It should certainly be touch dry by tomorrow, but still "green" in that it won't be anywhere near full strength.  If it were a driveway we would be saying don't drive your car on it for a week.

 

Just take care not to knock the posts while it is curing.  Have a few days off to so another job.

https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/curing-concrete

 

 

https://www.hanson-packedproducts.co.uk/en/products/concretes/fast-set-postfix

https://sydenhams.s3.amazonaws.com/Landscaping/Fixings and Post Fix/hansoncementitoussheetpostfix.pdf

12 hours ago, TonyT said:

https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/curing-concrete

 

 

Hi TT. Thanks that's helpful..

 

Huge load of info for a newbie though.
 

Ok what I've done is shroud base of post with a dust sheet, sun on it otherwise. So I'll just leave like so, 4+ days. 

 

Someone say if I'm meant to do summat else to aid curing-? Otherwise I'll assume it's ok as is.

 

Thanks, zoot

 

 

Chaps,

 

I've mostly got my frame & pillars done. Ive used goldscrews, & all seems firm,  but perhaps not sufficient in the longrun-?

 

So I need advice on what fixings to use for: fixing the doubled-up outer 6x2 frame together/ to each other.
 

And for the doubled-up frame, to the notched two pillars; I have threaded bar that can be used, would be very strong etc, but not a great look? Two rod ends/ nuts on show at front etc.

 

The 'mericun video chap just fires through (120mm?) torq looking serious screws, right thru both doubled frame 6x2's > into the pillar notch. I'm not sure I have enough torque in my driver, or drill bit long enough to help with a pilot hole to do this.

 

I wonder in I could fix one of the two 6x2's to the pillar notch ( the frame front 6x2), using rod. Then flatbit a hole in the second 6x2 ( this doubles up the frame for strength, & sits on the notch too: is the outer/ front beam as it were).. & sit my threaded rod end/ nut into the flatbit hole to hide it.

 

Then it's what to fix the front 6x2, to the second one behind ( & if I need to go onward into the pillar?)

 

Thanks, zoot

 

Here's the notch, with the frame temporarily fixed into pillar behind. I now need to better fix these together, I presume-?

 

The beam in foreground goes horizontally onto the notch too.
 

 

 

And my side outer frame; I'm presuming using goldscrews here wouldn't be your choice: but being visible here ( front drive, head height) I'm not sure turbo screws is the right choice, their silver heads protruding etc.

 

Turbos fine for my cabin base as all are not really seen underneath/ under-side etc, but not sure the correct choice here.

 

 

 

IE, this look for the front (with rod end) would be too 'agricultural' surely?

 

Coach bolts I can't think how could be used as would spin/ head can't lock into anything in the timber, but a better front look. 
 

 

 

 

 

Not too shabby tho so far? Front beam/ to frame & pillars, & nogs not fixed in yet. Pleased with my notches.. circ saw defo the right tool to use.

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every hole in the joist hangers should have a nail in it.

22 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Every hole in the joist hangers should have a nail in it.

Im not fixing these yet

 

--

 

Could anyone help on effectively 'what screws' I need to fix timber to timber?
 

I've only ever used goldscrews ( seem inadequate & notice they rust) or turbo screws ( seem too unsightly, as seen/ these very visible/ don't seem the right choice).

 

Thanks, Zoot

Galv nails.  Nails for shear 

5 hours ago, TonyT said:

Galv nails.  Nails for shear 

Ok TT another helpful reply.. thanks.

 

Looked up sheer, soI think you suggest nails bc they have better side strength or something.

 

Are you recommending lost head types, or std round heads?

 Someone tell me if these nails are 'galvanised'?

 

https://www.toolstation.com/round-wire-nail-pack/p64977?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2fC6xQ5obGm4EsdVB1gZoMcArV8PGjY0LUAokqUfeiPzQVkHD7v_gxoC4SwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Thanks, zh

No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉

So go to your tool station website 

type in galvanised nails

And a list appears 2nd on the list…. you need a hammer too.. bit I will let you Google that….

11 hours ago, TonyT said:

So go to your tool station website 

type in galvanised nails

And a list appears 2nd on the list…. you need a hammer too.. bit I will let you Google that….

TT, I've done all the obvious like this. I need 120mm or 125mm. This rules out all galv ones in screwfix & toolstn.

 

I was merely asking is 'round wire' was another way of saying galvanised. Or whether, if nails within the wood bar the heads.. why galv ones needed: I asked this before, but buried within 20 pages, it'll take an hour to find: easier to ask again.

 

Simple stuff to you, but getting the right thing so this structure remains strong, takes me much time to research- I could do without sarcasm tbh.

Thanks, zh

 

12 hours ago, Roundtuit said:

No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉

No 'bright nails' on page 17. No idea what you mean.

 

Could you just not say what it is you're implying instead-?
 

Is 'bright' a term for 'galvanised' or something??

 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/screws-fixings/galvanised-nails/c107

 

"bright" means raw uncoated metal.

 

edit:

and these for the joist hangers

 

https://www.toolstation.com/sheradised-joist-hanger-nail/p96841

Edited August 29, 20224 yr by dpmiller
additional link

2 hours ago, dpmiller said:

https://www.toolstation.com/screws-fixings/galvanised-nails/c107

 

"bright" means raw uncoated metal.

 

edit:

and these for the joist hangers

 

https://www.toolstation.com/sheradised-joist-hanger-nail/p96841

You're a star thanks.. I trawled their site a good few times but adamant 125mm galv ones I didn't find. Sure of it.

 

Yup got the joist hanger ones ok.

 

Whilst you're there dpm, could I ask: what you'd suggest to fix through the doubled up 6x2's... into the two pillar notches?

 

I have St.St 8mm threaded rod.. but wouldn't a bare rod end/ big washer/ nut look a bit shoddy on front? All I have here mind you. Or do this.. just flat wood bit recess them in on front? Maybe fill up with brown silocone to hide them later.

 

Thanks, zh

Acorn nut instead of ordinary one?

Progress today- front beam bolts will have to be. One mistake.. I can't get access to the joist hangers nearest pillars!

 

I'm still waiting on concrete to fully cure before I start hammering in sidewards, to fix my joists in. 4 days today. (Screws more sensible/ less stress on pillar spikes-?)

 

Can start getting deck board timbers, should bd easy job.

 

Thanks all- Zoothorn