Kelvin

Doesn’t look as if the top coat has adhered to the mist coat. Is it a waterproof type paint designed for kitchens/bathrooms? I have previously found those paints and the wipeable kind harder to work with and very susceptible to poor surface prep. I have a similar problem on the lower part of one wall about 2m wide. I mist coated everything over the coarse of a few days using Valspar Express Coat which doesn’t need to be watered down and can be used for fresh plaster. When I apply subsequent coats of paint it’s lifting the mist coat off the plaster in a few places. Everywhere else is fine. I waited for two weeks after the walls were plastered before painting and checked with my moisture meter. I also sanded the rough bits off every wall. But I can only assume that I missed this wall somehow and the plaster wasn’t fully dry or the surface was too shiny when I applied the mist coat. I’ve bought Gardz Surface sealer to hopefully address the problem. The challenge you’ll have with repairing is trying to sand it back to get a feather edge to repaint. What I had to do was sand the area back then fill it with a very thin layer of filler and sand that back.

Find somewhere to rent that’s much closer.

We didn’t bother with a temp supply either and went straight to a final supply in a GRP box. The issue we had was it took months to get the meter installed. Up until then I used our EV too. Worked really well.

Thanks. Very helpful. It’s a capacitive switch on the bedside switch. I spent 30 mins on config earlier as a break from painting and have set a few moods up and automated it a bit more.

It seems unlikely to me. New houses/renovations can take a while to dry out of course. But if you’re getting mold like that you have some kind of problem. Clear the cupboard out and leave the door open to get some air around it. Do you have access to a moisture meter? You need to be careful with them as they can alarm you about what is wet and what isn’t. However they are handy to compare areas. I would try and determine what’s behind that corner.

It’s definitely mold and the wall is still wet. You’ll need to cut back the wall there and have a look. Is it just plasterboard?

What’s on the other side if that corner that corner? Do you have in plumbing in the wall there?

No it’s what we did. Shorter runs are better generally. Our plant room is in the centre of the house so only about 7m to the ASHP. Keep in mind it will be longer than the straight line distance as it will need to go down a fair way at either end to accommodate your floor build up and the bend radius of the pipe. I used duo insulated pipe. No need to out it in a conduit. You can make up your own due type insulated pipe as some have on here.

This thread looks like it’s become the general Loxone question thread. I’ve not had time to put much effort into configuring it all beyond adding all the devices to the rooms and associating lighting circuits to controllers and rooms then running the auto-configuration tool. Everything works and the presence sensors are all doing what they do. The Audioserver and in-ceiling speakers sound much better than I was expecting too. I have a few questions: 1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light. 2. The Touch switches are fine for most rooms. However in the open plan area, with lots of lights, they aren’t so easy to use. Presumably the best way to manage this is to just create different scenes with different light groupings. How do you then activate these with a standard switch? I do have a Touch Flex, which I’ve yet to configure, which will solve this. 3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights. I know the Loxone standard is shading and volume for these switches which is how most of them are configured but there’s one switch where I want to use the other buttons for lights. I hadn’t planned on using a fixed tablet mounted on the wall but can now see some benefit in this. Fortunately planned ahead so can easily add this.

I installed two of them. Really easy. The most important thing is to make sure they are securely fixed so zero movement both of the frame and the plasterboard over it. The instructions include the option of screwing the plasterboard to the frame. You can also stick the plasterboard to the frame. My only complaint is the Delta 20 flush plate is cheap and plasticky.

3 days per bathroom here. And 7 days to do 145m2 GF. That was a tiler and his labourer. The bathrooms had a lot of cuts as we had a few alcoves. That included all floor prep. Ditra mat downstairs. Also included in that was a large feature wall tile and half tiled utility room. Work is top quality. Best vfm and quality out of any trade I used.

Loxone panel up and running. Thanks to @Rob99 for the panel. Very neatly laid out with easy to follow instructions and easy for the sparkie and I to wire it up. Had a few cabling issues largely caused by a few things not yet connected, some cable wiring issues and a cable fault outside. Loads still to do as I’ve just quickly added all the devices to rooms and routed the lighting circuits. But at least we have lights

Standard fitting as we have one

Anything about them being stored in the environment you’re going to fit them in? We were given strict instructions to put our oak flooring in the same room it was being fitted in.

What are the instructions about storing them?

Same happened to a friend of ours. Button push and all tiled in with no access. Ridiculous. They had no option but to carefully cut around the tile grout and then plasterboard. Fortunately they’d kept a pack of the tiles.

People buy what they can afford in the area they choose to live in that’s practical for work and schools. One advantage of these kinds of estates is that they tend to be full of families roughly the same age so lots of kids. My sister (Dr) and her husband (Professor) live in such an estate. They have two young children who have a large circle of friends on the estate.

Agreed. Fit a recirculating hob that vents to the room for the occasional time you need it and MVHR for everything else.

“our neighbour’s have made a sex video. Well they don’t know that yet…”

I just sorted a leak at the mother in laws caused by mice chewing through the dishwasher and washing machine waste pipes.

You’re more relaxed about the critters getting in than I would be. If they can get in mice or rats can too!

Fair enough but personally I’d want everything to be separate and as straightforward as possible. What happens if they run into trouble part way through their development and have to stop for some reason so it takes much longer than 2 or 3 years or go bust? Where would it leave you? These things happen. Not pouring cold water on your plans. It’s exciting building a house. But it’s also risky and stressful. And things go wrong.

Why have they added your self-build to their application. That doesn’t seem good for you or them? And how have you ended up in a position where you are reliant upon them building down to you before you can start?

You won’t really gain much/any heat if you’re airtight result is around 5 and it’s questionable whether there is any benefit in fitting it all. On the passive house point. You really don’t need to build to passive house standards to get 90% of the benefits of a well insulated airtight house with minimal cold bridging. Therefore I’d be aiming to get the airtightness as low as you possibly can. There are people on here who have achieved remarkable air tightness results in renovations. If you’re still at the early stages then revisit your airtightness plans. The better you make it the more beneficial your investment in MVHR will be. You can do the airtightness yourself. The NSBRC in Swindon do courses which are worth it but it’s mostly taking a methodical logical approach to do doing it, using the right materials for the specific task and not allowing the trades to drill random holes around your external walls/roof without considering how best to do it to maintain the airtightness. There is loads of information on here about it too.

I used strap band too. Was very careful to make sure none of the ducting was hanging free but even if it was it’s not going to move or vibrate. My other half was really concerned about the noise of the MVHR system largely because someone was telling her how ‘crap’ they are. I explained it should be more or less silent which it is. We have two large attenuators which are crucial to add.