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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

 

I worry me. :)

 

Hoping the jigsaw blades @Nickfromwales recommended  will do the job on these curved tile cuts:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Sabre+%26+Jigsaw+Blades/sd2581/Tungsten+Carbide+Grit+Jigsaw+Blades/p67688

? I love tiling !!!

The sense of endless repetition that no one appreciates apart from yourself . Yet something so satisfying when you stand back and look at your efforts . 

Do you want to do my bathroom ??? 

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On 30/08/2018 at 15:24, Onoff said:

 

If I get any blockage in the soil run in the loft then it's backing up in the shower. Again if the shower trap dries out we're letting in fumes straight from the cess pool rather than one longish waste pipe that's open to the air where it exits above the grill.

 

On 30/08/2018 at 15:04, Nickfromwales said:

No deal Noel?

It’s going in facking BOLD next time I’ve got to say it. ??

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6 minutes ago, pocster said:

? I love tiling !!!

The sense of endless repetition that no one appreciates apart from yourself . Yet something so satisfying when you stand back and look at your efforts . 

Do you want to do my bathroom ??? 

 

I hate it with a vengeance. Total monotony but a high level of skill needed imo. Really need to labour for someone good to pick up those little extra tips to get good I think. 

 

I quite like the holes and complicated cuts...when I get it right! 

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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

 

I hate it with a vengeance. Total monotony but a high level of skill needed imo. Really need to labour for someone good to pick up those little extra tips to get good I think. 

 

I quite like the holes and complicated cuts...when I get it right! 

It’s saturday night ! You should be out pulling not tiling ??

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3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just not going to happen. The soil run in the attic is brand new and run way above the standard normally done by ‘plumbers’. 

Chill Winston. 

 

High praise indeed! :)

 

The existing, upstairs basin waste as the red arrow points to below:

 

That cannot be raised up. It's touching the underside of the 9"x6" that white JB is on.

 

dropin2.jpg

 

Sure, I could drop the shower in like you said but the basin waste, best I could do is come into the grey soil via a side mounted solvent waste boss maybe?

 

20180519_154825

 

Edited by Onoff
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Another faux pas methinks:

 

I've cut these tile templates to allow a few mm clearance around the flush and poo pipes. A 54mm holesaw for the 45mm dia flush pipe and a 102mm holesaw used for the 90mm dia poo pipe.

 

20180922_154945

 

But I'm thinking these are too small a diameter. On the sudden realisation that I should tile with the YELLOW blanking plugs in place then my holes should in fact be a few mm bigger than the yellow blanks?

 

2018-09-22_12-07-12

 

It'll be just a few minutes work to reassemble the jig and drill with bigger Starretts.

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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  • 4 weeks later...

Any way I can "pull" this 1 1/4" solvent weld waste around by 5deg? Suddenly remembered I set it wrong when I did it! Thinking of a chop off/adapt fix:

 

2018-10-15_04-23-29

 

The smallest bend available seems to be 45deg.

 

Tbh the basin might fit in OK and this cause no issue.

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Hold off until you fit the basin. A bit of a tug and it’ll probably snug over enough. ;)  

 

Will do. I'll get this bit tiled first and try the basin there. Pedestal will hide plenty.

 

Beginning to think the pedestal is a mistake tbh! :)

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The towel radiator...

 

It's going to have to sit a lot higher than I'd envisaged to look right. Currently balanced carefully on a Geberit box:

 

IMG_20181018_183622261.thumb.jpg.b6d2f6f4f16d1b3718f6cbbb33fc7762.jpg

 

So presumably I need to drop the valves lower onto the chrome 15mm stubs coming out of the wall? Then have chrome verticals coming up to the rad? Going to look strange having that trv on its own low down by the stub pipe.

 

IMG_20181018_183650951.thumb.jpg.7d21775f0e05cafc611374ed7e3a884f.jpg

 

IMG_20181018_183634440.thumb.jpg.d284a0d8aebce4a5b3eb5a08200f4cf1.jpg

 

Thinking if I move the rad up a bit I can lose that line of rips at the cill?

 

IMG_20181018_183705363.thumb.jpg.b10620edc7a90f9e422da40c94d8ccb5.jpg

 

With hindsight maybe I'd have brought the stubs out of the wall higher up. Or should I just have the rad low?

 

It's been a helluva long time since I've fitted a radiator and never a fancy one.

 

Any glaring mistakes, tips etc?

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
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Bought these and a couple of Pegler 15mm compression elbows:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-white-chrome-straight-trv-lockshield-15mm-x/34063

 

Should let me put the valves up by the rad rather than down by the floor.

 

@Nickfromwales, how many turns of ptfe tape in these fittings where it screws into the rad? 

