"Caber+" floor to fit/ Q's.

[JFDIY]

7 hours ago, zoothorn said:

can those cheaper pB lifters, lift 15mm Fireboard ok? (i think is it? my BO recommend me to use re. sound)..

 

I use the lower style in @Onoff post, to fit a temporary staircase on my own, not recommended, but will breeze a 40kg board at your 2m height.

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, Bitpipe said:

Ask him what colour it should be. Blue is the heavy soundblock, pink the fire retardent, green moisture resistant and grey standard. From memory they were all 12.5 mm thick so you could mix and match easily.

 

So then its the pink 15mm fireblock (is it called? I don't know) he's told me to use 'better sound blocking properties than std 12.5mm' (he's been helpful re. my design & knows its gonna be a workshop, adjacent to our lane/ road etc) but I guess as much then to do with fire-containing properties too if its called Fire..Something board.

 

Does 15mm Fireblock mean anything to anyone, or never heard of it/ must be utter balls.

[zoothorn]

43 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

If this is a workshop he will probably want the fire board wouldn’t he. 

 

So is it called fireboard, or firebloc(k)? what's the difference to std 12.5mm pB.. just 2.5mm of plaster?

 

Anyway I'm way off getting it with the current lockdown.

 

Floor complete, but not a great job: many 3mm gaps mid board, one or two 5mm gaps one all way along middle of room. I stomped the boards in, putting as much lateral pressure with feet on tops of boards as I could, instead of tonking in at the tongue edge as I had no knowing how much pressure would ruin the tongues with a wood block. Are these gaps an issue?

 

Sorry but my cam will not focus now, too much power.

 

 

[joe90]

Okeydokey, you mentioned sound proofing? 12.5mm plasterboard is fire rated as 1/2 hour which is standard, sounds like your BCO is fussy so maybe not worth arguing. Watch this U tube vid and the lifter will be a piece of cake    https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=how+to+use+a+plasterboard+lifter&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#kpvalbx=_nDOoXqueFuTA8gKo37_YBQ35 It’s the same as I bought then sold on so cost nothing ?

 

https://www.hirestation.co.uk/tool-hire/Lifting/Genie-Lift-Hire/360060/

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

So then its the pink 15mm fireblock (is it called? I don't know) he's told me to use 'better sound blocking properties than std 12.5mm' (he's been helpful re. my design & knows its gonna be a workshop, adjacent to our lane/ road etc) but I guess as much then to do with fire-containing properties too if its called Fire..Something board.

 

Does 15mm Fireblock mean anything to anyone, or never heard of it/ must be utter balls.

 

Fireline from British Gypsum and Fire Panel by Knauf for example are indeed available in 12.5 and 15mm thicknesses. 

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-fireline?tab0=0

 

&

 

https://www.knauf.co.uk/store/fire-panel/c-23/p-45

 

Whilst you're in lockdown, I wonder if you might revisit making a lifter from scrap bits lying around. Your ceiling height is pretty low after all. May a step too far for you?

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Fireline from British Gypsum and Fire Panel by Knauf for example are indeed available in 12.5 and 15mm thicknesses. 

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-fireline?tab0=0

 

&

 

https://www.knauf.co.uk/store/fire-panel/c-23/p-45

 

Whilst you're in lockdown, I wonder if you might revisit making a lifter from scrap bits lying around. Your ceiling height is pretty low after all. May a step too far for you?

 

Fireline it must have been. Anyway one of these I'm having to go with. 30 kg my BCO told me, not alot kg more.. I was pleading can I just go 12.5mm pls pls pls. No.

 

Good idea re. lifter.. but I've used up all scrap for logstores: if I'm brave enough maybe but I am an idiot so it could be a calamity (like that pic in my kitchen, of the disasterous mess).

 

I'm a bit concerned on my board gaps. 3-5mm, many places. I assume its typical to -always- cover these boards with carpet or lino as a rule? in which case I need to think of something 'workshoppy' I can lay ontop. Thin. Any ideas?

[Onoff]

13 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I'm a bit concerned on my board gaps. 3-5mm, many places. I assume its typical to -always- cover these boards with carpet or lino as a rule? in which case I need to think of something 'workshoppy' I can lay ontop. Thin. Any ideas?

 

I'd run masking tape up either side of the gap then fill with one of the products designed to be a GAP FILLING ADHESIVE. Like No Nails, No More Nails, Instant Nails etc. Then take of the excess with a scraper, credit card etc.

 

I typed "gap filling adhesive" into the Screwfix site. Use the cheapest I would. Peel the tape off whilst still wet and let it all set. You might even have a tube(s) of something lying around.

 

 

Old carpet tiles are a cheap floor covering if you can get them. Search Freeads, Gumtree etc.

Edited April 28, 2020 by Onoff

[Russell griffiths]

1. Get some waterproof pva woodwork glue. 

2.  get a big pile of fine sawdust from sanding wood. 

3. mix it into a paste, push into gaps. 

4.  leave to harden then sand flat. 

5. Send beer tokens to me. ??

 

[ProDave]

To anyone else reading.

 

To mate boards together.  Take an offcut of a piece of boarding so you have a tongue or groove to slot into your open end.  Then you can blat that damned hard with a hammer to drive your boards together without damaging your tongue or groove. All that will get damaged is your offcut that ends up as scrap anyway.

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

1. Get some waterproof pva woodwork glue. 

2.  get a big pile of fine sawdust from sanding wood. 

3. mix it into a paste, push into gaps. 

4.  leave to harden then sand flat. 

5. Send beer tokens to me. ??

 

 

That's old school and I've done similar many times but won't he end up with scuffed, sanded lines in what looks like nice, shiny, new boards? That'd annoy the Hell out of me if I had to live with it for a while before covering with lino or whatever. 

