ToughButterCup Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Thirty cubic meters of soil, sand, clay, MOT1, sore backs, calloused hands and swearing later ..... Am I glad to have got to this stage without a drop of rain being spilt.....not to mention enjoy - deeply enjoy - going to the loo for the first time when this system is built! Right: first hiccup The pipe doesn't come out of the house square to the foundation. Laterally, its about 10 to 15 degrees off . You can just about see it in this photo. How best can I correct that mis-placement? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Is this a trick question? How about a 15 degree single socket 100mm bend. P.s. I am sure there is an undisclosed complexity not mentioned in your question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 1 minute ago, epsilonGreedy said: Is this a trick question? [...] No. In common with many BH members, we ask for advice about stuff we've never done before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Yep 10, 15 ,22.5 bend just to correct yourself the bastard bit is you won’t know what you need until you lay a straight length of pipe in, as a couple of degrees out over a 6m run will have your straight run trying to get out of the trench offer it all up and try a few bends. Is that a coupler on that pipe, if not then surely that pipe is around the wrong way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 And you can also get an adjustable.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-adjustable-bend-0-90-110mm/14451 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 I would try and measure the angle with a protractor to be sure before ordering one. Unless you want to order a 10 and a 15 degree? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 11 minutes ago, Temp said: And you can also get an adjustable.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-adjustable-bend-0-90-110mm/14451 I used one of those to connect my caravan drain. In addition to the flexi bend shown in the photo, half of the coupler can be turned 180 degrees to create a sideways s-shaped wiggle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 1 hour ago, AnonymousBosch said: No. In common with many BH members, we ask for advice about stuff we've never done before. I view you as one of the most hands-on BuildHubber who is onto 1st and 2nd fix, therefore it seemed odd that you would be asking how to implement a 15 degree bend in a drainage run. Many threads here get off to a meandering start because the problem faced is not fully described in the opening post and it takes a few replies before the full complexity behind the question is revealed. I assumed this would be the case with your question, sorry. If I was to rerun my own self build I would have instead purchased one of those £100 drainage component multi-packs which contain an assortment bends and couples. These are excellent value per component compared to buying individual items over the counter at Screwfix. Do you have much more roof drainage to implement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Sorry @AnonymousBosch you need to dig it all up again ??????only joking, get the rest lined up and see what angle you need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 @Bob of this parish popped round the other day and without ceremony, left me a few bags full of second hand ..... I thanked him, and thought no more about it - until today. BH folk can be very kind. Thanks J. Since they are second hand, I thought I'd give them a rinse - taught me a lot - one or two of the seals have nicks in them. Should I recycle those? And that grey thing at the back is as good as a child's transformer toy (and bloody expensive FGS!) . It can be as twisted as a drunk pretzel ... brilliant fun. Anyway, I do as @ProDave tells me and try dry fitting the bend that closest matches my guestimate - take a pic and come back here for further mickey taking I suspect ..... and of course there's Mr Griffiths with his usual cheery note.... For the 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: [...] the bastard bit is you won’t know [...] anything much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 If you're (air) pressure testing the system; if using the ones with the nicks you could give them a try, if not pressure testing I wouldn't bother unless properly stuck. You could leak test with two pieces of pipe a blank end and a straight coupler. Stand vertical and fill with water with say 1m of water above the joint and check for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Temp said: And you can also get an adjustable.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-adjustable-bend-0-90-110mm/14451 Be aware the quality of those can be suspect and I've seen one fail a drain pressure test. Better option is to use the correct "degree" fitting or two to create the offset 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 You'll need a 10 on that. I wouldnt worry too much about small nicks in the rubber as long as they're not too big. Fwiw weve never actually had to air test any foul drainage. Usually we just bung everything and fill the stack to an upstairs aav and make sure the water level doesnt drop overnight. Also dont use the adjustable bend if you can help it. Especially underground. You can get a couple of degrees play in each coupling anyway so you will be able to get it with standard fittings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Also little tip for fitting pipes in a trench is to get the end into the socket loose (plenty of lube) then bang a couple of road pins (bits of rebar) in either side of it tilted out slightly. (this just helps to stop it jumping out which it will try to do). Then put that long shovel in the pic against the other end of the pipe and lever it in. (saves a lot of bending in the trench + gives you that extra bit of force) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Don’t forget plenty of lubricant said the actress to the bishop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 13 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Don’t forget plenty of lubricant said the actress to the bishop. Indeed. Were not talking about a courtesy dab of vaseline here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redoctober Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 For what it is worth, coming from a complete novice but would one of these not be suitable? https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/browse/underground-drainage/flexible-couplings.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 59 minutes ago, Redoctober said: For what it is worth, coming from a complete novice but would one of these not be suitable? https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/browse/underground-drainage/flexible-couplings.html I wouldnt. Firstly because its an expensive way to do the job, And those couplings are generally used for connecting to clay pipes. Not saying it wouldnt work, just unnecessary here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Just rechecked for level. All within 30 mm except for the stonyest bit ... 115 mm too high. And that was just where the shuttering was reducing the rate of trench collapse. I took the shuttering off so I could work more quickly. You know the rest. Can't take a joke? Don't self build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Want me to send your worrying head into overdrive @AnonymousBosch ? Have you allowed for any differential settlement. This is in a 150mm pipe but by regs should be 200mm. 50mm all around if going thru a wall. What's your foundation detail? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 My brickies insisted on bridging every pipe opening with a proper lintel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 That had conc lintels on each leaf above. It's a bad photo to put up really in terms of brickwork! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 17 hours ago, Oz07 said: Want me to send your worrying head into overdrive @AnonymousBosch ? Have you allowed for any differential settlement. ... What's your foundation detail? Happy to worry just enough, but no more than necessary. Allowing for differential settlement? Never even gave it a thought. The foul drain comes down inside the house and under the ring beam (shown above, apologies the illustration was intended for something else) as shown here... as you can see below the foul drain emerges under the ring beam, and there's a couple of hundred mm clearance and after a bit of fight, it now looks like this In terms of differential settlement, do I need one of those rubber connector thingies like in your photo between the pipe and the I/C Or will I be able to connect straight up to the I/C without one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 Carry on @AnonymousBosch looking good for an old un. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 Just had a word with our BCO. She says wot @Russell griffiths says. So it must be OK......? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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