Pete Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 3 hours ago, Construction Channel said: Not at all. But that just means you move the accurate stud 1200 along the wall. Edit: one small issue is it tends to leave light switches on the joint but electricians moan anyway so hey ho @ProDave never moans!! (Well go on then, just a little bit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 13 minutes ago, Pete said: @ProDave never moans!! (Well go on then, just a little bit) Yes the regs say max height for switch 1200mm Room height is 2400mm. What idiot builder decides it is a good idea to put all the dwangs (noggins) half way up? Quite a few I had to knock out and move a little higher to get the switches where I wanted them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 3 minutes ago, ProDave said: Yes the regs say max height for switch 1200mm Room height is 2400mm. What idiot builder decides it is a good idea to put all the dwangs (noggins) half way up? Quite a few I had to knock out and move a little higher to get the switches where I wanted them. You could put them at 1150 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 17 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: You could put them at 1150 ? No, I think 1200 is ridiculously low, I want them as high as allowed. In the good old days it was 53" to the bottom of the light switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 4 minutes ago, ProDave said: No, I think 1200 is ridiculously low, I want them as high as allowed. In the good old days it was 53" to the bottom of the light switch. A friend of mine had two sets of boxes fitted when he built his house, one set was Part M compliant, the other was where he really wanted them, higher switches and lower outlets. He covered the unused ones with lining paper and just base coated all the walls for the completion inspection. Once the house was signed off his electrician came back and fitted all the switches and outlets in the papered-over boxes, with the now unused ones being filled and painted over... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I love the Part M heights. As I go through my place I'm changing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I can't say they really bother me. I find it more entertaining to watch our electricians moan... EVERY TIME ?. I have a reason to put the noggin that height. He just wants to put his switch there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 38 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: I can't say they really bother me. I find it more entertaining to watch our electricians moan... EVERY TIME ?. I have a reason to put the noggin that height. He just wants to put his switch there. So don't put it there. Put it a little higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 24 minutes ago, ProDave said: So don't put it there. Put it a little higher. But if I put it higher it won't catch both boards (assuming I want to lay them landscape). Where you put the socket is personal preference. In theory you could put them anywhere below 1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 mark out head and sole as a pair, cut studs to length.clamp studs together, mark out position of dwangs. cut dwangs/noggins to size, use dwangs/noggins as spacer to place studs place, fix studs and fix dwangs to position. lift, wedge partition to position fix and clad. btw it's the same for joists, first 50mm from wall, second 400/600mm from wall to centre and 400/600mm c/c thereafter unless trimming an opening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 20 hours ago, Onoff said: [...] Be careful with the next walls coming off at 90deg you'll want to consider the plasterboard thickness at the start. [...] Thanks for the warning. Not thought about a corner yet, but I will be next week. Whats the issue, and how is it solved? I feel another sketch coming on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 49 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: Thanks for the warning. Not thought about a corner yet, but I will be next week. Whats the issue, and how is it solved? I feel another sketch coming on. Some people will build all their studs and do a stud wall coming off of it perpendicular. They then pb the first wall but haven't accounted for the thickness of the pb. Also need to plan how you support the ends of the respective wall's pb at these junctions. Say below you'd built the stuff first, unsupported ends etc, more cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Might be best to go 400 centres in your case. At least if you make a mistake setting out studs your not wasting too much of a board. Ie using just over 800 no instead of just over 600mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Also, if your cutting is a neat as mine you'll want to arrange to bury the cut edges “inside” the joins wherever practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 14 hours ago, Simplysimon said: Mark out head and sole as a pair, Cut studs to length. Clamp studs together, Mark out position of dwangs. Cut dwangs/noggins to size, Use dwangs/noggins as spacer to place studs place, Fix studs and fix dwangs to position. Lift, wedge partition to position fix and clad. btw it's the same for joists, first 50mm from wall, second 400/600mm from wall to centre and 400/600mm c/c thereafter unless trimming an opening .... working towards a pinnable list.... Thanks @Simplysimon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 4 minutes ago, Ed Davies said: Also, if your cutting is a neat as mine you'll want to arrange to bury the cut edges “inside” the joins wherever practical. I saw a YouTube video published by an Aussie tradesman, he fitted a plasterboard cutting disc to his track/plunge saw. Sounds like an eco/health disaster in the making though I imagine the end result was neat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Hmm, @Onoff, what happens here then? Wont the right hand edge of the left-to-right PB 'float' at the yellow circle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 18 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said: I saw a YouTube video published by an Aussie tradesman, he fitted a plasterboard cutting disc to his track/plunge saw. Sounds like an eco/health disaster in the making though I imagine the end result was neat. I've always cut PB with a Stanley knife and straight edge, and noticed that the guys boarding our house out did the same. Just score the board, snap it, then run the knife down the paper on the remaining side. Quick, easy, very little mess and relatively clean edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 11 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: Hmm, @Onoff, what happens here then? Wont the right hand edge of the left-to-right PB 'float' at the yellow circle? Put another stud in. Or when you made it in the first place you put the one it just misses to the left a bit as long as it still works fine on the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 42 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: Wont the right hand edge of the left-to-right PB 'float' at the yellow circle? Isn't that Onoff's point, another reason to think ahead and not just follow the centre spacing slavishly? 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Also need to plan how you support the ends of the respective wall's pb at these junctions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 42 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: Hmm, @Onoff, what happens here then? Wont the right hand edge of the left-to-right PB 'float' at the yellow circle? Yes, that's what I was getting at with the drawing. The right to left also the same problem. 35 minutes ago, JSHarris said: I've always cut PB with a Stanley knife and straight edge, and noticed that the guys boarding our house out did the same. Just score the board, snap it, then run the knife down the paper on the remaining side. Quick, easy, very little mess and relatively clean edges. Same here. I do score against a metal straight edge though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 1 minute ago, Ed Davies said: Isn't that Onoff's point, another reason to think ahead and not just follow the centre spacing slavishly? Exactly! When I've cocked up like this before I've added a bit of 2'x2' to support the floating and. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 I’ve either doubled up or come back 40mm, turned the next stud on edge and screwed it to the first, and then put another stud so you end up with a square “U” shape. The perpendicular then builds off this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Tbh @Onoff corner is wrong, you need to construct a 3 stud corner i will try to explain the first straight wall will have another wall that intersects it, like a T, you need to know this point at this junction of the two walls you put 2 studs with a gap in between equal to the width of the wall that will be intersecting so your studs come along all nicely at 600 centres then you have 2 studs with a 90mm gap between them, turn a couple of off cuts of stud sideways between the 2 studs that are set 90mm apart this makes your 3 stud corner. Pic to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 4 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Tbh @Onoff corner is wrong, you need to construct a 3 stud corner That's why @Onoff drew it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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