Tennentslager Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I think you will do a top job...thing is, I hope you are happy with it? and Mrs one-off too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I tell thee, Cut the flag off the 2nd trim and gripfill, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, Steptoe said: I tell thee, Cut the flag off the 2nd trim and gripfill, Possibly. Was even thinking to try and plane off the opposing lips. That could go VERY wrong! I don't think it has to be "out" by much to end up looking cr@p & have a visible gap between the two quadrants. @Nickfromwales said to (2-part) mitre bond which I'm a big fan of but not sure of my ability to do this perfectly neatly over a +1.8m length. Mulling making a long jig so I maybe secure one piece and spray the activator along the length then stick the second trim on that starting from one end. Or do I use say a white CT1, Sika or anti mould silicon which would give me wriggle room to get the edges nice and butt AND fill any potential gap. Edited January 11, 2017 by Onoff Swear filter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Use clothes pegs 30mm apart and line up the trims. Run some insulation tape over the joint to stop any excess bond from escaping and stitch it with spot welds of mitre bond. Wait 5 mins and remove pegs. Repeat for the gaps in between any shes a good 'un. ? Edit to add : obviously you'll need to cut the mitres on the front strip and assemble this during the tiling process as and when practicable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 35 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Use clothes pegs 30mm apart and line up the trims. Run some insulation tape over the joint to stop any excess bond from escaping and stitch it with spot welds of mitre bond. Wait 5 mins and remove pegs. Repeat for the gaps in between any shes a good 'un. ? Edit to add : obviously you'll need to cut the mitres on the front strip and assemble this during the tiling process as and when practicable. See, this is why you get paid the big bucks! I was wondering how many little spring clamps I had. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 ? Been 20/7 last week so I'll update re trim cutting etc ASAP ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: ? Been 20/7 last week so I'll update re trim cutting etc ASAP ? FFS it's ME! There's really no rush! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Not forgetting the floor tiles..... ROUGH draft of 330x330mm tiles with a 5mm grout: I WAS hoping to do the "wet room" corner later on but not sure how practical that'll be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) @Ferdinand & the brickmaker, what do you think? Edited January 12, 2017 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 they all look blunt! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 you should have got some of these Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 2 hours ago, Simplysimon said: they all look blunt! Done a lot of st/st, the ones on the left! I do have a couple sets of those Ed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Sign for your bathroom door at the end: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) OK, the jury's out on these LED strips. I think we're sitting in the cheap seats! Set on a single colour that'll come back on that setting when you power up and they're great. The one program I wanted, the gradual fade in / out thru the colour range can be a bit jerky between some colours. Enough to annoy me whilst trying to relax in the bath! Needs to be a smoother transition. I may of course be doing the product a disservice as I've bastardised it with the DIY 7-core extension. Running the sensor cores along side the DC lines might be causing an issue? I'll have a go with another set not messed around with. Still it's pretty good for <£10. Worth getting a set just to play with IMO. The little white box is interesting; a 3-core ribbon to the sensor then a 4-core flex coming out of it. According to the pcb inside, the 4-core does Vcc then R, G & B aka "RGB". So the flex from the white box goes: Vcc - Black core R - White core G - Green core B - Red core Easy enough to ditch the short white lead and go direct to the pcb with an extension cable. BUT the original short lead to the lights is done "properly" with the cable cores matching the RGB colours. Anyway, I just quickly tacked the extrusion up and pulled the 7-core thru the flexible conduit. Conduit inside the dwarf wall, along the side and round the back. Just coiled up in the bath recess at the mo. Tbh I'd like it dimmer and more "subtle": The conduit is slightly over length possibly. To be trimmed to suit the tile depth: Video to come! I tried one on the phone but the quality's naff so I'll do on the tablet later as it was too late last night. Of course it's all got to come out for tiling! Edited January 13, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: Sign for your bathroom door at the end: Liking it! The overall shape is easy enough out of a bit of MDF. I'll probably print the lettering onto a piece of paper, glue to the mdf then carefully route out. As