Moonshine

I think you might be right on that.

No it doesn't so it looks like the temp control nob won't turn the spindle to control the flow, so it looks as though it is the control nob that is knackered. I have just turned the flow spindle on the unit 90 degrees, and fitted the front cover, now it has a decent heat to the water. So it was definitely the mechanical control of the the temp that was broken rather than anything internal. From a quick google it looks like you are right and i need to buy a complete face plate, ah well at least the problem is found and a temp solution found. Thank you very much, i had completely over looked the mechanical side of it!

At the bottom of the control the are a number of white bits of plastic, which I presume have come from the control mechanism, see the red circle below. When I turn the temp control the trapezoidal hole turns but has gaps in its rotation (stops) even though the temp control is still moving. I think it is this control that hasn't got the full range of movement to turn the shower to it's highest heat

Check out the rotation of the nob completely, but has missing parts turning the black dial (which changes the flow), broken teeth. 20201016_200336.mp4

Boom, I think you have solved it, just taken a picture of the back of the knob. This white bits I presume the broken teeth! Any idea if you can buy just the control or need the whole front face plate?

yes i do, no fluctuation in flow rate with adjustment.

So after 3 weeks of toing and frowing with the architect and planning officer, with what i consider 'minor' amendments to the drawings, the planner is now satisfied and the drawing have been uploaded to the portal. I presume that this is now the start date of the application, FFS. After such a major ball ache just getting the drawings submitted i am expecting an absolute hell of a application process! ?

I have a mira sport max 10.8 kw with air boost which has been working fine and just recently even on its highest setting its just luke warm. About 6 months ago i replaced the thermal cut out switch as this was faulty, and it worked fine, now its on the blink again. I have looked at the mira showers website which indicates that i need a new PCB or heater tank. So far i have the following observations / fix attempts; Shower is cold on eco setting, luke warm on highest setting. When shower first turns on in the first 10-15 seconds it gets hot, then goes to luke warm When the shower is running and a toilet flushed the shower gets very hot (seems the heater tank is working) then back to luke warm once the toilet cistern is filled. Brought a new thermal cut out switch and replaced - no change Brought a new PCB and replaced - no change Checked the heater tank elements, both showing ~10 ohms and continuity I am not at a loss as to what else to try other than getting a new shower, anyone have any ideas?

There website seem to offer two brands of screed (belitex and cemfloor), interestingly the quote doesn't have details of what product its for, or a grade (e.g. C20 / C25). The cheapness may be a factor that the plot is about a mile from their office! I can DM you the company to give me you opinion.

I got an updated quote for 50mm which is £15 per m2, which seems pretty decent

Here is the @Thedreamer referance, and suggest getting the book. We have a sloping garden plot which we got planning for, which is off the above chart. We knew that the slope was always going to be the unknown, and a big cost without knowing the full extent of it. However we have tried to minimise the area of the basement that is getting cut into the slope. We probably won't know the cost to do the ground works until we are sat on the block and beam at 'ground level. Though we are getting some ground investigation work done and a structural engineer to design the retaining walls (Looking at £5k for both these things) Once these specs are know we are going get ground workers to quote on the work. Only then will we have an informed idea of cost. My hope is that because my site is dense sand I will able to use a raft and solid retaining walls. If I have to use piles then I am a bit stuffed as they are expensive. How steep is the slope and what are the ground conditions? E.g. clay is bad and you will need some expensive foundations. Maybe the plot is still on the market is because it's not a financially feasible site for them?

That looks fantastic, I do like those laminated beams

Use joist caps rather that the rubber matting? https://www.soundstop.co.uk/ZMJCAP50.php Though bear in mind you cant screw through them.

Just looking back at this photo I have just realised that the is no thermal insulation upstand, so there is going to be some nice thermal bridging. I have been in contact with a local liquid screender who have quoted £1515 + VAT for 80m2 of 65mm depth. That is £19 per m2 which doesn't seem that bad.

I was on a building site yesterday and chatted to the site manager. He said they get the show homes up in 4 months. Looking at the quality of this, I can see why they go up so quickly!

That is good to know that it needs to be 32amp, does the consumer unit need to be up spec'ed to deal with that ampage? i am planning to have a spur installed on the inside of the garage but not actually install the charger. If we do ever install one, then it can be mounted on the wall and a whole drilled through the wall for the cable.

@joe90 this isn't my build but I was on the site of a local medium volume builder

On site today and saw these i-joists built into an external wall, a fair amount of gaps around them.

interestingly i was on site today and was having a look at builds going up, and particularly that they had some detached house plots with beam and block which were already screeded with concrete without any external walls or roof. Speaking to the site manager this is how they do it even with UFH in the screed. I presume with the concrete screed exposed to the elements isn't too much of an issue.

Have a look at the Gyplyner system, particularly system 226008, still a rigid connection but may get some looses to to flexible frame / brackets compared to direct timber fixing. https://www.british-gypsum.com/~/media/Files/British-Gypsum/White-Book/White-Book-C07-S04-Linings-GypLyner-Universal.pdf This system would lose you about 50mm with skimmed 12.5mm soundbloc. The GL1 profile is freely available and the brackets a just screwed to the wall and bent round, then screwed to the GL1 profile.

Not one of these? https://www.screwfix.com/p/fitch-fastener-polished-chrome-65-x-35mm/57592

I heard about that and the only place we would go for tiles is in the kitchen so may need to deal with that then. ASHP proposed to feed the UFH

For ground floor i am doing a block and beam floor, 150mm PIR insulation, and UFH within the screed. I have initial drawn in 75mm screed, however i have been reading that i could reduce this down to 50mm with liquid screed. Reading up on liquid screed it may cost a little extra than tradition with labour being cheaper, but as as my ground floor is actually at first floor level from the front, this may be a big plus as the liquid screed can be pumped up easily. What are peoples views on traditional vs liquid screed?

use treat Use treated timber? or how about making the timber panels to go in place but don't fix them in place, store them off the ground covered in tarp?

Even a couple of screws will significantly reduce acoustic performance.