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My self-build DIY plumbing


Thorfun

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11 hours ago, Thorfun said:

@Nickfromwales have you used these plastic bibs from hep2o?

 

https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/hep2o-wall-plate-elbow-black-15mm-x-12-inch-pushfit-hx615w/p/616913

 

I always thought that screwing brass into plastic was a recipe for disaster? it makes me wonder if these are 'special' plastics for Wavin to move to plastic over brass?

 

I presume Wavin must be pretty confident in the product to still give it a 50 year guarantee

If you contact Wavin and tell them you’re fitting a 400mm lever in to it they may say ‘behave’ and dissuade you from using them. They’re for taps / close to wall items where they won’t come under undue forces etc. 

 

Brass here, all day long mate!!

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@Thorfun Morning pal, I've had a sleepless night trying to figure a solution to this conundrum!

 

I came up with the conclusion that there is a solution but they all require more joints 😕!

 

This is from a discussion on one of @MortarThePoint posts where the question was asked what the best way to bring hep out of the wall.  May help.

 

 

It may be easier to use a shower fitting even for a basin etc:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322273391778

 

And a couple of hep2o adapters:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f

 

As that gives you more meat to screw to the wall. At the expense of more joints.

 

Edited by crispy_wafer
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59 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

@Thorfun Morning pal, I've had a sleepless night trying to figure a solution to this conundrum!

 

I came up with the conclusion that there is a solution but they all require more joints 😕!

 

This is from a discussion on one of @MortarThePoint posts where the question was asked what the best way to bring hep out of the wall.  May help.

 

 

It may be easier to use a shower fitting even for a basin etc:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322273391778

 

And a couple of hep2o adapters:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f

 

As that gives you more meat to screw to the wall. At the expense of more joints.

 

hey. thanks for the info. I've made a decision and I am using copper push fit wall plate elbows. only time will tell if it's the right thing to do! I'm gutted I can't find/Wavin don't sell the brass Hep2o wall plates any more as that would've been my preferred route.

 

I'm sure it'll be fine. 🤞

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1 hour ago, Thorfun said:

hey. thanks for the info. I've made a decision and I am using copper push fit wall plate elbows. only time will tell if it's the right thing to do! I'm gutted I can't find/Wavin don't sell the brass Hep2o wall plates any more as that would've been my preferred route.

 

I'm sure it'll be fine. 🤞

The brass wavin ones do seem to have disappeared - I assume cost cutting . But then again if they say the plastic version is ok ….. 

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1 hour ago, Pocster said:

The brass wavin ones do seem to have disappeared - I assume cost cutting . But then again if they say the plastic version is ok ….. 

i'm going to heed @Nickfromwales's advice here and go brass. it also just feels right to be threading a brass thread into a brass socket. going in to plastic just feels wrong!

Edited by Thorfun
typo
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  • 3 weeks later...

as i finish up my iBox installs in preparation for the tiler next week i need to install the waterproof part that comes with them. according to the manual i need to fix with PCI Lastogum or sealing compound which is similar.

 

image.png.9083c7d87cf2fd536396c44f6171040b.png

 

can anyone tell me what is the best product to use for this part please?

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  • 2 weeks later...

i'm finishing the last bit of 1st fix plumbing this weekend and need to run the kitchen sink waste to the soil pipe. that is a run of about 5m and will be attached to the basement ceiling. the waste pipe is 40mm from the sink through the floor to the basement ceiling where i will convert to 50mm pipe.

 

is a 5m run in 50mm pipe ok? i've read somewhere about upsizing for long runs of waste pipe but am not sure what counts as a long run and what is an upsizing. do i need to go from 50mm to 110mm at some point before the soil pipe i'm joining?

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34 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

i'm finishing the last bit of 1st fix plumbing this weekend and need to run the kitchen sink waste to the soil pipe. that is a run of about 5m and will be attached to the basement ceiling. the waste pipe is 40mm from the sink through the floor to the basement ceiling where i will convert to 50mm pipe.

 

is a 5m run in 50mm pipe ok? i've read somewhere about upsizing for long runs of waste pipe but am not sure what counts as a long run and what is an upsizing. do i need to go from 50mm to 110mm at some point before the soil pipe i'm joining?

Nah . It’s all good . Boss strap to soil pipe from the 50mm

I know you’ll ignore what I post but just want it on record that I am correct .

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2 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Nah . It’s all good . Boss strap to soil pipe from the 50mm

I know you’ll ignore what I post but just want it on record that I am correct .

i never ignore what you say, sometimes i just choose not to follow it. there is a big difference. 😉

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need help with my ufh system control. it's going to be a while before I can get Loxone up and running and integrated. so, for now, I want to run the ufh from 2 x wifi thermostats. one in the basement and one on the ground floor. these thermostats will need to communicate with something to open up the valves and call the ASHP for heat.

