Crofter Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 I'm replacing the old timber single glazed windows in my 1970s house, and whilst I am happy enough with the idea of fitting the new ones myself, what terrifies me is that I might measure up wrongly and end up with thousands of pounds worth of windows that don't fit!! In my new build it was all very easy really because I bought the windows and then built the house around them. What's the best way to measure up- and just how accurate do I need to be? Do I take the visible internal size and add a bit. Or likewise from the external size? Or, for sake of peace of mind, should I just remove all the surrounds now and measure directly? Might not go down too well with SWMBO! Whilst on the subject, I think self-install is going to be less hassle than dealing with big name double glazing companies. I've barely started this project and I'm losing the will already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 I dug out whatever to get to the outside of the wood frame and measured there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thedreamer Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Single glazing, are those the original windows from the 1970s then? What sort of spec are you going for? I rented a property with single glazing when I was a student in the North East it wasn't thermal properties that scared me it was how fragile the glass was and the fact that the garden had barb wire and broken glass on the walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 If you want to be totally sure Mesure them all tight Knock 10 mill off your mesure and cut a slate baton for the height and width for each and check them out A bit of time But a lot more reassuring than a tape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 How are the current ones fitted- are they IN the cavity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 You can see where I chipped off the render at the sides to get the width: Then the drawing I gave to the guy who fab'd the window: Wedging and foaming: As ever, helped at every step of the way by the good folk on here! Homemade wedges were invaluable. Rather than expanding foam I'd use Compriband next time as I did on the second window I did. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 9 hours ago, Crofter said: [...] What's the best way to measure up- and just how accurate do I need to be? [...] I measured with laser (three spots in each window: i.e. 6 measurements per opening), checked with tape, asked SWMBO to walk round with me and double check and record. To the mm. Three separate times. I was similarly completely terrified (The bill was £33k) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 33 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: I was similarly completely terrified Make that everyone buying windows on a supply only basis I think ?. It’s equally terrifying when you are ordering them from plans! We must have got on the TF company’s nerves as we asked them to double check and confirm measurements at least twice. My OH put a window schedule together in a spreadsheet with the measurements to give to the supplier. I then checked it after the TF company had checked it. Always get someone else to check something like this. It’s very easy to miss your own mistakes even when you think you’ve checked things thoroughly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I'd combine the above advice and chip a tiny bit of plaster off like what @Onoff did and then measure and check multiple times and get someone with you. The reason I'd chip off a bit of plaster is you'll find some of the windows only have a 3-4mm thin plaster layer while others can have 30-40mm. At least that's what I found on my 1970's house when replacing the glazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 (edited) A recent survey we did External measurements Width: 2550mm Height: 2110mmInternal measurements Width: 2520mm Height: 2065mmOrder Size: Width: 2530mm Height: 2100mm This was achieved by measuring external size in 3 places and using the smallest, repeated inside and then deducting 10mm from the external measurements. Always measure from underneath the external sill. Edited January 15, 2019 by craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 11 hours ago, nod said: If you want to be totally sure Measure them all tight, knock 10 mm off your measure and cut a baton for the height and width for each and check them out A bit of time, but a lot more reassuring than a tape What a bloody good idea. And it's one eejits like me can use in all sorts of situations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 OK so I've chickened out and have asked a local joiner to help me take the measurements. Better safe than very very sorry! Btw I've had a few quotes come in now and it appears I can get everything in 3G for about £2k (supply only). The big name window company who were visiting the other day quoted seven times that amount, for 2G of unspecified performance. OK so that was supply + install, but still! All they seemed to want to talk about was finance options- probably a sign of where they make much of their profit margin... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Crofter said: OK so I've chickened out and have asked a local joiner to help me take the measurements. Better safe than very very sorry! Btw I've had a few quotes come in now and it appears I can get everything in 3G for about £2k (supply only). The big name window company who were visiting the other day quoted seven times that amount, for 2G of unspecified performance. OK so that was supply + install, but still! All they seemed to want to talk about was finance options- probably a sign of where they make much of their profit margin... Get a data sheet for each quote. The range of 3G is massive. You can get 3G that's so poor a good 2G is better. When comparing make sure you compare the u-value for the window and not the glass. A lot of sales people give you the u-value of the glass only as it's a lot better than the full window (frame and glass) to make their product look better. If in doubt ask us to help compare them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 Yes that's a very valid point. uW rather than uG is the most important figure. I'm tending to weed out any companies that solely cite WER values, although I believe that A++ is a passable level of performance. (You'd be amazed at the number of companies who claim that 'A rated' is 'the highest possible rating'... have they never heard of A+, or A++, or are they just lying?