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff
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You could puts straight male 15mm x 1/2" chrome 'copper to irons' in the rad, then short pieces of chrome pipe, then straight rad valves, then more chrome pipe and then into chrome comp 90's. That way you'll be able to put the valves 'mid-way' thus satisfying OCD ;) 

 

18 turns should suffice. Crossed with the other replies.

Edited by Nickfromwales
straight
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Sod's Law that on the left, the wall fixings for the rad come dead on a grout line as does the pipe coming out of the wall.

 

It has nothing to do with poor planning! 

 

:ph34r:

 

Still, should help hide the dodgy tiling between mosaics and plain!

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  • 1 month later...

I've got to knock this wall out a bit more on the left, only by about an inch. Chain drilled it originally.....just not enough. 

 

20181217_203434

 

SWMBO has a thing about dust...weird...

 

So how to move a large volume of dust? Going to chain drill again then comb chisel it. This thing connected N/LA for the fast speed should help with a bit of a cowl and some 63mm duct out the window.

 

20181217_203314

 

20181217_203334

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

SWMBO has a thing about dust...weird...

 

Don't bother with all that hassle. Just do it after she's headed off to bed after a few too many  ?and pop on some ear defenders. Next morning, tell her about that Saharan dust storm that hit your particular address. Who left the bloody window open?

 

image.jpeg.52f920822007e18f332acf397f79aeca.jpeg

 

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20 hours ago, oranjeboom said:

 

Don't bother with all that hassle. Just do it after she's headed off to bed after a few too many  ?and pop on some ear defenders. Next morning, tell her about that Saharan dust storm that hit your particular address. Who left the bloody window open?

 

Too late.....

 

20181218_165540

 

20181218_165554

 

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Dust extractor was a total fail! :) With that cone on the end it blew outward rather than sucking!

 

So it was the old faithful Wickes/Earlex vac, 10mm holes SDS drilled through, 1" apart then the bolster.  High spots taken off with a comb chisel.

 

20181222_142450

 

20181222_151434

 

Door frame needs the stubby bits taken off:

 

20181222_165208

 

And the previously plastered bit on the soffit needs to be hacked out:

 

20181222_165231

 

20181222_165312

 

For now the old 30" door is going back on:

 

20181222_165409

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 14/01/2018 at 19:42, Nickfromwales said:

@Onoff

I've never had one with a backnut. Tbh, it's rare to get rear access so you'd never get to fit one anyway. 

The one you've got fits as follows. :

1) you measure the diameter of the fitting, the chrome bit after the brass thread.

2) you get that size tile hole saw and make a hole 2-3mm bigger. 

3) you fit an outside tap backplate into the wall at about 1/4" shy of finished tile face. 

4) you tile and grout after blanking the outlet and pressure testing. 

5) turn the fitting into the outlet until its tight. At this stage it'll likely have bottomed out without the chrome going past the tile face. 

6) measure what you need for the chrome bit to finish 3-4mm into the tile. 

7) cut that much off the brass thread. 

? you put 22-26 turns of ptfe onto the last 25mm of thread ( so 50 turns or so in total to get the thread covered ) 

9) turn the outlet into the backplate until it's pointing down and just shy of proud of the tile face ( slightly recessed )

10) do not go so far that you have to back turn anti clockwise 

11) clear ct1 the tile hole tobthe brass thread by pumping it full.  

12 ) push the cover ring down the outlet until it rests on the tile. It's NOT there as a waterproof seal, and the rubber o-ring is only a friction ring to keep it parked. The ct1 forms the watertight element.   

 

Clear as mud ?

 

Can you believe I'm actually ready to do this? :)

 

Cut the brass down and made a lovely job:

 

20190121_213840

 

It fits in a treat. Just happened to have saved an offcut of 14mm Allen key years back:

 

20190121_213909

 

Now to fit this:

 

20190121_213929

 

It fits in just below the tile surface as per instruction:

 

20190121_214034

 

The intent is to ditch the rubber washer it came with and PTFE both ends of the brass:

 

20190121_213939

 

So do I put 22-25 turns of PTFE BOTH ends of the thread, screw in with the Allen key then wind in the chrome bit until plumb and make sure I don't turn it back? Then pump full of CT1, push chrome ring against the tile and baby wipe off?

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14 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Can you believe I'm actually ready to do this? :)

 

Cut the brass down and made a lovely job:

 

 

 

It fits in a treat. Just happened to have saved an offcut of 14mm Allen key years back:

 

 

 

Now to fit this:

 

 

 

It fits in just below the tile surface as per instruction:

 

 

 

The intent is to ditch the rubber washer it came with and PTFE both ends of the brass:

 

 

 

So do I put 22-25 turns of PTFE BOTH ends of the thread, screw in with the Allen key then wind in the chrome bit until plumb and make sure I don't turn it back? Then pump full of CT1, push chrome ring against the tile and baby wipe off?

In a nutshell, yes. It'll never get full static pressure as its only dealing with dynamic flow. Will be fine.

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