Besidethewye

Cutting back airtightness tape around window frames

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Hi there

 

just in the process of putting plasterboard in the window reveals and finding that the taping is somewhat variable....

 

In some places the tape will be hidden by plasterboard but in most it sticks out well beyond the board.  Some of it might disappear behind skim but I am not sure how well that would work on tape.  We don't have the space to put another board on without fouling the window opening (inwards).

 

Is there a foolproof technique to cut back the tape that's generously stuck to the wooden (pre-finished) window frames and clean away the very sticky residues?

 

Appreciate any advice (other than make them more careful with the application of the tape which is true but redundant) :)

 

Cheers

 

 

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maybe an appropriately sized quadrant bead?

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A picture would be helpful!

 

Sounds like you're planning to trim back the edge of the tape to the board level, in which case a sharp craft knife or art scalpel would do the trick. It will scrape through to the wood but that should be covered by the 2-3mm of skim.

 

As for removing the adhesive, I found the impregnated wipes quite good at removing most things, you can also buy them as a spray.  

 

What's the finish on the wood? You'll obv risk removing some of that too - can you get a touch up kit?  

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I'm interested in this. We have two windows where the airtightness tape is visible. As you say, glue is supersticky on the lacquered wood so I've left it for now! 

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Sticky stuff remover is your friend if you can find any, not seen it on sale for some time and we use what we have left only for essential tasks.

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Methylated spirits works as well.  I used a craft knife to slice the tape then cleaned it down.  A small bead of caulk then finished the edge. 

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Tried everything for removal....sticky stuff, wd40, meths, god knows what else.  Its very difficult to remove if its been on any length of time.  I think I paid two labourers the equivelant of a weeks wages each (over a period) just working on this.  I still have some left on and I am gradually working away at it trying to get it off without damaging the factory finish paint on the frames.  Mind numbing stuff,

.

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52 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Sticky stuff remover is your friend if you can find any, not seen it on sale for some time and we use what we have left only for essential tasks.

our local b&q have it.

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Not quite the same but a warning to remove tape on window frames when they are installed like it says. We left ours on for protection while the build was still going on and it was the nightmare from hell trying to remove it afterwards once the UV had cured it. I ended up scraping it off a mm at a time with an old credit card. Nightmare job! No chemicals I tried touched it, and I tried a few. 

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Thanks all - a few things to try....

 

Sadly it's been on a good while for a variety of reasons that I won't go too far into.

 

Attached a couple of pictures.  We did try peeling it back and scraping off the glue - but it was such fun that is what sent me to the forum....

 

Windows are prefinished and it feels pretty vulnerable

 

As an aside it's hard not to worry about relying on the tape - it's surprisingly easy to put holes in it - in particular where it's stretched across corners - I made the mistake of running my finger along one area and left a nice cut along the length with my nail (and the nail is more building site than catwalk). 

1-P1100285.JPG

1-P1100286.JPG

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I hate doing this sort of job, so Mrs Punter is assigned to the task, equipped with https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-commercial-sticky-stuff-remover-1ltr/8648x#_=p

 

I think it may be easier for you to unscrew the plasterboard so you can get to the tape more easily. You could use something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-window-scraper-3/56292#_=p to help, but careful not to gouge.

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How about removing the plasterboard and packing out behind it with a sheet of 6mm ply then putting plasterboard back. That looks like it would cover the tape and still leave clearance on the windows.Who was it that taped the windows as it is a pretty basic error to over tape the windows.

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I carefully trimmed with stanley knife and removed excess Plus as per suggestion above, 3mm board should do it OK.

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17 hours ago, Alex C said:

How about removing the plasterboard and packing out behind it with a sheet of 6mm ply then putting plasterboard back. That looks like it would cover the tape and still leave clearance on the windows.Who was it that taped the windows as it is a pretty basic error to over tape the windows.

 Thanks Alex - sadly the tape wanders in an out so much that we can't hide it all - but we may be able to hide some like that!  The guys who put up the frame did the taping - it's hardly the first one they've done so not quite sure how it ended up like that.

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Posted (edited)

I would be having a word with the installer. It looks like an MBC build and as you say hardly the first taping job they have done. They should not have gone more than 10mm onto the frame. I have the same build and same windows. As a word of warning those windows ding really easily with the corner of a plasterers trowel. I would advise covering the frames as much as possible, brief the plasterers properly and keep a really careful eye on whats going on.

Edited by Alex C

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Alex - it is MBC and yes these windows are fragile as a fragile thing - the window installers left a trail of dings and dents that made it clear just how careful we would have to be.  Of course the windows have a certain (and variable) amount of clearance around them back to the reveals so even 10mm would not have guaranteed no overlap anywhere - but it would have gone a long way towards it!

 

Thanks for the advice

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If the reveals wander off level they must be packed out when installing plasterboard as you need to get the reveals square to the windows (which should be bang on level) otherwise it will be really obvious. You cant just follow the line of the mbc openings as they will not always be square or centered on the windows.

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2 minutes ago, Alex C said:

If the reveals wander off level they must be packed out when installing plasterboard as you need to get the reveals square to the windows (which should be bang on level) otherwise it will be really obvious. You cant just follow the line of the mbc openings as they will not always be square or centered on the windows.

No that's clear - we have a range of degrees of out of true and a variety of spacings around the windows.  Been debating how much out of true someone will see - I know I see it even if it's very little but not everyone is quite so critical.  Do not get me started on the window fitting. 

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You are not alone on terrible internorm installations. I had a drama that lasted over a year. A builder I was working for once said to me that if windows dont go in right first time with no damage, they will never be sorted properly. He was dead right, the problem being the installers are not able to solve problems or rectify issues as they are simply not skilled enough. I had four Magic Man and Plastic Surgeon repair teams and only one individual had the skill to fix damage, the others just made it worse.

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+1 for terrible Internorm installations ...and still not sorted. 

 

Those of you with Internorm problems did you get all your sign off and warranty docs from installer or Internorm.  I've had nothing from anyone.  I refused to pay the balance of the bill - it was their fitting fee - I have used that towards rectification work.  Could that be why no docs?  Darren Long at Internorm was involved for a while Thomas Hagen too busy to come etc etc.

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A good magic man is worth his weight in gold. Hard to find now, as the good ones are all getting on. I doubt that the younger ones will stick at it very long.

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I never got warranty documents as I refused to pay the final instalment. To be honest I think the warranty would be worthless judging by the terrible service by both ecoHause Internorm and also the lack of input from Internorm themselves. They are great windows but I would not recommend anyone to use Internorm or ecoHause Internorm.

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3 minutes ago, Alex C said:

I never got warranty documents as I refused to pay the final instalment. To be honest I think the warranty would be worthless judging by the terrible service by both ecoHause Internorm and also the lack of input from Internorm themselves. They are great windows but I would not recommend anyone to use Internorm or ecoHause Internorm.

Ah and they told me that they only had satisfied customers.....mine was a one off aberration - odd that

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Could you double board the bad ones with another strip of plasterboard.  Measure out to where the tape ends and use either a 6mm or 9mm strip.  Use expanding foam to hold hit in place.  Might help with sorting out how of Square they are.  As above if they are badly out your eye will notice it every time you look that way so it needs fixed if you couldn't live with looking at that all the time. Don't forget about a bead of caulk as well. 

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