Ben100 Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap. How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window... Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Put a 25mm timber in, to take up the gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben100 Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 Ok, that simple. And I guess I'll just have to cut down the timber where 25mm is too thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Probably best to do some remedial work on the VCL too and tie it into the velux frame before fitting the extra batten. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 18 minutes ago, Ben100 said: Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap. How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window... Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers Watch this: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 19 minutes ago, Ben100 said: How is this usually done? They usually sit an an angle to maximise light spread and reduce the "tunnel" effect up to the window. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Put 25mm insulation e.g kingspan / Celotex etc. Long PB screws through the insulation into the timber. If that is not exactly the right thickness then pack with plywood etc or whatever makes it up to being a square fit. Don't forget to detail your membrane up to the window with all joints taped and all bits filled and taped to the windows before you fit the insulation and plasterboard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 I have seen Robin’s video and to be honest I’ve never seen in done that way in my neck of the woods, the reveals are always square with the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) I fitted our plasterboard at an angle to increase light and foamed it in with Soudal low expansion foam. Edited January 27, 2021 by PeterStarck 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialuser Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben100 Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 Thanks all, I went for the angled approach. Still needs a tidy up around the edges, but it’s looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 For the splay detail it's worth making sure your tile battens don't have to span too far so a nogging can take the bounce out. Also, if you are up on the roof giving the window a deep clean say then you don't want to damage the flashing if you step too near. For wider windows then the nogging has to be increased in size. This is a part detail but this mono pitch roof has timber sarking boards, counter batten, batten and breathable membrane. The fillet at ceiling level gives you a wider target for fixing the insulated plaster board at the bottom of the splay and you can maintain the minimum edge distance for the plasterboard fixings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 15 hours ago, PeterStarck said: I fitted our plasterboard at an angle to increase light and foamed it in with Soudal low expansion foam. Yes - that's what I'd do, I think that looks smart, gives it a little more interest as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 16 hours ago, ProDave said: Put 25mm insulation e.g kingspan / Celotex etc. Long PB screws through the insulation into the timber. If that is not exactly the right thickness then pack with plywood etc or whatever makes it up to being a square fit. That’s exactly what I did as I did not want the cold bridge from the uninsulated timber. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights, tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav_P Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 I wish I had seen this before doing my roof windows, these sloped reveals look so much better than square. I will definitely do this next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 10 hours ago, SuperJohnG said: These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights, tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? I have done this before with a stop bead and also adjusted a normal angle bead to suit the angle. I do not think there is a specific bead as there would be hundreds of them to suit every application. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LA3222 Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 (edited) On 09/02/2021 at 23:42, SuperJohnG said: These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights, tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? Just stumbled on this, plasterboaring velux will be a job at some point. I have two big velux in the sunroof, I didn't do angled reveals. Edited February 13, 2021 by LA3222 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 1 hour ago, LA3222 said: Just stumbled on this, plasterboaring velux will be a job at some point. I have two big velux in the sunroof, I didn't do angled reveals. Some amount of light in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben100 Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 I ended up adding a slight angle to my reveals. Really happy with how they've turned out! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now