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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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3 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

At least my SHED's built! :)

 

whaddaya mean? I re-homed the playhouse and re-felted the roof in the rain over Chrimbo* in preparation for the shed build.

 

I was going to do it this weekend but its probably too cold for concrete posting and the wife is working.  need the shed so I can clear the utility room and we can fit that out and maybe sort the remains of the heating.

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Just squinted at that revision after coffee #2, and I think the pockets should go up one course. :ph34r:

Apart from that, pure perfection. Slightly wider mosaic strips to get the cut tile out of the way? How many other vertical strips are there, and would them being widened to match cause issue?

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After much erring I've decided to go with what I'm comfortable with, bog standard downlights in the ceiling. The procrastination stemmed from me having "wrapped" the bathroom in a vcl in an attempt to isolate it from the rest the house. I was so worried about penetrating this airtight layer! I considered putting in a false ceiling even. More relaxed now as in the future I plan major roof mods that will put the loft space above the bathroom within the thermal envelope. A bit of planning to ensure nice, neat galv conduit runs to each lamp position such is my rat/squirrel/mouse paranoia! :)

 

https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/enlite-e8-8w-fixed-dimmable-fire-rated-led-downlight-cool-white

 

Lamps on order!

Edited by Onoff
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19 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Nice lights. :)

 

Pretty sure I'll go with Quinetic Kinetic switching so I can have one as I enter the bathroom and one within easy reach whilst in the bath. Just hope the signal gets through the foil on the pir! £66 for 1 switch and 3 receivers if I go:

 

Sw1 - downlights,

Sw2 - pocket / bath side panel 

Sw3 - the rc LED strip alongside the bath.

 

Have to mull that over.

 

QUE13S.JPG.821b7dc01879716b10cc1bdf1450410c.JPG

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Just now, Onoff said:

 

Pretty sure I'll go with Quinetic Kinetic switching so I can have one as I enter the bathroom and one within easy reach whilst in the bath. Just hope the signal gets through the foil on the pir! £66 for 1 switch and 3 receivers if I go:

 

Sw1 - downlights,

Sw2 - pocket / bath side panel 

Sw3 - the rc LED strip alongside the bath.

 

Have to mull that over.

 

 

I've just literally quoted a job ( well JUST before my poxy arm injury ) in a brand new static caravan. I saw these in my local TLC and thought they'd save a lot of trunking. Deffo will be featuring in bathroom jobs of the future. :)

The ones I DO love are the sensor / proximity ones that @PeterW linked, where you put the sensor behind a tile / other, and simply swipe your hand past it to bring a light / other On or off. That's the dogs bollocks, but for a lesser budget these Kinetic ones are superb. ?

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5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Put the receiver under the bath ;)  

 

I've got a "riser cupboard" left where I shifted the doorway so likely everything will go in there rather than the loft. Makes everything accessible and puts outside the bathroom. Bath control box will live there, UFH sensor probe comes up there, bath strip LED controller. From there I'll tube up into the loft and run singles to each point. 

 

Don't forget this lot:

 

http://www.taptilecontrols.com

Edited by Onoff
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Am I missing something?

 

Shower components arrived. The 3-way valve seems OK with all it's packaging intact and sealed but the slider rail box is torn and the indivudual component packages open and a bit grubby. On the right angled wall outlet isn't this supposed to come with a locknut? Also there are no instructions in the box.

 

 

20180111_102229

 

20180111_102314

 

I'm on to the supplier shortly!

Edited by Onoff
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>:(>:(>:( No response from the shower suppliers and I've emailed to both their sales@ & info@ addresses with a nice, polite email asking if the elbow should come with a locknut etc. 

 

I used them before and when there was a delay they were on the ball in communicating and apologising hence my using them again.

 

A phone call next I guess then if no joy name and shame here and see if I can get any joy with the credit card company. I still don't really know if there's a bit missing though there must be what with no instructions / the box torn etc.

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3 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

A phone call next I guess then if no joy name and shame here and see if I can get any joy with the credit card company. I still don't really know if there's a bit missing though there must be what with no instructions / the box torn etc.

