Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
19 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Add don’t subtract ..!! You’ve got another 6-7 courses to go, make the beds a bit thicker and you’ll lose the problem. 

 

Ta. Food for thought. I'll look tomorrow at what's what.

 

20190908_190259

 

Posted

Next question, the flint infills. Got to decide yet whether to knap them, I likely will. (Got to make some boppers).

 

I seem to recall somebody saying to use lime mortar as ordinary opc will shrink away from them leaving them loose.

 

B&Q seem nearest for lime: 25kg for £11. (TP want £19 for the same bag!)

 

https://www.diy.com/departments/blue-circle-hydrated-lime-25kg-bag/35712_BQ.prd

 

Any pointers on using it as in back to basics, what do I do with it? Mix with sand if so what sort? Consistency I'm looking for? 

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted (edited)

Filling these pillars...

 

I've 1 jumbo bag each of:

 

- 10mm pea shingle

- All in ballast 

- Sharp sand

 

That I'm keen to use up.

 

I've also approx 10 bags of plastic bagged Rugby cement. Out of date by a good while. Basically I ordered a load a while back and 3 bags were split (when I did the bathroom floor I think). By way of compensation they sent me 1/2 a pallet's worth that I couldn't use. I'd like to use it up but if not it'll find a home in a mate's over site for his extension.

 

I was even considering pouring in a couple or 3 of those expanding foam post hole fillers you see on YouTube. One worry there is I might get lots of condensation on the face of the pillar.

 

Is the old cement a goer?

 

 

 

Edited by Onoff
Posted (edited)

I believe there is a recipe for this gatepost in Macbeth...

 

(Personally I would spend the £20 on the new cement for an erection this important. You would not want it to be cut off in its prime if hit by a Mrs Bobbit in a car.)

Edited by Ferdinand
Posted

I had same issue, 5 rendered block pillars built around steels. As there were lots of cables in the cavity for lights and sensors, didn't want to risk damage pouring a heavy wet mix in there.

 

I had a jumbo bag of sand and a few bags of cement so made up a dry mix (5:1) and back filled bucket by bucket. Has all gone off now and is fairly solid.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well it's going up slowly!

 

20190921_085904

 

Couldn't resist giving it a quick wash down with acid. Pleased the footing bricks don't stand out too much.

 

20190921_172520

 

So were now here about 7 courses from the top. (Dirty again and needing another acid wash).

 

Yes, it's got a bit of a bow.....its rustic is all I'm saying! Some lights, a bit of ivy maybe.....

 

The flint panel sections are separated by two bricks. Was only when I stepped back that I realised I'd done 3 bricks.....I'd welded the support angle too high! Removed the brick whilst still wet. Might actually help when I come to infill the pillar.

 

20190921_172643

 

@nod, I'm going to get some hydraulic lime to inset my flints, a couple of questions:

 

1) Lime can burn skin can't it? Gloves I assume, any special precautions? Goggles, mask?

 

2) Is lime mortar white? Wanting a more muted colour. 

 

3) 4:1 building sand/lime?

 

What mix consistency should I aim for? As in wet, like Plasticine etc

 

Got to knapp some flints and plan the panel layouts on a flat board sometime. I'll tell the youngest it's a jigsaw.

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
Posted

I always wear marigold gloves for any render Lime will burn 

Dust mask for mixing 

and worth waring safety glasses

Lime motor will be very white when mixed with silver sand

But not mixed with building sand

or a sharp sand

I would try a few different sands before you start to get the desired colour  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, nod said:

I always wear marigold gloves for any render Lime will burn 

Dust mask for mixing 

and worth waring safety glasses

Lime motor will be very white when mixed with silver sand

But not mixed with building sand

or a sharp sand

I would try a few different sands before you start to get the desired colour  

 

Ta. Are you saying not to mix with building or sharp sand or that I can but it'll be different colours?

 

 

Posted
37 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Ta. Are you saying not to mix with building or sharp sand or that I can but it'll be different colours?

 

 

No I’d try a bucket full of both

let them set to see if the colour is right

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, nod said:

No I’d try a bucket full of both

let them set to see if the colour is right

 

It'll be a cupful more like given the price! :)

 

4:1 alright or too strong?

 

  • Like 1
Posted

That was bloody hard work drilling 1/4" st/st plate to make "lintels":

 

2019-09-26_05-00-22

 

Good old genuine Starrett hole saws struggled but the Morse brand (American) cobalt ones did it with plenty of cutting compound. Saying that the 20 & 25mm ones are a bit worn now. Still good for wood. 

 

Need another 3 for the next pillar. Might splash out and have them fabricated. It'll only cost me £25 for a metre of st/st plate but I'll need to buy more hole saws.

Posted
1 hour ago, Onoff said:

That was bloody hard work drilling 1/4" st/st plate to make "lintels":

 

2019-09-26_05-00-22

 

Good old genuine Starrett hole saws struggled but the Morse brand (American) cobalt ones did it with plenty of cutting compound. Saying that the 20 & 25mm ones are a bit worn now. Still good for wood. 

 

Need another 3 for the next pillar. Might splash out and have them fabricated. It'll only cost me £25 for a metre of st/st plate but I'll need to buy more hole saws.

Why. Just whack it in as it is, will see you out. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

Why. Just whack it in as it is, will see you out. 

 

The holes provide a nice key for the mortar, they match up with the holes in ths bricks. Lots of lateral support.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Remember you have a raised deck to build in Wales. 

 

 

? If I go there I'll certainly be digging a deep hole...

 

Theres surprisingly little volume left to fill inside the pillars.

Posted (edited)

Bugger! The track the gate rolls on, I deliberately had it about 3" short of the pillar I've just built to allow for pedestrian access as in no trip hazard. It ends roughly where the two bolts stick up through the base member where one of the rollers attach:

 

SAM_8382

 

SAM_8423

 

SAM_8379

 

I'm going to have to make a 3 or 4' length of temporary  extension rail to slide the gate onto so I've clear access all around the post for the next pillar. Thinking to slot some 20mm galv conduit and tack in an upside down T section cut from an I beam. 

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, Onoff said:

Bugger! The track the gate rolls on, I deliberately had it about 3" short of the pillar I've just built to allow for pedestrian access as in no trip hazard. It ends roughly where the two bolts stick up through the base member where one of the rollers attach:

 

SAM_8382

 

SAM_8423

 

SAM_8379

 

I'm going to have to make a 3 or 4' length of temporary  extension rail to slide the gate onto so I've clear access all around the post for the next pillar. Thinking to slot some 20mm galv conduit and tack in an upside down T section cut from an I beam. 

Are these gates to keep people in or people out ??

Posted
20 minutes ago, pocster said:

Are these gates to keep people in or people out ??

 

It's like Wayward Pines here! 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...