James Newport

White spirit?

The thinner ones are easier to move by yourself

Let me know how that turns out - a waterfall kitchen island is on the cards here too and compact laminate is one of the options

Sorry, thought you meant you stick them up one day and screw them in later!

Sorry, no idea. If I didn't have a load of the cement board version already I'd be going for the foam core version instead though.

They look like the foam core, rather than the solid cement boards. The guy from STS may have been talking about the solid cement version if he recommended tanking them. Worth double checking with them.

Bonding coat being plaster bonding coat? I didn't think that was especially quick drying, so how do you hold the timber in place while the bonding coat dries?

Fair enough for the STS boards, since they're technically not waterproof. (I think they developed a render carry board and then just decided to market it for other things) Pick one of the waterproof boards and then get the manufacturer to confirm if they need additional tanking?

Who told you to tank the waterproof one?

I think it depends on the board. I used SDS construction boards because I had them left over, and they recommended tanking them since they are considered porous even though they hold their structure when wet. Whereas other boards are made of more magic stuff that is actually waterproof.

Never tried it, so I'll be interested to see how it turns out! How good is your saw? Less places to hide with a mitre joint right at the top. Will you be able to clamp both both pieces nice and tight for gluing?

Yep, temporary kitchen and take your time. We have a couple of portable induction hobs from the Aldi special aisle and a combi microwave crammed into the utility room because that's finished. I am loving how close together everything is, even if at times it's like that episode of Keeping Up Appearances when they buy the shoe box flat in the big posh house.

You can put them in by hand, they're only going through plastic and into foam. I expected the plumber to use a stapler, but he'd lent it out, and what else are apprentices for anyway...

Could try http://www.premdor.co.uk/ For a solid feel choose a fire door version

Thanks for all the answers. Our lintel has been in for nine months and is showing very little in the way of deflection, and that includes the eighty-seven mule loads of shoes that have been inserted into the sidle-in wardrobe.

Are you comfortable living on a building site, and doing so for several years? That's what's likely to happen if you go for either the full renovation or the amazing rebuild without having the entire budget available. You could always move out, but that will stretch the budget even further... Just over twelve months ago we started on our full renovation of a sixties bungalow, and despite having a decent budget it has been a hard slog. It gets draining after a while, having to step over piles of two by four to make a cup of tea. Oh, and the dust, and the builders drying their hands on your tea towel as they solve Brexit/middle east/string theory for the sixty-seventh time. Thanks to growing up in a house that was being renovated around me (we used to have to climb up scaffolding to go upstairs) I was very blasé about renovating, but I cannot wait for the last bit of plastering to be finished upstairs and we can finally have carpets again! And a kitchen, with an oven that isn't sitting on the floor on what have turned out to be floor tiles laced with asbestos!

I keep seeing threads where people talk about deflection in a steel lintel potentially causing problems for bifold doors because the bend in the lintel squeezes the bifold frame and stops the doors working properly. But doesn't the deflection of the lintel happen when you load the lintel by adding roof or joists or brickwork above? So then as long as you then size the bi-fold height taking account of this deflection, you're all good.

Is that down to the design of the Ikea units, perhaps? I had a flatpack kitchen from another online supplier and it was fine once built. Each unit took ten minutes to put together.

Righto, off I go to look at 4k projectors, even though I've spent my projector money on insulation...

Projector central is a good a place to start (https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm). Narrow it down to what will fit in your space (and give you as much size as possible) and go from there. I bought a screen from http://www.sapphireav.com/, and it's been great. Richer sounds sell them, but if you live in the same town as the importer's depot the MD will drive it up to your house in his car as a nice surprise.

I love my projector and even though it's only standard HD compared to the 4k telly it's miles better. It's the sheer bigness, see. 4k projectors have come down in price over the last few years though and if you spend enough you can get one with good contrast and brightness. A screen that comes down in front of the television is great because it lets you have a normal sized tv that doesn't dominate the room, but switch into cinema mode when you want to. Then you start dreaming of motorised screens, or how to rig up a contraption to pull the edges of the screen taut and get rid of a wave in the fabric that only you can see

2 - vent goes above the eaves protector because in this case you're ventilating between the membrane and the tiles. When you've seen it *below* the eaves protector it's because that's a different type of roof construction 3 - eaves protector *underneath* the membrane, so that any water that runs down the membrane flows onto the eaves protector and into the gutter. Hopefully they've left the membrane at the bottom long enough for it nicely overlap the eaves protector. If not you'll have to insert another length of membrane at the bottom *underneath* the one above. 1 - logically that all looks right to me, but I have build 0 roofs out of SIPS panels. You look like you have a good grasp of it though.

I vote for the unstable tile/load hypotheseseseseseses above... When I had wood burner it was possible touch the legs of the stove without having your hand seared into a charcoal stump.

But how does insulation under the slab slow that process?

how does insulation under the slab slow the response time of UFH?