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Chainsaw Chains


Conor

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I have this Titan 20" chainsaw that I've been using for all sorts of jobs. Chain is knackered. Dont have the time, tools or skill to try to sharpen it. I need to cut back our tall hedge - plenty of stems from 25-50mm so the hedge trimmer wont cut it.

 

What things matter when picking a compatible chain? Is it just the bar length? Is the number of drive links specific to the machine or the chain?

 

This cheapy seems to be the right spec, but 76 vs 78 drive links? Or this original Oregon which I think is the same as the one on it?

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Take 5 mins to watch a YouTube video on sharpening, buy the correct diameter round file. It takes 5 to 10 mins to sharpen. Depending on what your cutting you should sharpen every tank or second tank of fuel. It makes sharpening easier and quicker.

 

5 minutes ago, kommando said:

The Oregon lasts about 2 years with my low usage.

If your chain lasts 2 years you don't use it very often and don't cut much.

 

My wife has a self sharpening Oregon chain on her electric chainsaw. You can get retrofit kits also. Believe Amazon and Screwfix sell them.

 

Most chain makes will be ok. It's the number of links you need to get the same.

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Yeah you often get chains in a double pack on the fleabay.  A quick slip with the file (2/3 strokes) on each link takes a few minutes whilst you finish a cup of tea (most important) and plan the attack on the offending material before the job, easy if you have a vice to hold the bar - defo worth the effort and if I can do it...

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Guage 

Pitch

Length

 

Alternatively (and I'd recommend this) sharpen the chain. The chainsawing experience is night and day with a sharp chain. 

 

I couldn't make any fair attempt of it until I bought one of these. 

 

Screenshot_2023-07-18-16-27-26-108_com.amazon.mShop.android.shopping-edit.thumb.jpg.94b64002238360d40200430a2ee1e470.jpg

 

Also sold as Stihl. I have a knock off and it works well too. 

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2 hours ago, Conor said:

I have this Titan 20" chainsaw that I've been using for all sorts of jobs. Chain is knackered. Dont have the time, tools or skill to try to sharpen it. I need to cut back our tall hedge - plenty of stems from 25-50mm so the hedge trimmer wont cut it.

 

What things matter when picking a compatible chain? Is it just the bar length? Is the number of drive links specific to the machine or the chain?

 

This cheapy seems to be the right spec, but 76 vs 78 drive links? Or this original Oregon which I think is the same as the one on it?

I modified the cover with an extra hole for the chain tensioner to come through so it can take either chain.

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If you can build a house, you can certainly take the ten minutes it takes to run a file over a chain. Perfection aint necessary- even if you're just taking the burrs off rather than sharpening as such it'll still improve things...

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It's not so much the ten minutes sharpening @dpmiller, it's getting sufficiently well organised so that the job only takes ten minutes.

I last sharpened mine two years ago. Not used last year, but need it now - well - soon. 

 

Where's the file, where's the jig, where's the vice (moved since last used) - forgotten where I've put it - under a pile of sh!te I expect ?

 

But when I settle to the job, it's as calming and pleasing - soothing - as bulling boots used to be in the army. And when the wood chips fly, big smile, and then it's - oh I'll just touch it up so that next time ...... 

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1 hour ago, ToughButterCup said:

It's not so much the ten minutes sharpening @dpmiller, it's getting sufficiently well organised so that the job only takes ten minutes.

I last sharpened mine two years ago. Not used last year, but need it now - well - soon. 

 

Where's the file, where's the jig, where's the vice (moved since last used) - forgotten where I've put it - under a pile of sh!te I expect ?

 

But when I settle to the job, it's as calming and pleasing - soothing - as bulling boots used to be in the army. And when the wood chips fly, big smile, and then it's - oh I'll just touch it up so that next time ...... 

jig? vice? whaddya need that for...

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I can’t imagine using my chainsaw with sharpening each time. There’s no way it would chop a tree up in one go otherwise. It’s just one of those things you have to do if use a chainsaw imo. Ask any Woodman. 

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1 hour ago, gc100 said:

I can’t imagine using my chainsaw with(out) sharpening each time. There’s no way it would chop a tree up in one go otherwise. It’s just one of those things you have to do if use a chainsaw imo. Ask any Woodman. 

+1, keeping the chain sharp by just a little sharpening every now and again keeps it most efficient, no point in running it into the ground and needing a chain replacement, just makes it hard work and overworking the rest of the machine.

Edited by joe90
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If it's the same Titan chainsaw I have that came from Screweys (brilliant saw by the way) it came with an Oregon bar and chain, and they sell the replacement so I will just buy it from there.  But my original chain (with a quick sharpen every now and then) is lasting way better than the previous chainsaw I had.

 

The key to chain sharpening is little and often.  Don't wait until it won't cut and smokes before even thinking about sharpening it.  If it won't cut 25mm to 50mm hedge trunks then boy it's "done"

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18 minutes ago, ProDave said:

....

The key to chain sharpening is little and often.  Don't wait until ....

...

 

Hmmmm, there's a stage before that: it's  needing to use the saw : and knowing where the sharpening stuff was put away last time.

 

And in houses with children who now have their own house - checking that your sharpening kit has not been ' stolen '.  I walked into my lad's workshop the other day. He had the good grace to show his embarrassment . 

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