ProDave Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 It should certainly be touch dry by tomorrow, but still "green" in that it won't be anywhere near full strength. If it were a driveway we would be saying don't drive your car on it for a week. Just take care not to knock the posts while it is curing. Have a few days off to so another job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/curing-concrete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 https://www.hanson-packedproducts.co.uk/en/products/concretes/fast-set-postfix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 https://sydenhams.s3.amazonaws.com/Landscaping/Fixings and Post Fix/hansoncementitoussheetpostfix.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 27, 2022 Author Share Posted August 27, 2022 12 hours ago, TonyT said: https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/curing-concrete Hi TT. Thanks that's helpful.. Huge load of info for a newbie though. Ok what I've done is shroud base of post with a dust sheet, sun on it otherwise. So I'll just leave like so, 4+ days. Someone say if I'm meant to do summat else to aid curing-? Otherwise I'll assume it's ok as is. Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 27, 2022 Share Posted August 27, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 Chaps, I've mostly got my frame & pillars done. Ive used goldscrews, & all seems firm, but perhaps not sufficient in the longrun-? So I need advice on what fixings to use for: fixing the doubled-up outer 6x2 frame together/ to each other. And for the doubled-up frame, to the notched two pillars; I have threaded bar that can be used, would be very strong etc, but not a great look? Two rod ends/ nuts on show at front etc. The 'mericun video chap just fires through (120mm?) torq looking serious screws, right thru both doubled frame 6x2's > into the pillar notch. I'm not sure I have enough torque in my driver, or drill bit long enough to help with a pilot hole to do this. I wonder in I could fix one of the two 6x2's to the pillar notch ( the frame front 6x2), using rod. Then flatbit a hole in the second 6x2 ( this doubles up the frame for strength, & sits on the notch too: is the outer/ front beam as it were).. & sit my threaded rod end/ nut into the flatbit hole to hide it. Then it's what to fix the front 6x2, to the second one behind ( & if I need to go onward into the pillar?) Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 Here's the notch, with the frame temporarily fixed into pillar behind. I now need to better fix these together, I presume-? The beam in foreground goes horizontally onto the notch too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 And my side outer frame; I'm presuming using goldscrews here wouldn't be your choice: but being visible here ( front drive, head height) I'm not sure turbo screws is the right choice, their silver heads protruding etc. Turbos fine for my cabin base as all are not really seen underneath/ under-side etc, but not sure the correct choice here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 IE, this look for the front (with rod end) would be too 'agricultural' surely? Coach bolts I can't think how could be used as would spin/ head can't lock into anything in the timber, but a better front look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 Not too shabby tho so far? Front beam/ to frame & pillars, & nogs not fixed in yet. Pleased with my notches.. circ saw defo the right tool to use. Thanks, zh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 Every hole in the joist hangers should have a nail in it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 22 minutes ago, TonyT said: Every hole in the joist hangers should have a nail in it. Im not fixing these yet -- Could anyone help on effectively 'what screws' I need to fix timber to timber? I've only ever used goldscrews ( seem inadequate & notice they rust) or turbo screws ( seem too unsightly, as seen/ these very visible/ don't seem the right choice). Thanks, Zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 Galv nails. Nails for shear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 5 hours ago, TonyT said: Galv nails. Nails for shear Ok TT another helpful reply.. thanks. Looked up sheer, soI think you suggest nails bc they have better side strength or something. Are you recommending lost head types, or std round heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 Someone tell me if these nails are 'galvanised'? https://www.toolstation.com/round-wire-nail-pack/p64977?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2fC6xQ5obGm4EsdVB1gZoMcArV8PGjY0LUAokqUfeiPzQVkHD7v_gxoC4SwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Thanks, zh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundtuit Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 So go to your tool station website type in galvanised nails And a list appears 2nd on the list…. you need a hammer too.. bit I will let you Google that…. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 29, 2022 Author Share Posted August 29, 2022 11 hours ago, TonyT said: So go to your tool station website type in galvanised nails And a list appears 2nd on the list…. you need a hammer too.. bit I will let you Google that…. TT, I've done all the obvious like this. I need 120mm or 125mm. This rules out all galv ones in screwfix & toolstn. I was merely asking is 'round wire' was another way of saying galvanised. Or whether, if nails within the wood bar the heads.. why galv ones needed: I asked this before, but buried within 20 pages, it'll take an hour to find: easier to ask again. Simple stuff to you, but getting the right thing so this structure remains strong, takes me much time to research- I could do without sarcasm tbh. Thanks, zh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 29, 2022 Author Share Posted August 29, 2022 12 hours ago, Roundtuit said: No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉 No 'bright nails' on page 17. No idea what you mean. Could you just not say what it is you're implying instead-? Is 'bright' a term for 'galvanised' or something?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 (edited) https://www.toolstation.com/screws-fixings/galvanised-nails/c107 "bright" means raw uncoated metal. edit: and these for the joist hangers https://www.toolstation.com/sheradised-joist-hanger-nail/p96841 Edited August 29, 2022 by dpmiller additional link 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 29, 2022 Author Share Posted August 29, 2022 2 hours ago, dpmiller said: https://www.toolstation.com/screws-fixings/galvanised-nails/c107 "bright" means raw uncoated metal. edit: and these for the joist hangers https://www.toolstation.com/sheradised-joist-hanger-nail/p96841 You're a star thanks.. I trawled their site a good few times but adamant 125mm galv ones I didn't find. Sure of it. Yup got the joist hanger ones ok. Whilst you're there dpm, could I ask: what you'd suggest to fix through the doubled up 6x2's... into the two pillar notches? I have St.St 8mm threaded rod.. but wouldn't a bare rod end/ big washer/ nut look a bit shoddy on front? All I have here mind you. Or do this.. just flat wood bit recess them in on front? Maybe fill up with brown silocone to hide them later. Thanks, zh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 Acorn nut instead of ordinary one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 29, 2022 Author Share Posted August 29, 2022 Progress today- front beam bolts will have to be. One mistake.. I can't get access to the joist hangers nearest pillars! I'm still waiting on concrete to fully cure before I start hammering in sidewards, to fix my joists in. 4 days today. (Screws more sensible/ less stress on pillar spikes-?) Can start getting deck board timbers, should bd easy job. Thanks all- Zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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