for the raised relief work....."pipe it" with No Nails or similar? Edited January 13, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Taken on the boy's Motorola phone but difficult to do the issue justice. It looks better than the video shows generally and not as "glaring". About 10 seconds from the end when it goes from dark red to white there's a flicker. I'll maybe try again when the Samsung tablet is charged up. No diffuser fitted as yet so that may help. I've also tried another "genuine" PSU from one of these kits and it makes no difference. Also tried another strip of lights and it's the same. Tbh the wife is quite happy with it. Maybe be it's me being pedantic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Just adding a perimeter lip with 20mm of 12mm ply. Glued and stainless panel pinned about every 75mm: The idea is that the bath lip will be outboard of the ply lip. The tiles will abut the ply near enough and the whole thing sat on a good thick mastic bead: I've also screwed the marine ply deck down with stainless screws. The one question mark is the use of D3 Gorilla glue throughout! Next a tanking coat of "something", tba! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 5 hours ago, Onoff said: Maybe be it's me being pedantic. PMSL You don't think ?!? On 13/01/2017 at 04:23, Onoff said: The overall shape is easy enough out of a bit of MDF. I'll probably print the lettering onto a piece of paper, glue to the mdf then carefully route out. As for the raised relief work....."pipe it" with No Nails or similar? FFS........ Ill buy you the bastard thing if you hurry up and get some tiles on. ? ?????? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) I do believe I'm ready for a test filling of the bath! Plan then is: 1) Remove the removable half of the bath. Brackets just inside the long side panel: There's also a screw to the floor batten at the foot of the bath which will also have a removable panel. Also via this panel, 3 st/st screws from below (need trimming): 2) Slide the bath in an TEMPORARILY fit the waste relying on the rubber washers around the waste. 3) Fill up the bath and check for leaks around the jets and solvent waste. 4) Test run the pump and light. Now the tiling questions, apologies if already asked: Do I half fill or fill the bath? Something to do with checking how it sits? I assume when I've filled it I can gauge the gap I'll have all round between the underside of the bath lip and the ply deck. Should I look to tile the alcove first where the LED strip is going? Thinking leaning across once the bath is in will be difficult. What tanking liquid do I prime the ply with? At the back, behind where your head will be this is only moisture resistant plasterboard. Should I prime it with something too or does it need some sort of tanking "membrane": So.....if it all doesn't leak remove the bath and refit, properly sticking the waste with Sika. Erm.....that's as far as I've figured! Edited January 15, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) A milestone for me. I finally fitted the trap and overflow to the bath. Followed @Nickfromwales instructions to the letter though my thought's on a "smear" of Sika I'm thinking differ. When I've done sinks in the past (and maybe one bath years ago?) the rubber has never really fitted the hole properly and it's looked naff with Boss white of whatever was avaialable. I ditched one washer as he said and loaded with Sika EBT. The top side has come out really well IMO. Removed the excess with a wet wipe which was another top tip and I didn't get that messy! The less visible areas.....? AND I didn't turn the trap as I did it all up! Edited January 20, 2017 by Onoff 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 tell the misses we are all very proud of you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Trying to pluck up the courage to go into the unheated hip end of the roof to run hot and cold to the bath. New pipes come up just in front of the coil of coax top left. Available hot and colds are bottom right where they disappear under the dormer 9"x6" either side of the branch off the white tee. (Those three feed the upstairs en suite basin. (Sad when I've been working 300' up all week without issue but that, when in the sun was actually very pleasant). Now back to the reality of how bad the existing pipe runs really are and how much heat I must be losing en route to the bathroom. Best clear some space in there & get that heater on for a couple of hours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 HTF did I manage to get the one pipe slightly too short? New hot run: Little snakey bend from new to old: Haven't even got to this mess yet, can see it but need to remove the partial floor above in the eaves: HOWEVER..... Just got to sort the cold tomorrow and it's bath time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Cheated with the short pipe: Feeds to bath in and working. Still to insulate. Ends in compressions to allow connection to the "old" for now. Should look a lot tidier once I sort the wastes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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