Jump to content

Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


Recommended Posts

So once again powered by Cobra and a strange aubergine recipe the wife got from the Aldi website...

 

Mitreing this corner tonight or at least making a stab. I first considered putting noggins across as previous. Then I figured continuous vertical support would be better so I ripped a length of 2"x2":

 

20180403_210210

 

And after a bit of reverse Pythagoras and some duct tape:

 

20180403_212309

 

20180403_212326

 

Got to decide whether I'll ply this before putting the Aquapanel on. I think it's just the handset riser going on this wall.

 

She'll be right I reckon!

 

Beer o'clock (again). :) 

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

So once again powered by Cobra and a strange aubergine recipe the wife got from the Aldi website...

 

Mitreing this corner tonight or at least making a stab. I first considered putting noggins across as previous. Then I figured continuous vertical support would be better so I ripped a length of 2"x2":

 

 

 

And after a bit of reverse Pythagoras and some duct tape:

 

 

 

 

 

Got to decide whether I'll ply this before putting the Aquapanel on. I think it's just the handset riser going on this wall.

 

She'll be right I reckon!

 

Beer o'clock (again). :) 

 

 

lets not get hasty, how are you going to fix the end of your boarding? 

 

you either need to put some new noggins in next to those fillets to pick up the board 

 

or

 

nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

lets not get hasty, how are you going to fix the end of your boarding? 

 

you either need to put some new noggins in next to those fillets to pick up the board 

 

or

 

nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board.

 

 

 

Do you mean the ends of main wall boards that come in from the left and right where they butt up to the fillets? Maybe a full height ply "wing" on the back of the fillets?

 

The tile is only 400mm wide. I'm a bit lacking in ply at the mo, at least marine ply that is. Was half thinking to screw a nom. 400mm wide, full height, ply board to those fillets then just screw thru to attach to the wall noggins. At the base I'll maybe just stick the ply board to the concrete.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Do you mean the ends of main wall boards that come in from the left and right where they butt up to the fillets? Maybe a full height ply "wing" on the back of the fillets?

 

The tile is only 400mm wide. I'm a bit lacking in ply at the mo, at least marine ply that is. Was half thinking to screw a nom. 400mm wide, full height, ply board to those fillets then just screw thru to attach to the wall noggins. At the base I'll maybe just stick the ply board to the concrete.

 

have you allowed for the thickness of plasterboard? the last thing you want is to end up with a gap a tile and a bit wide,

 

but yes i meant the wall boards, coming from either side,  how often have you got a noggin to fix the fillets to?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

have you allowed for the thickness of plasterboard? the last thing you want is to end up with a gap a tile and a bit wide,

 

but yes i meant the wall boards, coming from either side,  how often have you got a noggin to fix the fillets to?

 

 

I've yet to allow for the 12.5mm thickness of "pb" though in this case it'll be 12.5mm Aquapanel. Very conscious of that.

 

Not enough noggins tbh. I'm thinking now, instead of noggins, to put a vertical infill of 6"x2" at right angles to the studs nearest the fillets. Loads of support then.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Construction Channel said:

 

nog where you want those fillets, board the wall first, then fix the fillets (probably in a slightly different place) through the board.

 

Just re-read this bit! Like the idea of boarding first and the same as I think @Nickfromwales did on the one he did / SWMBO saw / I'm now copying! :)

 

I'm going to complicate it though and continue down my meandering path for now if only to save on Aquapanel for doing the pockets which I never allowed for. 

 

Was debating once this triangle is full height & plumbing done whether to fill it up with EPS beads. Very lossy corner this what with the soil going through.

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trying to figure this corner out. I've found some seemingly decent 18mm ply although not marine, that I can rip to do the full height, something like this on plan:

 

corner-Model.thumb.jpg.66b17aa3fcf5d31c00712005169665ad.jpg

 

What thickness do I allow for tile adhesive, which I've not accounted for? As in if I use a 6mm notched trowel does it squash down to 3, 4, 5???

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scored a couple of 3/4 size 18mm ply sheets (old site hoarding) ages ago.

 

Nice close "grain" on it. Not like some of the falling apart crap I've come across on site. Not marine ply but beggars can't be etc:

 

20180408_183933

 

One side's painted blue but hey ho, that can go on the inside. Ripped to width with a 45deg edge each side:

 

20180408_183836

 

The Aquapanel will be Sikaflex'd (or something cheaper maybe) to this. Might get a bit of a sanding down:

 

20180408_183915

 

The vertical ply will only carry the shower hose slider and hose outlet. I'll make it so if I do need access the backplate there'll be a sacrificial tile! 

