - for a residential extension Whole Dwelling You can apply for exemption from CIL if you are building your own home, and intend to live in it as the owner/occupier. To make a claim, you must: Assume liability to pay CIL certify that the scheme will meet the criteria to qualify as self-build development (using Form 7 Part 1) submit a Commencement Notice, before development commences within 6 months of completion, send us evidence to confirm the project is self-build (using Form 7 Part 2). This provides the evidence to confirm the project is self-build. The evidence must comprise: proof of the date of completion (building completion notice, compliance certificate), proof of ownership (a copy of the title deeds), and proof of occupation as your main residence (Council tax certificate, utility bills, bank statement, electoral roll). In addition, you must also provide a copy of one of the following: an approved claim from HMRC under VAT431C - VAT refunds for DIY house builders specialist self-build warranty approved self-build mortgage from a bank or building society Full details of what is required can be found on the forms. If this evidence is not submitted to the Council within the 6 month time period, the full levy charge becomes payable. Important Information It is important that you do not begin work until you submit your application for exemption and you receive notice from us with a decision. If you start any work, including digging foundations, your application for exemption will be refused. If you fail to submit a Commencement Notice before starting any work, then we will charge the full amount for CIL immediately. If you fail to submit the correct evidence on completion, then we will charge the full amount of CIL immediately. If you receive exemption, and then sell, or rent out, your home within 3 years of the house being completed, we will charge you the full CIL amount immediately. CIL is registered as a land charge and so if any of these disqualifying events occur within three years, we can revoke exemptions and the levy will then be due immediately. Be careful out there - they are after as much money they can get......

Thanks. That's filed under "101 uses for an old plant pot" That neatly solves my concerns about getting an accurate and more importantly repeatable reading. So I'll go and buy one of those cheap wind vane jobbies from ebay. probably this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Smart-Anemometer-For-Wind-Speed-Gauge-Meter-TemperatureHT-/401104748056?hash=item5d63b4be18:g:uscAAOSwgApXDOMa