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Right, take two ? Typed under the assumption you have a laser level. If you haven't, then buy one lol. Anyhoo... Id go landscape with that size tile but it's not my ( or your ) bathroom ( it's swmbos ) so see how that works out. . Your bath is the focal point, so you need to get the cuts looking good on that first. Ping a line around the room from the horizontal deck of the bath, and see where the bottom tile will end up at the shower corner, holding a tile on the line and counting down. Your right, you'll need to extend down past the floor / wall junction to reach the lowest point of the wet floor so see how that ends up looking. Once you have established a happy medium between the bath top edge, and the shower bottom edge you'll have a datum line for your first grout line from the floor. Use a tile to mark each grout line up the wall and then grab the laser and sit it on each line from floor to ceiling. Check the lines for conflicts with things you want to tile to / around, like the pocket shelves and raise lower it according to how much play your first line-out will allow. I always set the pocket shelves out, where possible, to be divisible between one or two tile courses, so you have factory edges to set the chrome trim against. See pic. Those trims are against the uncut tile edges and it makes life, and tiling, much easier and neater of you can work this all in together. Iirc, you've already made the boxes for the shelf to reside, so all the more important to carry out my first rule, which is to set out and ping lines around to get the best datum / start point, according to which one will NOT give you a tiny rip at the top of the bath or around the pocket shelf. After that, check the window for cuts and then repeat with the vertical, again checking that you'll not end up with any near misses or small slivers of tile. Make any sense?

That's an incredible amount of work in such a short period. Well done to you and Mrs Nod. Wish our build had progressed that rapidly!

Is it more appropriate to ask what a girl can stop doing in order to persuade hubby to start doing something? Both items could be hunting for tiles.

@oranjeboom Is it possible to have 2 u/f heating loops? - one loop for each part of the slab. That way you could design in enough of a gap to have a (safe) saw cut along the dividing line between the 2 areas. Edit: if you are planning on installing the bamboo flooring as a 'floating' floor on an underlay there should be enough tolerance in the build up to cover any minor cracking in the slabs at the junction between the 2 areas. Any type of hard flooring that is bonded to the slab is the type that really needs a movement joint.

Can you not use the one you have but continue your search and replace whenever you find the correct tile.

"I would love to use reclaimed concrete, Darling, but I have looked high and low on (list of 498 websites) without success. I need to finish this by date x so if you can find them by date y we can use them, otherwise we really need to use what we have. Good luck !"

But what choice do you have if you can't find the tile and a half tiles! You could strip the whole roof and start with new tiles! He art of a good marriage is compromise!

@Dee Sorry Dee, I didn't follow your earlier thread but the answer to your question is that clay tiles invariably weather better than concrete ones. By "weather" I assume you mean the colour of the tile changing over time. How long it would take to notice a difference would depend on the quality of the concrete tiles - some concrete tiles are through coloured and some only have the top surface colour coated. Edit: If your concrete tiles are old then they have probably done the majority of any colour change that they are going to do so you stand a better chance of the newly introduced clay tile still matching the colour of the concrete ones in 10 years time.

PM me any idiot questions and I'll ask for you. I have no shame!

Last resort...

My better half unrecognisable as her day job a hospital theatre manager

You can get a single ply membrane flat roof and a PVC profile which is stuck onto the roof to make it look like a metal standing seam roof which works out a huge amount cheaper. It's incredibly hard to tell the difference when it's on a single story roof and on a taller building like yours you'll never know. We installed it on a school in the west of Ireland facing the wild atlantic and it's holding up very well so wouldn't worry about durability. eg of a product 'Sika Decor Profile SE' and example pictures I found on Google.