[Russell griffiths]

10 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

That's old school and I've done similar many times but won't he end up with scuffed, sanded lines in what looks like nice, shiny, new boards? That'd annoy the Hell out of me if I had to live with it for a while before covering with lino or whatever. 

If it was my workshop I would stick down some vinyl tiles on top, easy to sweep, nicer to stand on for long periods. 

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

If it was my workshop I would stick down some vinyl tiles on top, easy to sweep, nicer to stand on for long periods. 

 

Agreed. Our workshop at work is dark (cast offs) carpet tiles. Murder vacuuming swarf out of it! Plus you can't hear where a screw went when you drop it. 

[zoothorn]

11 hours ago, ProDave said:

To anyone else reading.

 

To mate boards together.  Take an offcut of a piece of boarding so you have a tongue or groove to slot into your open end.  Then you can blat that damned hard with a hammer to drive your boards together without damaging your tongue or groove. All that will get damaged is your offcut that ends up as scrap anyway.

 

.. If you have enough/ a scrap offcut. I didn't as builder left me a board short, so needed every sq cm. all I had was 1 rogue 1/3rd offcut (I pilfered from their scrap in dec.. & I had to use this to complete the job). if I'd used this to blat hard I'd damaged the caber tongues. couldn't risk it or use a block.

 

His saving £30 means my job a hassle & compromised. And I give him £28fkn000.

[dpmiller]

/say howmuch??

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

If it was my workshop I would stick down some vinyl tiles on top, easy to sweep, nicer to stand on for long periods. 

 

Great that's a plan then. I need to make totally sure nothing gets down between tiles tho > onto caber (with these fallible gaps I've done even filled up.. IE router friction dust = hot). Any sealing gubbins I can brush-on the cabers, prior to vinyl tiling maybe? or is this idea OTT?

 

The reason I wanted concrete floor, not chipboard, is the router/ friction dust often glowing hot, etc. Hardly ideal for any TF build, so I need to be extra preventative, surface-wise, if i can.

[zoothorn]

33 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

/say howmuch??

 

£30 per caber-? and £28k paid to my builder for the build (not including ALL inside xy & z).

 

Just painted 1st hot lockdown week.. so its coming on.

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Agreed. Our workshop at work is dark (cast offs) carpet tiles. Murder vacuuming swarf out of it! Plus you can't hear where a screw went when you drop it. 

 

I best not go carpet tiles if its a woodworkshop with floor dust galore. must be a smooth brushy surface.

 

I did the 10mm floor expansion gap around, & the same gap up to my slate door threshold sill I'm looking at a very fallible floor edge: right where maximum chance of moisture/ innevitable bit of rain getting on. What best to do here chaps?

 

Thanks, zoot.

[Onoff]

54 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Any sealing gubbins I can brush-on the cabers, prior to vinyl tiling maybe? or is this idea OTT?

 

OTT. Vinyl tiles will butt up tight to each other.

 

48 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Just painted 1st hot lockdown week.. so its coming on.

 

 

Looks very in keeping imo.?

[zoothorn]

@Onoff thanks.. it does on the house front (lower door) side, render excellent here. Then he got a bit excited on the other two sides, & when sun moved round the extention lookslike its got hives.

 

Bloomin placcy black downpipe. Negated house front one (this would've cocked-up the house front look bigtime) by my brilliant idea of connecting up to the existing main house gutter > along & down > out far RHS, kitchen. But couldn't do with this back-side downpipe as existing house gutter higher -by 1 inch.

 

Can you get angled small ~1ft sections, to fit onto the gutter exit (down) that angle in to the wall > then down > the downpipe tucks into wall & fixes onto this-? The slope-out of all 3 of my square black downpipes to meet the gutters = unsightly plastic profile to the house edges.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Agreed. Our workshop at work is dark (cast offs) carpet tiles. Murder vacuuming swarf out of it! Plus you can't hear where a screw went when you drop it. 

 

Would it be normal to not tile/ carpet/ whatever over caber floors -before- BCO comes along to check my interior build xyz? this'll be 2 months away min now. Or could I do it prior to him coming do you think?

 

 

[Mr Punter]

I would have thought that BC would now only need to do a completion inspection.  Ask them.

[Onoff]

16 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Would it be normal to not tile/ carpet/ whatever over caber floors -before- BCO comes along to check my interior build xyz? this'll be 2 months away min now. Or could I do it prior to him coming do you think?

 

 

 

I would expect them just to want to see the wall boards and ceiling boards but unpainted / pre decoration. Imagine if you painted the ceiling and they said how do we know it's fire board?

 

Ring and ask. Tell is what they say.

[zoothorn]

21 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I would expect them just to want to see the wall boards and ceiling boards but unpainted / pre decoration. Imagine if you painted the ceiling and they said how do we know it's fire board?

 

Ring and ask. Tell is what they say.

 

Yes that makes sense- they could tell if the floor ok solid, & if PIR under by feel underfoot.. & its H tells what ammount of PIR in.

 

If I call... he gets all sgt major 'no/ must do xyz' as I'm a newbie!

[Bitpipe]

My BCO was happy with pictures of work done if it needed covered up to move ahead with the job. We did a full new build and he only came to site four times (fouls, foundations, first fix and final inspection).

 

Obviously a fan of the letter F.

[zoothorn]

5 hours ago, Bitpipe said:

My BCO was happy with pictures of work done if it needed covered up to move ahead with the job. We did a full new build and he only came to site four times (fouls, foundations, first fix and final inspection).

 

Obviously a fan of the letter F.

 

I don't want to see him until final inspection! so defo not calling him now.