 

we have an Ecodan ASHP and UVC with the FTC6 controller. here's a photo of the motorised valves.

 

image.jpeg.2467e69173d767c1c8b7d8728f5e2816.jpeg

 

what do I need to get this working please? what parts do I need to buy? and is putting it together DIY-able?

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1 hour ago, Thorfun said:

need help with my ufh system control. it's going to be a while before I can get Loxone up and running and integrated. so, for now, I want to run the ufh from 2 x wifi thermostats. one in the basement and one on the ground floor. these thermostats will need to communicate with something to open up the valves and call the ASHP for heat.

 

we have an Ecodan ASHP and UVC with the FTC6 controller. here's a photo of the motorised valves.

 

image.jpeg.2467e69173d767c1c8b7d8728f5e2816.jpeg

 

what do I need to get this working please? what parts do I need to buy? and is putting it together DIY-able?

Motorised actuators . ( salus  )

Simple control box for them ( heat miser ) . WiFi type relays hooked into that . 
You can then easily add to whatever HA you need later 

 

Or ignore 😊

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Just now, Pocster said:

Motorised actuators . ( salus  )

Simple control box for them ( heat miser ) . WiFi type relays hooked into that . 
You can then easily add to whatever HA you need later 

I don't want to control zones though within a manifold so my actuators will be on all the time. I want to control the motorised valves and turn the ASHP on when the thermostat says so.

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1 minute ago, Thorfun said:

I don't want to control zones though within a manifold so my actuators will be on all the time. I want to control the motorised valves and turn the ASHP on when the thermostat says so.

Hmmmm

Mines like the other way round . Actuator opens which turns on pump which inturn requests ASHP if needed .

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Just now, Pocster said:

Hmmmm

Mines like the other way round . Actuator opens which turns on pump which inturn requests ASHP if needed .

do you have multiple zones then? if running as a single zone isn't paying for motorised actuators on each loop on the manifold expensive and unnecessary?

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Just now, Pocster said:

Jump the manifold pump request then ?

so, afaik, it'll be like this. thermostat on one or both of the floors requests heat. something receives that and tells the ASHP to startup and produce hot water for the domestic heating. in turn the pump for the ufh needs to be turned on and the relevant motorised valve opened to allow water to go to that floors manifold. All the actuators on each floor's manifold is permanently open so the opening of the motorised valve allows the water to flow through the ufh pipes.

 

make sense?

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3 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

so, afaik, it'll be like this. thermostat on one or both of the floors requests heat. something receives that and tells the ASHP to startup and produce hot water for the domestic heating. in turn the pump for the ufh needs to be turned on and the relevant motorised valve opened to allow water to go to that floors manifold. All the actuators on each floor's manifold is permanently open so the opening of the motorised valve allows the water to flow through the ufh pipes.

 

make sense?

Yeah - got you .

My ASHP operates ( when it needs ) rather than I control it .

ufh ( via uvc and ASHP ) it is determined by flow I.e when relevant pump is on for which ever manifold .

So I don’t control ASHP directly - all off the ufh pump to effectively operate uvc / ASHP .

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So you have one motorised valve per manifold but only ONE pump that serves both manifolds.  That complicates the issue.

 

What is the call for heat input on the FTC6?  Does it have to be a volt free contact or will it accept a switched 240v ac input?

 

The logic is:

Basement thermostat energises basement motorised valve when it wants heat.

Ground floor thermostat energised ground floor motorised valve when it wants heat.

 

The feedback contacts (orange and grey wires) from both motorised valves connect in parallel and will turn on the pump when either floor is calling for heat.

 

Where it will get complicated if the FTC6 insists on a volt free contact you will have to use a relay.

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3 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Yeah - got you .

My ASHP operates ( when it needs ) rather than I control it .

ufh ( via uvc and ASHP ) it is determined by flow I.e when relevant pump is on for which ever manifold .

So I don’t control ASHP directly - all off the ufh pump to effectively operate uvc / ASHP .

interesting. I have noticed that when I manually turn on the heating the pump is one of the first things to come on so maybe my system is similar and I actually need something to turn on the pump and open the valves?

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1 minute ago, Thorfun said:

interesting. I have noticed that when I manually turn on the heating the pump is one of the first things to come on so maybe my system is similar and I actually need something to turn on the pump and open the valves?

That’s what I would think . But your system is undoubtedly different setup to mine . 

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