Pocster Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 1 minute ago, Onoff said: I worry me. Hoping the jigsaw blades @Nickfromwales recommended will do the job on these curved tile cuts: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Sabre+%26+Jigsaw+Blades/sd2581/Tungsten+Carbide+Grit+Jigsaw+Blades/p67688 ? I love tiling !!! The sense of endless repetition that no one appreciates apart from yourself . Yet something so satisfying when you stand back and look at your efforts . Do you want to do my bathroom ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 On 30/08/2018 at 15:24, Onoff said: If I get any blockage in the soil run in the loft then it's backing up in the shower. Again if the shower trap dries out we're letting in fumes straight from the cess pool rather than one longish waste pipe that's open to the air where it exits above the grill. On 30/08/2018 at 15:04, Nickfromwales said: No deal Noel. ? It’s going in facking BOLD next time I’ve got to say it. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 6 minutes ago, pocster said: ? I love tiling !!! The sense of endless repetition that no one appreciates apart from yourself . Yet something so satisfying when you stand back and look at your efforts . Do you want to do my bathroom ??? I hate it with a vengeance. Total monotony but a high level of skill needed imo. Really need to labour for someone good to pick up those little extra tips to get good I think. I quite like the holes and complicated cuts...when I get it right! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 1 minute ago, Onoff said: I hate it with a vengeance. Total monotony but a high level of skill needed imo. Really need to labour for someone good to pick up those little extra tips to get good I think. I quite like the holes and complicated cuts...when I get it right! It’s saturday night ! You should be out pulling not tiling ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 On 30/08/2018 at 15:24, Onoff said: If I get any blockage in the soil run in the loft then it's backing up in the shower. Just not going to happen. The soil run in the attic is brand new and run way above the standard normally done by ‘plumbers’. Chill Winston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Just not going to happen. The soil run in the attic is brand new and run way above the standard normally done by ‘plumbers’. Chill Winston. High praise indeed! The existing, upstairs basin waste as the red arrow points to below: That cannot be raised up. It's touching the underside of the 9"x6" that white JB is on. Sure, I could drop the shower in like you said but the basin waste, best I could do is come into the grey soil via a side mounted solvent waste boss maybe? Edited September 22, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) Another faux pas methinks: I've cut these tile templates to allow a few mm clearance around the flush and poo pipes. A 54mm holesaw for the 45mm dia flush pipe and a 102mm holesaw used for the 90mm dia poo pipe. But I'm thinking these are too small a diameter. On the sudden realisation that I should tile with the YELLOW blanking plugs in place then my holes should in fact be a few mm bigger than the yellow blanks? It'll be just a few minutes work to reassemble the jig and drill with bigger Starretts. Edited September 22, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 (edited) Any way I can "pull" this 1 1/4" solvent weld waste around by 5deg? Suddenly remembered I set it wrong when I did it! Thinking of a chop off/adapt fix: The smallest bend available seems to be 45deg. Tbh the basin might fit in OK and this cause no issue. Edited October 15, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Hold off until you fit the basin. A bit of a tug and it’ll probably snug over enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: Hold off until you fit the basin. A bit of a tug and it’ll probably snug over enough. Will do. I'll get this bit tiled first and try the basin there. Pedestal will hide plenty. Beginning to think the pedestal is a mistake tbh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Not much choice being that close to the shower ? I’d rather a pedestal than see the trap ever day of the week. Semi ped the absolute minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) The towel radiator... It's going to have to sit a lot higher than I'd envisaged to look right. Currently balanced carefully on a Geberit box: So presumably I need to drop the valves lower onto the chrome 15mm stubs coming out of the wall? Then have chrome verticals coming up to the rad? Going to look strange having that trv on its own low down by the stub pipe. Thinking if I move the rad up a bit I can lose that line of rips at the cill? With hindsight maybe I'd have brought the stubs out of the wall higher up. Or should I just have the rad low? It's been a helluva long time since I've fitted a radiator and never a fancy one. Any glaring mistakes, tips etc? Cheers Edited October 18, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 You could put chrome compression elbows on the stubs coming out of the wall and then another short section of pipe up to the valves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 7 hours ago, bassanclan said: You could put chrome compression elbows on the stubs coming out of the wall and then another short section of pipe up to the valves He. Thinking this assembly might be better? https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-white-chrome-straight-trv-lockshield-15mm-x/34063 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 straight valves look like a winner here. If you had've been closer you could have gone with long tails eg