 

Edit: I've assumed an 8mm notched trowel for the walls bedding down to 4mm.

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I possibly need to introduce an extension piece between the hose connector and backplate. As the extension / backplate joint is going to be hidden for evermore is liquid PTFE the best option? Did wonder if I could flux and solder it...

 

2018-04-08 19.54.50

 

20180408_195341.thumb.jpg.e12d704f4914a8fff340b6dafe49a9e9.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cant you mount the tap fitting closer?  Fewer joints the better.  The good news is that when you arent showering this fitting wont be under pressure, so a wee leak shouldnt be a disaster (not that you would want one anyway).  Mine are just behind the boards and I will have to shorten the piece that goes into the surface thingy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, CC45 said:

Cant you mount the tap fitting closer?  Fewer joints the better.  The good news is that when you arent showering this fitting wont be under pressure, so a wee leak shouldnt be a disaster (not that you would want one anyway).  Mine are just behind the boards and I will have to shorten the piece that goes into the surface thingy.

 

Because I have 18mm of ply then 12.5mm Aquapanel, nom 4mm of adhesive then 8mm of tile, even without cutting the brass thread down and keeping the shower hose chrome (red) 4mm into the tile, the backplate will be in the ply "zone":

 

cc45.JPG.0c583fb4c9bf9cade3fb8a37479b5fe3.JPG

 

Introducing the extension piece puts the base plate behind the ply:

 

cc451.JPG.094b75a05af656d599dc92884ab3b988.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Onoff said:

Edit: I've assumed an 8mm notched trowel for the walls bedding down to 4mm.

About right, if your using 12mm tile trims ;)

 

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

Did wonder if I could flux and solder it...

100% what I would do, and I posted pics of the last one I did where I did exactly that. 

Bombproof. You can get one of those backplates that's end feed too, not compression, so bombbombproof.

That is an actual word btw. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thinking ahead... :(

 

I'm going to look at putting in some strong mounts for a future shower seat. Do they tend to have a Geberit style frame, standard fixing centres etc?

 

329.png.91025726cb56a44f02ea4bc1e90d369f.png

 

The time it's taking and the state of my knees, back, joints in general etc I might as well fit the seat now! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, CC45 said:

What about these:https://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415

 

You could mount this on the aquapanel, trim the 15mm pipe to size (this is in the void so no need to be too ott) and the connect up.  Couldnt be much easier or quicker (I realise the latter advantage isnt that important to you ??)

 

I think I've proposed that exact fitting myself in the past!

 

However...it would mean a soldered joint deeper in the wall. If I go with @Nickfromwales idea of the soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily. I'm aiming for no joints in the wall other than where the pipes connect to the shower valve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily.

 

Test it before you seal it up - easy to do to a threaded fitting and a bit of pipe .. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Test it before you seal it up - easy to do to a threaded fitting and a bit of pipe .. 

 

Will do. 

 

You're awake then? Those long haul flights can really mess you up! :)

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I think I've proposed that exact fitting myself in the past!

 

However...it would mean a soldered joint deeper in the wall. If I go with @Nickfromwales idea of the soldered joint close to the front then if it does go tits up and leak I've only got to break one tile out and I can get at the fitting easily. I'm aiming for no joints in the wall other than where the pipes connect to the shower valve.

Solder it and do as per my pic ;)

If it leaks, I'll eat my hat, his hat AND your hat. 

Crack on boyo :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the mitred corner ply in (temporarily :) ) and each edge fixed where the red clouds are. Pretty secure tbh. Just playing with the shower valve and riser rail positions...

 

20180410_210519

 

Thereafter I'll insulate the Hell out of that corner!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't mount the slide rail too low - I did this once and it is a right pain for anyone of a normal height.  In the new house I've allowed plenty of height - easier to lower the head than move the slide rail later....

 

Its shaping up now.  When you get the boards up - it will look very different again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, CC45 said:

don't mount the slide rail too low - I did this once and it is a right pain for anyone of a normal height.  In the new house I've allowed plenty of height - easier to lower the head than move the slide rail later....

 

Its shaping up now.  When you get the boards up - it will look very different again.

 

Yep. I'm seriously trying to set it at a height that's both convenient now and makes a nod towards Part M if we ever need to sit. Tbh I'll be under the rainfall head when I'm in there!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...