Leaderboard

Shouldn't that be HWMO...???

Are there any guidelines on where boilers should be situated in terms of longest run to radiator or UFH manifold. Likewise the same for a DHW tank and its proximity to bathrooms/en-suites etc as well as to its heating source. My bungalow is a non-traditional design and can only be described as a Z stretched left to right with one block being living and the other being sleeping. This is probably aimed at Nick but welcome to others to contribute as always. Floor attached hopefully helps

LED hut now have 3 options for GU10 fitting (and possibly other but haven't look as I needed only GU10s Warm White (2700 Kelvin) Daylight (4000 Kelvin) Cool White (5000 Kelvin)

I can tell you that I left that stronger than when I got there. I cut below the top plate and above the lower one in order to get the cylinder in. One timber got cut only. The new support timber was sistered over the original piece which I reinstated, and the additional support timber was thicker and wider that the truss section that I cut out btw. It was fixed above the top plate ( into the roof rafter ) and below the bottom plate ( into the ceiling joists ) so I'll sleep as soundly tonight as I did last night. PL a-plenty but not needed it in over a decade ( when I took the policy out first ). I have a strict rule, don't touch it unless you can make it the same, or better. I strive for the latter in everything I do.

We're also a big fan of Megabad and also Reuterbad and nearly all of our bathroom and cloakroom fittings have beeen sourced from these two companies on line. Unfortunately, as has already been discussed they do not supply the 8cm Geberit frames (UP720 Cistern, GEBERIT Ref No111.729.00.1) , which we required and the best price available in the UK when we purchased was www.tradetaps.com. This is a repost post of my contribution of ebuild, which may be useful though the euro rate may not be as good today Posted 10 January 2015 - 03:04 PM POPULAR I haven't bought kitchen appliances from Megabad, but I have bought bathroom ceramics, bath and bathroom fittings/accessories (V&B, Duravit, Grohe,Geberit ) for 2 bathrooms and a cloakroom. Good service and terrific prices but strangely they don't seem to be competitive on shower enclosures, shower trays. There is another German supplier Reuter that my son has used Reuter http://www.reuter-shop.com/ - thiis is their English website, which is an advantage as I think Megabad have only a German language website and takes a bit longer to navigate ( though you can through Google Translate). There are dozens of German, Dutch and Belgian websites offering everything you might need.. There a some tips from my experience that may help: Plan carefully before you order and ensure that you ordering the exact Model No as you would buy in the UK (go to showrooms to choose your stuff and make detailed notes and get the catalogues) . It's not so much of a problem with ceramics, taps etc but it can be problematic with anything electrical. Two examples - I bought a Keuco Bathroom cabinet and it did not meet UK Wiring Regs for installation in a bathroom. My son bought a Grohe Red Duo boiling tap and it was German model, which did not meet WRSA regulations (one of which is that the highest temperature must be less than 99.5C ( if I remember correctly) Also, it came with different fittings and without the filter included with the UK version, which is why it was cheaper. One very good thing is that these two suppliers, and almost certainly all similar German suppliers, have very good and very efficient returns policies.My son returned it quickly, they sent him a Returns Label and instructions by email and received a full refund with no hassle. All the prices are in euros. I have a SAGA Credit card (no comments please...) that has no Non Sterling Transaction Fee (usually 2,75% for Visa and 3% for AMEX) and also charges best market exchange rates. So, this is an instant 2.75% savingover a normal credit card..... There are a few companies that offer this beneft - MoneyMarket,com comparison site is a good source Finally, it's good time to buy stufff, as pound sterling is very strong against the euro.at the moment .........

Have to say I like the design - it is almost a bent variation of the old countryhouse sleeping wing / public wing / stable block thinking, and even has a bit of a monastic feel. Ferdinand

We've gone with Geberit throughout, the frame needs to sit dead flush with the timber frame as the WC will bite into the wall if there is any gap. Just remember to order a set of wall anchors per loo (they come in packs of 2) as they don't come with the basic kit. We forgot and had to get them last minute from Amazon, about twice the Megabad price! https://www.megabad.com/hersteller-geberit-zubehoer-montageelemente-duofix-set-a-2878.htm

I would really be surprised if the trusses are that tightly designed that these holes have compromosed them too much and they need replacing. Lets hope they either agree it's okay, or agree an insitu repair like a strengthening plate.

HWMBO -- well that's a first!!

It's clearly not where the bulk of their target market is, as so very few low energy houses are built when compared to existing houses fitted with PV and combi boilers, so their focus on their core market is understandable. However, it is pretty easy to just install a low temperature "warm water" tank, heated by the ASHP, then use that to feed one or more Sunamp PV units. It doesn't need any complex fittings and the capacity and performance calculations are dead easy, well within the ability of any heating engineer. The only slightly out-of-the-ordinary requirement would be an immersion and time switch set to run an anti-legionella cycle every couple of weeks. A standard UVC, run at an efficient ASHP temperature of, say, 40 deg C, would have pretty low losses, around half the normal standing loss I would think. This could provide the bulk of the hot water requirement, with one or more Sunamp PV units only being used to add an additional 5 to 10 deg to the warm water to bring it to a usable temperature. The Sunamp PV would be, in effect, a boost heater, used only on demand.

Very encouraging to hear they're following demand / varying solutions so quickly. My sales pitch may soon be swaying to off grid PV and Sunamps / stacks. I'll be watching this intently and may soon break radio silence with them myself for the tech side.

Yes, pretty much any small split should do the job. There are loads available that are aimed at those with hot conservatories, and they are often cheap and around the right capacity to cool the whole of a well-insulated and sealed house. You can also get multi-splits, one external unit and several internal units, that may still end up being more cost effective that using an MVHR with a relatively low cooling capability. Our Genvex Premium 1L does not provide a massive cooling capability in practice, as, like all MVHR heating/cooling systems it is very limited by the duct airflow rates, so can only really trim the room temperatures a bit, not remove a few kW of heat from solar gain at all. You could make a normal MVHR at least as effective as one with a heat pump in if a cooling/heating exchanger was added to the room air feed main duct. These are water-fed, using chilled or heated water from the ASHP, so are easy to plumb in and control. There's no need to mess around with refrigerant, you just run a flow and return water pipe to the duct heat exchanger. If you fit a duct heat exchanger with a built in condensate tray (like this one: http://www.veab.com/documents/cwk/broschyr/CWK_VEAB_Heat_Tech_GB.pdf ) One of those duct coolers fitted into the main duct from a normal MVHR would provide the same sort of performance as the MVHR units with the built-in heat pumps, but at a lot lower price if you already have an ASHP. FWIW, we find that by far the most effective way of getting rid of excess heat from solar gain is to just cool the floor slightly. I've been cooling our floor to around 19 deg C and that has a massive impact on keeping the house cool, far, far greater than using the Genvex in cooling mode. The reason it's so effective is that it absorbs a fair bit of the solar gain at source, from the sun trying to heat up areas of the floor, by swiftly moving that heat out before the floor has a chance to warm up and start warming up the house. It doesn't make the floor cold to walk, either, my other half tends to walk around on the travertine flooring in bare feet and reckons that at 19 deg C it doesn't feel at all uncomfortable.