epsilonGreedy Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 15 hours ago, Onoff said: Clearly a (very) few air bubbles got trapped but thinking maybe I can fill them with something? How about mixing up half a bucket of the black mush and filling some of the air bubbles while the main casting cement is still a little green? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 On 01/06/2021 at 20:48, Onoff said: 40kg plastering sand 10kg cement 5kg hydrated lime 500g black mortar tone powder Would I be correct in thinking you did not bother with a concrete core as discussed in the other window cill onsite moulding thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 8 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said: Would I be correct in thinking you did not bother with a concrete core as discussed in the other window cill onsite moulding thread? Nope just. A big square of 25x25x2.5 galv mesh halfway up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 14 minutes ago, Onoff said: Nope just. A big square of 25x25x2.5 galv mesh halfway up. I wonder if the commercial casting fabricators put in concrete cores for strength or to save money by reducing the amount of coloured finishing mortar? I guess the main strength comes from the metal reinforcement. The commercial fabricators also have to worry about transport handling stresses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said: I wonder if the commercial casting fabricators put in concrete cores for strength or to save money by reducing the amount of coloured finishing mortar? I guess the main strength comes from the metal reinforcement. The commercial fabricators also have to worry about transport handling stresses. By biggest worry tbh is the Tesco driver reversing up and catching the 2" overhanging lip. I may, for the next one, cast in a tube at the apex (some sort of 3D printed former probably). This for the aerial so as to mount as high as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 36 minutes ago, Onoff said: Tesco driver reversing up You mean a home delivery ? Not a young man lured into your trap ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 3 hours ago, pocster said: You mean a home delivery? Not a young man lured into your trap ... I did ask last time if I could go back with them on the Tesco delivery van such was SWMBO's moaning at the poor lads about the quality of the packing..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 (edited) I was recently given a whole load of plastic concrete moulds. No immediate use for them...but they were free! Typically none the size I wanted for atop the gate hence making the bespoke mould. With some leftover mix from doing the first cap stone I did then fill one of these moulds up. It is at least indicative of what the cap stone might come out like. Thinking once on to treat it with a liquid waterproofer / rain repellent like Thompson's Waterseal. Might help keep its colour too. Edited June 3, 2021 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Rolled the first cap stone out onto a pallet, protecting the edge with an old towel: Two edges have imperfections: For a first attempt I'm pretty happy with that. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 The finished surface has a few pinholes close up. I'm a tad concerned, over time, of those being a bit of a "key" for frost action. I was going to just install this atop the brick pillar and paint with Thompson's Water Seal. Veering now towards filling those imperfections and just painting with a decent, black masonry paint. On the basis the paint will fill the pinholes. Also, if it does flake off it won't look too bad as the substrate is the dyed grey colour anyway. For a first attempt I'm pretty happy with that. OMG is it heavy though! Guessing a dry'ish mortar bed to lay this on? Off now to mix up a small quantity, measured on the scales, for filling, to the same proportions as the big mix. Not a chance it'll match! ? Then I'll jet wash, clean and reassemble the mould ready for No.2. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 I'd cast number 2 and use the leftover mix to finish no.1. should save you half an hour and the colour match should be closer. You could try rattling the mould on each side with a 1/2 sheet sander or DA to settle the mix half way through then end of the pour to help get the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 That looks great IMO. I used self level compound to fill the pinholes in stone cills i cast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 1 hour ago, JFDIY said: I'd cast number 2 and use the leftover mix to finish no.1. should save you half an hour and the colour match should be closer. You could try rattling the mould on each side with a 1/2 sheet sander or DA to settle the mix half way through then end of the pour to help get the air out. Too late! ? The small/same ratio mix came out alright imo: I'll try an orbital sander for the next one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Mix up a slurry and rub it in to seal the pin holes and cover the whole cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Mould under repair, (bloody cheap, 20 year old, free ply ?), ready for the next one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 (edited) Ready for the next one once the copper pipe has stuck to the cross members. Cleaned the mould out and re-siliconed the internal corners: Found a bit of slightly bigger mesh than before, not galvanised, so gave it a quick coat of zinc spray. Sand and dye already in the mixer: Cement and lime measured out ready. Edited June 13, 2021 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Ready for the next one once the copper pipe has stuck to the cross members. Cleaned the mould out and re-siliconed the internal corners: Found a bit of slightly bigger mesh than before, not galvanised, so gave it a quick coat of zinc spray. Sand and dye already in the mixer: Cement and lime measured out ready. This better be good . Been waiting with my hand in my pants for 2 years !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 Second one done. Used the orbital sander against the sides to vibrate it down this time. Typically I did only 75% of last time's mix (when I had too much left over) and this time was a bit short! Scraped to the sides and filled the hollow in the middle with a nom. 4:1 mix, no lime, no dye, just whatever it picked up from the drum. Was a bit sloppy tbh. Far left corner of the copper pipe came detached from the cross timber so I think is sitting about an 1/8" too deep. I used CT1 first time round but ordinary silicone to "glue" it the the cross timber. Guess the drip channel will just be a bit deeper. Fingers crossed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Been waiting 14 pages for this and the pipe has sunk like the Titanic. Jesus what a let-down! Let us just say that @pocster may be left wanting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 To be fair I was thinking of suggesting some tabs soldered to the pipe to secure it to the timber might save curing time. How many are there to make in total? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 5 hours ago, JFDIY said: To be fair I was thinking of suggesting some tabs soldered to the pipe to secure it to the timber might save curing time. How many are there to make in total? Two, that's it, done! Wait for them to cure and fit them. I'll have to rope a mate in to help lift them into position mind. Before then I do have to access inside the pillar tops and clean out any debris. Then do the final tightening of the M16 safety bolt (back up in case the weld on the L shape box section give up). I'll need some fancy plastic caps to go over the nut come to think of it. Think I can rustle up some white ones and spray them. I want a Gothic esque, thick washer there too...something to mull over... I also have to decide how and where to run conduit for my aerial coax and indeed where to mount the aerial for the gate controller. Probably atop the horizontal section of box with a CB style mount. I did half consider a fancy moulding at the apex of the pillar cap to put the aerial right at the top.....but decided not to. I've also to fill these (deliberate) gaps around where the box comes out of the pillar with foam strip then figure some cover plates or the birds will peck it all out. The box section needs painting black at some time too. Another couple of years then! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 2 hours ago, Onoff said: I'll need some fancy plastic caps I'll have to double check, but I may have a couple SS dome nuts, if I can find them are they any good for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 5 hours ago, Onoff said: I've also to fill these (deliberate) gaps around where the box comes out of the pillar with foam strip then figure some cover plates or the birds will peck it all out. Why not just use a buff colour mastic sealant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 43 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: Why not just use a buff colour mastic sealant? I put some ufh around it to keep it warm . Then some glazing on it as a ‘ feature ‘ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Mr Punter said: Why not just use a buff colour mastic sealant? I may well do. The grey, circular foam strip I have is specifically designed to be siliconed over. Comes from the commercial curtain walling industry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now