Jump to content

Solar Thermal From Scrap...AGAIN!


Onoff

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

I was told that you should never use a soldered joint on solar thermal.

May be just on high temperature or pressurized systems though.

 

Good shout. Though if I get to temperatures hot enough to soften / melt solder I'll be a happy chap as I reach for the compression joints! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the subject of heat damaging components I'm still a bit concerned about this American obsession with using 'foil faced poly iso" i.e PIR to insulate their solar thermal panels. They reckon it's the best thing.

 

I was under the impression it would melt/catch fire at the sort of temperatures achievable but maybe that's EPS?

 

If not then 50mm of Wickes finest, on offer Celotex will be going on! It'd mean I could ditch the reflective aluminium sheet I've used before above the Rockwool / under the can stack. I'll probably insulate around the perimeter too this time.

 

P4180273_zpsb7be5f53

 

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally speaking. PUs don't catch fire these days, they have a retardant in them as part of the mix (remember the Manchester Woolworth's fire 1979).

 

If the celotex, or similar, is not in direct contact with the cans/tubes, then there will be little distortion/melting.

http://www.talkcomposites.com/22732/celotex-in-a-composites-oven

Edited by SteamyTea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

How shallow an angle can you mount these at?

 

You can lay it flat if you like but the flatter you go the less the principle of "hot air rises" applies and you'll maybe be losing heat back off of the panel.  (You only have to consider how hot a black surface like tarmac gets). A lot of the Americans mount their space heating ones vertically on the SIDE of the house.

 

I take the lead from the PV panels and aim at about 45degs generally only because it'll likely end up on a house roof.

 

I'm mulling that if I did one on say a shallow pitch roof like a shed I'd take the cans into a length of 110mm soil pipe or similar steel ducting if I could get it (maybe even a run of Party 7s:) ). The duct would be parallel to the ridge of the shed. I'd cap one end and draw hot air from the other via a PV backed 12V fan. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something like this I guess for a shallow pitch with an "apex" take off pipe? Cans painted black under glass (blue), draw up from the bottom into the larger collecting tube at the top suitably insulated. Ply carcass (brown) with a lead cap (black). Lets be honest, if you were clever you'd build it into the shed roof design from the start and save on a bit of felt :) No reason why that bottom 18mm board couldn't be the OSB shed roof itself. You could then draw heat DOWN via a 110mm T:

 

shed_001.JPG.ba86cb3a853dbf58e63724e50fb96542.JPG

 

(Good luck getting magenta soil pipe though.......... :) )

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Don't you want the glass to cover the top, stops rainwater pooling at the lower edge.

Or you could just mastic on a second sheet of glass to totally cover it.

 

I've just shown a lead flashing (as in if money were no object :) ). Figured a run of sealant between that and the "glass". Not sure where it would pool?

 

Only playing with it tbh.

 

EDIT: I'll get bored soon!

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Liking it, but the shed roof would need to produce wet thermal heat to warm my TS's ? Got me thinking of an 'active' roof now made at a steeper angle out of 30mm box section steel......

? Back to work. 

For some reason I thought you wanted to just space heat the shed. 

 

So.....could you take the hot air stream thru a coil in the tank instead of the usual water in the coil? Would the temperature lessen as you reduced the pipe size?

 

As you can guess I'm firing on random today! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And continuing the mad musing after a beer and armed with a craft knife & pair of scissors:

 

The "clip fin" design solar thermal panel is where black painted aluminium (or ideally copper) fins are attached to a copper pipe matrix to heat water. With ali it's important they are held tight to the copper. Yes, I know you can buy them (or at least could) and tbh they should be thicker sheet......but.....

A 440ml Fosters can yields a nice piece of aluminium. I think about 0.25mm thick:
 

20170428_195444

 

 

20170428_195608

 

Add a pipe clip as a former and run it up and down:

 

 

20170428_195926

 

Looks like a clip fin to me:

 

 

20170428_200233

 

Except it springs out of shape when you take the clips off:
 

20170428_200257

 

However.....the metal is so thin I reckon you could stick it to foil backed PIR with foil tape to keep the shape? Or maybe make a full length clip out of something?
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I knew I should not have read this thread.

 

DIY Beer can UFH spreader plates anyone?

 

if it's for @AliG's 504sq.m ground floor I might need some assistance emptying the cans! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha. I was wondering how I came up in this forum.

 

21275 cans according to the measurement shown in the pic!

 

I just paid for the tiles today, Foster's cans may have been cheaper!

Edited by AliG
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...