Moonshine

Ah right, I am having radiators upstairs.

Does that mean having radiators in parallel than series? What is the advance of doing it that way? When you say where it's hidden does that mean copper for the last section of radiator runs where it comes through the floor? Where else would you use copper or it being visible?

I am siding towards plastic plumbing for ease and DIY factor. I am sure it's been done to death but what are the cons vs copper? I am planning of going for hep20, as it seems to have a better life span than speedfit.

The original roof was osb That ridge cap is probably the best solution.

Inherited a 10 * 8 shed, which the roof was knackered on. I have got the structure up and now onto the roof. I am using OSB for the roof and have 2.4 * 1.2m sheet However when the OSB is lined up to the ridge there is a gap at the eaves. Even with a 4ft board the extra 2cm would not cover the gap. How is this gap catered for normally?

Ouch, reminds me of where builders haven't put weep holes in above openings and have cut the end of the weep hole and put that in the mortar / render making a fake one

what sort? monthly averages?

I am about the same stage as you, we have now made the choice to build, we have 60-70% of the build cost secured and building reg drawings about to go in. The avalanche is about to be set off, hopefully in May. Our biggest hurdle is getting the right ground worker involved at the right cost, as its a big part or build with the excavation and basement walls as well as phasing the works. So far a quote that i have had is both scary and disappointing, waiting on others to come back to me. My biggest concern is ££££, as i have a good idea of what is being built as i did the detailed design, and am next door to the site so can actively manage. The architect who did the planning has check my detailed design and will be active during construction doing the PCC I am having days when i think Jesus what am i taking on, but some days things come together. We do have a bit of security in the fact that we 'made' our plot and build cost really really really should not exceed the house value at the end (hopefully by a lot!)

Mine was £3.5k but includes a basement, i spoke to protek who said they aren't offering any until may now! i don't know if you try again if you will get a different answer.

I am going though this process now, I've had one quote of labour and plant for £20.5k for above DPC 2 storey. Lightweight blocks and using a bumpa lift to get the blocks to 'ground floor' from the basement / ground level (its a sloped site). Its not a standard home but the cost took me back. Taking plant hire out of it its about £20k. External façade area including openings is ~240m2 (cavity wall), with about 33m2 of internal single skin. It works out at £38.50 / m2 on a closed area basis. There is about 4400 blocks and works out at about £4.50 a block labour. A brickie recommended to me who knows the site and build, just told me to price him at £22 / m2 on a closed area basis, which would work out at £2.60 a block, but includes lintels and insulation fitting.

is this unique to ICF or all masonry builds?

I ended up giving @Dan F some advice via PM. Acoustic can mean cost increases, sometimes justified. 'Acoustic' plasterboard is really just denser plasterboard it doesn't have any magical acoustic properties other than being denser than standard plasterboard. Block internal walls aren't really standard, though if you are willing to soak up the expense and extra room then they can out perform stud work, especially at low frequencies as they have greater mass. I have never come across someone using a cavity masonry wall for internal walls, they are primarily used on party walls. If you really want to go for block, you could use something like block with a independent stud (metal / wood) wall with insulation in the cavity. Stud or masonry? for what aim? No real need to as in a domestic setting carpets and soft furnishings will usually be fine. For internal floors it depends how much sound insulation you want.

why not get a retrospective warranty at a later date when you come to sell it?

mine too at £120 ?, it would be interesting if there was details of how it varied throughout the country.

holy feck!!!!

No they are ultra lightweight aggregate blocks. Good thermal values for them, may look to use them rather than besblock ultralites

or stick some resi bars on the timber studs

i am actually going for this on my build.

I really hope whoever has brought it has done their due diligence, and can deal with the surface water and get condition 6 discharged;

Sold for £172k https://www.cliveemson.co.uk/properties/224/14/ Someone feels they can make it work....

I am having oak solid core doors my build, door style to be decided, i was going to have standard white architrave and skirtings, until my good lady highlighted that oak looks a lot better, as below i can see her point. I now wanted to go down the oak architrave and skirtings route, i am sure that the cost is going to be painful but worth it for the look. Do people go for the solid oak or veneer? also what are the tricky bits with installation vs traditional white architrave and skirtings, i presume there is no hiding gaps with decorators caulk and paint.

Yes I have. Do you know when the house was built or if there is any insulation in the cavity? The flanking noise via the roof void is unlikely the be a significant transmission path, though the mortar on that block work does not give the impression of good workmanship. Subjectivity does the noise from the neighbours sound as though it's coming from the wall perimeters or from the whole wall, also is it mainly low or high frequency noise you hear through the wall. To treat it you are probably going to have to loose 5-10cm of room.

if you really have a 300mm cavity i would look at 200-300mm of dritherm 37 or similar material