Internal plasterboard detailing

[Ben100]

Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap.

 

How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window...

 

Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TonyT]

Put a 25mm timber in, to take up the gap

[Ben100]

Ok, that simple. And I guess I'll just have to cut down the timber where 25mm is too thick.

[TonyT]

Probably best to do some remedial work on the VCL too and tie it into the velux frame before fitting the extra batten.

[Carrerahill]

18 minutes ago, Ben100 said:

Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap.

 

How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window...

 

Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

 

Watch this: 

 

 

[Carrerahill]

19 minutes ago, Ben100 said:

How is this usually done?

They usually sit an an angle to maximise light spread and reduce the "tunnel" effect up to the window.

 

[ProDave]

Put 25mm insulation e.g kingspan / Celotex etc.  Long PB screws through the insulation into the timber.  If that is not exactly the right thickness then pack with plywood etc or whatever makes it up to being a square fit.

 

Don't forget to detail your membrane up to the window with all joints taped and all bits filled and taped to the windows before you fit the insulation and plasterboard.

[TonyT]

I have seen Robin’s video and to be honest I’ve never seen in done that way in my neck of the woods, the reveals are always square with the wall.

 

 

[Gone West]

I fitted our plasterboard at an angle to increase light and foamed it in with Soudal low expansion foam.

 

Edited January 27, 2021 by PeterStarck

[trialuser]

[Ben100]

Thanks all, I went for the angled approach. Still needs a tidy up around the edges, but it’s looking good.

 

[Gus Potter]

 

For the splay detail it's worth making sure your tile battens don't have to span too far so a nogging can take the bounce out. Also, if you are up on the roof giving the window a deep clean say then you don't want to damage the flashing if you step too near. For wider windows then the nogging has to be increased in size.

 

This is a part detail but this mono pitch roof has timber sarking boards, counter batten, batten and breathable membrane. The fillet at ceiling level gives you a wider target for fixing the insulated plaster board at the bottom of the splay and you can maintain the minimum edge distance for the plasterboard fixings.

 

[Carrerahill]

15 hours ago, PeterStarck said:

I fitted our plasterboard at an angle to increase light and foamed it in with Soudal low expansion foam.

 

Yes - that's what I'd do, I think that looks smart, gives it a little more interest as well.

[Cpd]

16 hours ago, ProDave said:

Put 25mm insulation e.g kingspan / Celotex etc.  Long PB screws through the insulation into the timber.  If that is not exactly the right thickness then pack with plywood etc or whatever makes it up to being a square fit.

That’s exactly what I did as I did not want the cold bridge from the uninsulated timber. 

[SuperJohnG]

These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights,  tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? 

[Gav_P]

I wish I had seen this before doing my roof windows, these sloped reveals look so much better than square. I will definitely do this next time. 

[Pete]

10 hours ago, SuperJohnG said:

These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights,  tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? 

I have done this before with a stop bead and also adjusted a normal angle bead to suit the angle. I do not think there is a specific bead as there would be hundreds of them to suit every application. Hope this helps

[LA3222]

On 09/02/2021 at 23:42, SuperJohnG said:

These reveals have popped up on my radar tonight. Anyone done an angled reveal at the top on a sips kit? I have L combi type skylights,  tops of windows 3m off the floor so wondering if it's actually required? 

Just stumbled on this, plasterboaring velux will be a job at some point. I have two big velux in the sunroof, I didn't do angled reveals.

Edited February 13, 2021 by LA3222

[SuperJohnG]

1 hour ago, LA3222 said:

Just stumbled on this, plasterboaring velux will be a job at some point. I have two big velux in the sunroof, I didn't do angled reveals.

Some amount of light in there! 

[Ben100]

I ended up adding a slight angle to my reveals. Really happy with how they've turned out!