https://www.bes.co.uk/trv-tail-extension-chrome-15mm-x-60mm-21357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) Bought these and a couple of Pegler 15mm compression elbows: https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-white-chrome-straight-trv-lockshield-15mm-x/34063 Should let me put the valves up by the rad rather than down by the floor. @Nickfromwales, how many turns of ptfe tape in these fittings where it screws into the rad? Cheers Edited October 19, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) You could puts straight male 15mm x 1/2" chrome 'copper to irons' in the rad, then short pieces of chrome pipe, then straight rad valves, then more chrome pipe and then into chrome comp 90's. That way you'll be able to put the valves 'mid-way' thus satisfying OCD 18 turns should suffice. Crossed with the other replies. Edited October 19, 2018 by Nickfromwales straight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 Sod's Law that on the left, the wall fixings for the rad come dead on a grout line as does the pipe coming out of the wall. It has nothing to do with poor planning! Still, should help hide the dodgy tiling between mosaics and plain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 I've got to knock this wall out a bit more on the left, only by about an inch. Chain drilled it originally.....just not enough. SWMBO has a thing about dust...weird... So how to move a large volume of dust? Going to chain drill again then comb chisel it. This thing connected N/LA for the fast speed should help with a bit of a cowl and some 63mm duct out the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: SWMBO has a thing about dust...weird... Don't bother with all that hassle. Just do it after she's headed off to bed after a few too many ?and pop on some ear defenders. Next morning, tell her about that Saharan dust storm that hit your particular address. Who left the bloody window open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 20 hours ago, oranjeboom said: Don't bother with all that hassle. Just do it after she's headed off to bed after a few too many ?and pop on some ear defenders. Next morning, tell her about that Saharan dust storm that hit your particular address. Who left the bloody window open? Too late..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 Dust extractor was a total fail! With that cone on the end it blew outward rather than sucking! So it was the old faithful Wickes/Earlex vac, 10mm holes SDS drilled through, 1" apart then the bolster. High spots taken off with a comb chisel. Door frame needs the stubby bits taken off: And the previously plastered bit on the soffit needs to be hacked out: For now the old 30" door is going back on: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 SWMBO just got all excited seeing the basin, pedestal and wc gone from the study. She came out from the bathroom... "I thought they were in!" "They are dear, in the cupboard!" 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 On 14/01/2018 at 19:42, Nickfromwales said: @Onoff I've never had one with a backnut. Tbh, it's rare to get rear access so you'd never get to fit one anyway. The one you've got fits as follows. : 1) you measure the diameter of the fitting, the chrome bit after the brass thread. 2) you get that size tile hole saw and make a hole 2-3mm bigger. 3) you fit an outside tap backplate into the wall at about 1/4" shy of finished tile face. 4) you tile and grout after blanking the outlet and pressure testing. 5) turn the fitting into the outlet until its tight. At this stage it'll likely have bottomed out without the chrome going past the tile face. 6) measure what you need for the chrome bit to finish 3-4mm into the tile. 7) cut that much off the brass thread. ? you put 22-26 turns of ptfe onto the last 25mm of thread ( so 50 turns or so in total to get the thread covered ) 9) turn the outlet into the backplate until it's pointing down and just shy of proud of the tile face ( slightly recessed ) 10) do not go so far that you have to back turn anti clockwise 11) clear ct1 the tile hole tobthe brass thread by pumping it full. 12 ) push the cover ring down the outlet until it rests on the tile. It's NOT there as a waterproof seal, and the rubber o-ring is only a friction ring to keep it parked. The ct1 forms the watertight element. Clear as mud ? Can you believe I'm actually ready to do this? Cut the brass down and made a lovely job: It fits in a treat. Just happened to have saved an offcut of 14mm Allen key years back: Now to fit this: It fits in just below the tile surface as per instruction: The intent is to ditch the rubber washer it came with and PTFE both ends of the brass: So do I put 22-25 turns of PTFE BOTH ends of the thread, screw in with the Allen key then wind in the chrome bit until plumb and make sure I don't turn it back? Then pump full of CT1, push chrome ring against the tile and baby wipe off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 14 minutes ago, Onoff said: Can you believe I'm actually ready to do this? Cut the brass down and made a lovely job: It fits in a treat. Just happened to have saved an offcut of 14mm Allen key years back: Now to fit this: It fits in just below the tile surface as per instruction: The intent is to ditch the rubber washer it came with and PTFE both ends of the brass: So do I put 22-25 turns of PTFE BOTH ends of the thread, screw in with the Allen key then wind in the chrome bit until plumb and make sure I don't turn it back? Then pump full of CT1, push chrome ring against the tile and baby wipe off? In a nutshell, yes. It'll never get full static pressure as its only dealing with dynamic flow. Will be fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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