 

I’m not sure there is a bit missing. The crosswater ones I’ve bought don’t come with anything. 

They just screw into a 1/2” bsp wall plate or angled connector. 

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2 hours ago, Barney12 said:

 

I’m not sure there is a bit missing. The crosswater ones I’ve bought don’t come with anything. 

They just screw into a 1/2” bsp wall plate or angled connector. 

 

 

What to they do for a seal?

 

The ones I have (just looked at a spare, slightly different design) have had seals on the rear of the thing to seal against the tiles/wall.  The spare I've just looked at has an O ring in a  groove on the back, and judging from the annular rebate in the one pictured I'd have thought a seal may fit in there?

 

Ours also had a back nut with a big flange to hold the thing in place and pull it back tight to the shower wall board we used.  The elbow sat back from this and would never had been able to pull the fitting tight up against the wall, it was a good 50mm back inside the wall.

Edited by JSHarris
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25 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

What to they do for a seal?

 

The elbow, from hose connector to brass male passes through the chrome ring:

 

20180113_164237

 

There's an O ring that tbh gives a pretty good seal around the elbow.

 

20180113_164258

 

But that's it, nothing else comes with it. Beats me how its supposed to go through a tile and lock / seal! 

 

Still nothing from the suppluer. I'll phone on Monday. 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Onoff said:

But that's it, nothing else comes with it. Beats me how its supposed to go through a tile and lock / seal! 

 

Still nothing from the suppluer. I'll phone on Monday. 

 

 

 

Beats me, too.  Both the ones I've fitted have been on to shower wallboard, and in both cases I just drilled a hole, fitted the shower hose fitting up tight with a back nut to the wallboard before I fixed it to the wall permanently, then fitted the elbow.  On one, which was fixed to a solid block wall, I chiselled out a channel in the wall and fitted a flexible hose with an elbow on the end to the 1/2" BSM threaded stub, on the other, I just used the flex in the plastic pipe coming up inside the stud wall to give me enough room to fix things.  Both times the hose connector was fitted tight and then blanked off for a pressure test before I finally bonded the wallboard back.

Edited by JSHarris
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@Onoff

I've never had one with a backnut. Tbh, it's rare to get rear access so you'd never get to fit one anyway. 

The one you've got fits as follows. :

1) you measure the diameter of the fitting, the chrome bit after the brass thread.

2) you get that size tile hole saw and make a hole 2-3mm bigger. 

3) you fit an outside tap backplate into the wall at about 1/4" shy of finished tile face. 

4) you tile and grout after blanking the outlet and pressure testing. 

5) turn the fitting into the outlet until its tight. At this stage it'll likely have bottomed out without the chrome going past the tile face. 

6) measure what you need for the chrome bit to finish 3-4mm into the tile. 

7) cut that much off the brass thread. 

8) you put 22-26 turns of ptfe onto the last 25mm of thread ( so 50 turns or so in total to get the thread covered ) 

9) turn the outlet into the backplate until it's pointing down and just shy of proud of the tile face ( slightly recessed )

10) do not go so far that you have to back turn anti clockwise 

11) clear ct1 the tile hole tobthe brass thread by pumping it full.  

12 ) push the cover ring down the outlet until it rests on the tile. It's NOT there as a waterproof seal, and the rubber o-ring is only a friction ring to keep it parked. The ct1 forms the watertight element.   

 

Clear as mud ?

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Saved by the @Nickfromwales!

 

Seriously, thanks a lot.

 

So one of these:

 

ae235.jpeg.c8f36388b9dc30f0977489a40367f6e6.jpeg

 

It was throwing me as I thought the elbow was supposed to rotate once on. Much clearer now.

 

Point 8) though.....do you mean 22-26 turns on the last inch then another 22-26 on the remainder of the thread?

 

Interesting on the elbow how you can get an Allen key in both the chrome hose bit and brass threaded bits. What's that all about, just for holding things?

Edited by Onoff
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