Moonshine

Scraped as much as I can off, now trying to kill off the remaining fragments

I have mechanically cleared some moss off my clay roof tiles. I am not going to pressure wash the tiles, but is there any week killer type product I can use to kill the rest of the remaining plant life? Application via a sprayer?

Seems like a bit of a waste of money if he is already using two layers of 'acoustic' (higher surface density) plasterboard. e.g. Tecsound 100 is 5.2mm thick and has a surface density of 10kg/m2, SoundBloc 12.5mm is 10.6kg/m2 Tecsound 100 is circa £12.50 m2, SoundBloc 12.5mm is circa £3.20 m2 so £9 extra per m2 in materials to save 7.3mm of wall thickness, doesn't add up to me.

no access to lift, i think that a ramp may be the way forward, even it its a temp earth one.

The basement FFL is going to be about 3.5-4m below existing ground level so may need to be machine (one quote i have got is using the Dando Terrier) what is SPT?

Good to know, though i think that i haven't explained properly, the wall is a stepped wall as below, rather than a free standing wall, so the machine would need to get up a 0.8m step (the access is too tight to get up the steps to the left in the photo) That is a good to know about the extra long hoses, though i think the furthest position for a hole is about 10m from this wall, i don't know if the hoses are that long.

I am about to get some ground investigation works done which include some window sampling and boreholes for retaining wall design. The issue with the site is that to get to the locations of the boreholes, the machine will likely need to navigate some steps and a 0.8 high wall (ramps needed). Has anyone got any experience of what inclines / slopes a mini piling rig (e.g. Dando Terrier) can handle on its tracks to get to drilling position? I have seen images like this, so know it it possible for the steps, but for the 0.8m wall, i am not sure if ramps would work as its over a ton of machinery!

Why couldn't they, if its permitted development. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-53492191 I can imagine some bungalows going up in price with this restriction lifted. Though overall it seems like a horrible idea.

Cheers, and welcome back.

I am getting a few quotes for SE works for retaining basement walls, and most have PI for £1 million which i consider standard, and would cover a fairly large cock up / legals fees and would be appropriate for a house build with retaining basement walls. However i have had a quote from one SE who has in their terms a total liability of the lesser of £25k or ten times the fee. This seems far too low for a house build with retaining basement walls. Thoughts?

Cheers, i have just looked at the LPA's planning website for annex's and it seems that there have been a number of detached one recently that have been permitted. So looks promising to submit a outline or full application.

A relative of mine has a decent sized plot in a cluster of houses in the country side. The house size is o.k, but they want more space, and are thinking about an extension / annex. This is where things gets interesting, also on the plot is a 100m2 workshop which is used for the relatives past-times, but has opportunity for renovation. This is about 20-30m from the existing house. My question is what planning qould be required to turn this workshop into a habitable detached annex of the orignal house? The shape and ridge hieght of the existing workshop wouldn't change, though maybe the windows and roof construction would. My first suggestion would be an outline permission, any thing else needing consideration.

You won't need them on the ground floor as the impedance mismatch between concrete and timber will do a fair bit of isolation for you. At first floor I am not convinced they will make a bit difference as aren't the wall sole plates going to get screwed down to the joists negating the isolation provided by the pads. Btw that drawing doesn't show resilient bars

Home made cabinet now in with only a mirror and a couple of other small jobs to do. This job dragged on and on!

From a quick scan of what you are trying to do they seem a bit redundant. Have you got drawings you can share? Are these going at ground floor or first floor?

It is, especially as rheret werent any major snags.

I am feeling a bit chuffed, removing render from the out side of my house I found two very rotted out external wall leaf wooden lintels, age god knows, as below. These needed to be replaced, given I have a bit of time on my hands I decided to DIY it, so got some lintels, cavity trays and a strong boy from jewsons this morning, and gave it a go. Main thing was the house didn't fall down, but I actually got it all done in a day in the sun. Pretty happy with the results, though the brick work is appalling!!! Not sure what the going rate is for lintel replacement, but feels like I have saved a fair chunk of money.

Came across this lintel today, yep this one definitely needs replacing, luckily it's a small window (900mm) and it's just the exterior wall leaf that is the problem

I have seen the inside from up the cavity (left below) and it's not as bad as the side, where the water has got to it.

Thanks, yes it is and Rsj and for some reason I was using the term I beam. That is reassuring, and will have a go at the worst of it.

That is the remedial work I am doing now, as water engress was getting into the house

I have been doing some renovation on the external render of my 1930's house and the external wall lintel over the patio door is rusty and flacky in places. There are two steel I beam lintals that aren't connected, the inner one is fine and it's just the outer one which is rusty. Is this level of rust o.k or should it be replaced before it's rendered over? Anything I should paint on to limit future rust?

Does anyone know if you can get a "deed of release" of land (i.e. a building plot) from a mortgage provider as an individual, or do you need to do it via a solicitor?

https://www.heatspaceandlight.com/difference-between-branch-radial-duct-which-better/

yes, above the roof (warm roof) won't that the bridging of the joists. However i would say from how it is described that its above the joists. Also how are they doing to achieve the 1:80 fall?