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Track saw uses during a self build.


epsilonGreedy

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Track/Plunge saws are the tool of the moment on YouTube though here on BuildHub they do not get so much focus. Is this because track saws are more relevant to serious DIYers with permanent carpentry workshops and/or odd job tradesmen?

 

I could do with one now to knock up 20 door panels (600mm x 500mm) for my under static caravan skirting however before parting with my cash I was wondering where a track saw could be put to good use later in a build.

 

This is my list so far:

  1. Trimming first floor 8x4 flooring sheets to size.
  2. Kitchen fitout e.g. counter top trimming.
  3. Alcove cupboard fitout in MDF.
  4. Any ply sheet trimming during a bathroom fit out.
Edited by epsilonGreedy
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I can’t justify one - I borrow a Festool one from a joiner for the price of a 4 Pack when I need it. I do have some neat clamps that can span a full board and act as a rail and they have multiple uses. 

 

For repetitive stuff and where you want accuracy, as your local timber merchants to cut to size or get a B&Q Trade Card and get the sheet stuff via them - works out just as cheap as trying to do it myself. 

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yes i bought a straight edge thats a clamp as well --fine for 4ft cut --but not long enough for other way

www.onbuy.com/gb/clamps-and-vices/silverline-guide-clamp-1270mm-675056-guide-clamp-silverline-675056-1270mm~c5692~p3373033/

but neither are normal  track saw unless you buy more extensions

hardly the end of the world to clamp a bit of studding to a sheet anyway 

Edited by scottishjohn
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I just use a long length of 50mm x 8mm aluminium bar as a straight edge.  Had it for years and use it for everything where I need some sort of cutting guide, from guiding a knife when scoring PB to use as a general marking out or saw guide.  Clamped to a bit of board it's easy to just run a circular saw along it, with the base plate pushed up to the edge.  Only thing to watch is the height of the clamps.  I made up some low profile ones from some 1" aluminium  bar, as the clamps need to be able to duck under the saw motor.

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I have a festool one I use for all fine carpentry, just been doing a worktop. O have the festool rails as well these connect together so I can get to about 3.6 meters. They also have under clamps that allow you to clamp the ends. I have to say that getting them dead staight does require another straight edge during set up as although they are well made and I keep mine in a purpose made box they are about 250 wide and 1.4M long so you can be mm out if you are a fraction out of square at the join. 

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Dewalt have a cheap plunge saw 

for around 250 It will do the job 

I think I paid around 700 for Hilti about ten years back It’s had some abuse cutting vent boards But still going strong 

You can’t put a price on those pinky’s 

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22 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

I have a festool one I use for all fine carpentry, just been doing a worktop. O have the festool rails as well these connect together so I can get to about 3.6 meters. They also have under clamps that allow you to clamp the ends. I have to say that getting them dead staight does require another straight edge during set up as although they are well made and I keep mine in a purpose made box they are about 250 wide and 1.4M long so you can be mm out if you are a fraction out of square at the join. 

not sure how many want to pay the price for a long track --£200 ?

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I have a Makita rail saw. It was used to cut Fermacell wall board with a vacuum attached. One of the labourers cut through the edge of one of the rails so they now only work nicely for 1400 long cuts. Quite a good tool but it is mains powered and comes in a big makpac case so good if you set yourself up to do a fair bit with it, otherwise a cordless with a fence works for most things.

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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Cheap one in @Onoff favourite store... Here

 

 

And the same model used in Tracksaw Workshop series by Peter Millard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JQjGwZT3Ak

 

However in the Triton/Workzone tracksaw comparison he favours the Triton because of the peculiar non standard Workzone/Scheppach track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZGt_LqR5O8

 

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54 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

Makita Guide Rail Adapter B – 195838 7 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DF6TUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KAyCCb98TND8E

 

Well worth the money. Only time I actually use the real plunge saw is for cutting out sinks

 

 

Ok this presents a new option. Are you suggesting buying a regular Makita circular saw and then coupling this with the adapter and a decent 1.4m single piece rail? 

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The real question is:  How many long rips are you likely to need to make in a typical self-build?

 

At a guess, I'd say there were less than a couple of dozen times when I needed to cut long rips in boards, and most of those were flooring, where a guide on the saw made far more sense than trying to set up a rail..

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Exactly. It fits on my cordless in seconds. Mark both sides of the board 

(no messing about with offsets) put the rail on, makita rail in my case. No need to clamp it usually and then cut. 

 

Edit: I do also have an adaptor for my big saw as well. Just make sure you get the right one for your model of saw

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1 minute ago, JSHarris said:

The real question is:  How many long rips are you likely to need to make in a typical self-build?

 

At a guess, I'd say there were less than a couple of dozen times when I needed to cut long rips in boards, and most of those were flooring, where a guide on the saw made far more sense than trying to set up a rail..

I do have 3 rails for when I was cutting up the tree. But usually I just use one. Even on a long rip I just move the rail along

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Like others I use a aluminium rail, I use it with my jigsaw and circular saws and  it doubles up as my “long” straight edge for levelling and marking. I got this bad boy for £30 ex demo but new they are over £60...... when breaking down sheets the clamps are great as it’s quick and easy.  It will outlast me if I don’t do anything stupid with it........ 

1B951DDD-F06B-4850-BF7F-5DF3570F253B.jpeg

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