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novice Becky Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Hope it's ok to pick up this old discussion or am I supposed to start a new one? I'm measuring for replacement windows and I've been putting it off as I can't find anyone to install only (I supply) ... looks like I'll have to learn how to DIY and rope in some friends. It's just two windows down the side of my 1960s bungalow (plus a composite front door - on another discussion). I replaced all the other windows 15 years ago. I think I'm going for timber frame, triple glazed from Russell Timber. They're good value and look pretty similar to my other (expensive) windows. QUESTION: when measuring do people take off 10mm all round, so subtract 20mm from both the height and width? There's no rendering, just brick, so I've measured from brick-to-brick on the width and on the height I did from mortar under the brick at the top to the bottom of the sill (see photos). I'll use the smallest measurements. @nod sounds like you've done this lots. Any advice? Or any recommendations of builders/window fitters near J9 of M25? FENSA installers won't do it. Local builder quoted £1750 to fit 2 small windows and a composite front door (I supply windows and compriband and air-tightness tape). Sounded a lot to me. Thanks for helping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Hi @Novice Becky I would go for 20mm off width and height. You may find the Russell delivery charges quite high as they ship from Glasgow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novice Becky Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Thank you @Mr Punter. Yes, you're right ... delivery is £500! But the windows (3G) and door were £2300 which works out good value compared to everything else I looked at. If I went for the same windows I have elsewhere it would be £6k+ plus install. Very open to suggestions. The quote is from the summer so I'm going to have to get a new quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 2 hours ago, Novice Becky said: Hope it's ok to pick up this old discussion or am I supposed to start a new one? I'm measuring for replacement windows and I've been putting it off as I can't find anyone to install only (I supply) ... looks like I'll have to learn how to DIY and rope in some friends. It's just two windows down the side of my 1960s bungalow (plus a composite front door - on another discussion). I replaced all the other windows 15 years ago. I think I'm going for timber frame, triple glazed from Russell Timber. They're good value and look pretty similar to my other (expensive) windows. QUESTION: when measuring do people take off 10mm all round, so subtract 20mm from both the height and width? There's no rendering, just brick, so I've measured from brick-to-brick on the width and on the height I did from mortar under the brick at the top to the bottom of the sill (see photos). I'll use the smallest measurements. @nod sounds like you've done this lots. Any advice? Or any recommendations of builders/window fitters near J9 of M25? FENSA installers won't do it. Local builder quoted £1750 to fit 2 small windows and a composite front door (I supply windows and compriband and air-tightness tape). Sounded a lot to me. Thanks for helping 5 mil all round it perfect for face brick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 34 minutes ago, nod said: 5 mil all round it perfect for face brick Could be a real faff if finishing with compriband. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 minute ago, jayc89 said: Could be a real faff if finishing with compriband. Hence my 10mm suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger440 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 6 hours ago, Mr Punter said: Hi @Novice Becky I would go for 20mm off width and height. You may find the Russell delivery charges quite high as they ship from Glasgow. Are we talking about these guys: https://www.russellwindowsystems.co.uk/services/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 10 hours ago, Roger440 said: Are we talking about these guys: https://www.russellwindowsystems.co.uk/services/ No, https://www.russelltimbertech.co.uk/windows-doors-ranges but quite confusing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novice Becky Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Yes, it's the Russelltimbertech one. Thanks for this, people. Really helpful. I think I'll go for 10mm all round (so 20mm on each dimension) as I want to use Compriband (or equivalent) and airtightness tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Wow has this really been five years!? In the end I took off all the surrounds inside and measured up directly. The local joiner who I asked to check my measurements never showed up so I just had to take the plunge. Everything fitted perfectly. Getting the old windows out was by far the hardest part of the job. A recip saw would have been a huge help. I did try using a multi tool but the depth of cut just isn't there and you only get a few nails done with each blade, at about a fiver a go. The most fun part was turning the kitchen window in to French doors. Very satisfying. A few years prior I wouldn't have dreamt of doing all this work myself but it's amazing what you can do when you just roll up your sleeves and get on with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 6 hours ago, Crofter said: The most fun part was turning the kitchen window in to French doors. Very satisfying. A few years prior I wouldn't have dreamt of doing all this work myself but it's amazing what you can do when you just roll up your sleeves and get on with it. Very true. The first time I converted a window to French doors, back in the nineties, I was so pleased. I did have my helper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now