PeterW Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 You can use LS-X to seal this sort of joint but it's not great as if you do need to undo it then it's a pain ... just sounds like tolerances are out on something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 It may be the brass of the fitting is flawed. Double check exactly where it's weeping from before considering a leak sealing product. I've split brass items before, ( a good few times TBH ), by over PTFE'ing them and over tightening. Check this isn't the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 My favourite is Rocol Gas Seal of all things. Works excellently at lubricating the threads / filling the valleys and is almost completely non-setting. The jet blue / boss white stuff isn't bad TBH, but I don't find it smears as well unless you've put quite a bit on. Always dismount compression stuff after final assembly to remove any excess product from the interval bore of the pipe / fitting or just be VERY sparing when applying.....a little goes a long way 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: My favourite is Rocol Gas Seal of all things. Works excellently at lubricating the threads / filling the valleys and is almost completely non-setting. The jet blue / boss white stuff isn't bad TBH, but I don't find it smears as well unless you've put quite a bit on. Always dismount compression stuff after final assembly to remove any excess product from the interval bore of the pipe / fitting or just be VERY sparing when applying.....a little goes a long way Only reason I didn't go for the Rocol is I didn't think it was for use on potable supplies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Laco Slic-tite is superb. I use it on steam air and gas and it's pretty impressive stuff. A bit messy perhaps but seals up every time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 @dpmiller, @JSHarris, @jamiehamy, @Peter M, @Onoff, @Bitpipe, @Crofter, @Temp, @Barney12 and all of you: you speak in tongues. Piccies, gimme piccies of what you's all gabblin' about; please! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 11 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said: @dpmiller, @JSHarris, @jamiehamy, @Peter M, @Onoff, @Bitpipe, @Crofter, @Temp, @Barney12 and all of you: you speak in tongues. Piccies, gimme piccies of what you's all gabblin' about; please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 I love my Rectorseal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Liquid PTFE: http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j?_requestid=340465 To undo joints sealed with this stuff, just warm them up a bit and they are easy to undo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Rectum damn near killed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Rectum damn near killed them. Explain ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Explain ! His thinking went Rectorseal...that lead to rectum as in "wrecked 'em"... Try saying it in an English accent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Bloody foreigners ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) 17 hours ago, recoveringacademic said: @dpmiller, @JSHarris, @jamiehamy, @Peter M, @Onoff, @Bitpipe, @Crofter, @Temp, @Barney12 and all of you: you speak in tongues. Piccies, gimme piccies of what you's all gabblin' about; please! Here you go. This is a basin spout. When screwed into the elbow it contacts the wall tiles before becoming fully tight and ends up pointing in the 4 O'clock position rather than the required 6 O'clock. So you have to undo it almost a full turn to get it vertical. That leaves a gap between the spout and the wall. We ended up using a Dremel to remove a little of the tile to allow us to tighten it up a bit more. This type of outside tap can also be a problem.... If you just screw the tap into the elbow chances are it will be pointing sideways when it's tight. You have to apply lots of tape and hope it's reasonably tight once you get to the vertical position. Now imagine that problem when the elbow is hidden in a wall and the tiles are on. Not only must the fitting end up vertical but also the right depth relative to the face of the tiles. Edited June 24, 2017 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 regarding the outside tap i always fit the tap to the through the wall fitting first. then you fix the back plate after so you can always make sure its vertical. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Just now, joe90 said: regarding the outside tap i always fit the tap to the through the wall fitting first. then you fix the back plate after so you can always make sure its vertical. Yes, that works for a rear-entry outside tap fitting, but doesn't for the ones with the pipe coming in at the bottom. We have two like that, both with MDPE pipe coming up from underneath, and it's one application where the liquid PTFE is a godsend, as you can just apply the stuff, screw the tap on until it's near-enough tight, but straight, then leave it for a while for the sealant to cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 3 hours ago, joe90 said: regarding the outside tap i always fit the tap to the through the wall fitting first. then you fix the back plate after so you can always make sure its vertical. Nah! The "Welsh" method is what you want! Fit the outside tap brass back plate so the 3 holes are nice and symmetrical. Then twenty something turns of PTFE tape on the thread and screw in the tap. You'll know when to stop and it'll be nice and level! (9bar on this btw). (Copyright @Nickfromwales ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 This is my offending item - although the liquid PTFE *seems* to have done the trick. All great suggestions tho, thank you :-) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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