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Still no news to report on the Baxi Ecogen replacement model - will update this thread if I find something out

Amazon have this as published June 2006 - is it up to date enough to be worth purchasing/reading?

Working on cabling layout now. When running 240VAC and Cat6 data cabling down from ceiling void to a shared wall socket, I'm assuming putting both in same channel is not best practice. So my question is: what is a sensible separation between parallel runs of mains and data cables? 2cm, 5cm, 10cm? Closer in blockwork than behind plaster board? Or am I being too picky about this?!

Misses wants some fancy oak stairs, but these need to be fitted after plastering completed. Question: what is the normal practice to allow safe easy access to the second floor? A cheap set of stairs from ebay or just leave the trades struggling on a loose ladder?

Sorry forgot to say Brick and Block house (not timber frame) - see: My house is going green - mould on inside blockwork - beginning to dry out now 12 weeks - we were (very) late deciding and ordering - Internorm still to confirm exact date. CLS screwed to inside block covered in OSB and a few battery powered LED lights might at least help things progress, will investigate Cheers all.

Roof on now. But windows not arriving for another 10 weeks (so going into Autumn). All I can think of for temporary window opening covers are plastic sheeting, or thin polycarb windows stuck on with tape. Neither of which are secure or particularly wind proof. Therefore is it worth going to the expense of installing some temporary cover over the window openings to keep the house weather proof now that it is internally dry, or is it normal practice to let the rain and wind blow through?

Keep us posted of how you get on. My BPC kit lying here ready for installing...

https://romeopower.com/products/ Targeting EV but also home storage.

Luckily this new room will be NE facing so should benefit from morning sun to warm it up, while being shaded to prevent over heating in afternoon/evening. So after reading all the comments, the conclusion is I'll just ensure there is plenty of electrical connections available at ground floor and light height for now. BuildHub saving me cash again - thanks all :-)

Switch on the outside seems best then - definitely not keen on PIR sensors for the reason I prefer not to be blinded in the middle of the night and when laying in the bath I'll be plunged back into black!

I find it dreadful the noise of the pull cord ceiling mounted switches I have in my current house. Anyone recommend a quiet switch please?

https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/auction-catalogues/charterfields/catalogue-id-charte10016/lot-55638405-42e0-4c8c-a687-a658010c73f4

Next question. How to insulate ufh pipe? Though opening the door to the heated space does seem quite a cheap option that might just do for all but winter!

No idea how big garden room would be - not sure if there will be any money spare for some time! 15m tails might just reach manifold. I think laying a pair of supply and return pipes that are looped back near the potential room connecting wall is best - so a connection can be can cut into them at a later date (I'll at least know the location of any potential leaks that way). Question is it possible to insulate the UFH pipework in the screed - so that I can run it this long distance without it losing heat before reaching the future room? Also means I can run it under the kitchen cupboards without heating up my pots and pans or sending food off.

Eventually I might add a conservatory/garden room to my new build dwelling. How can I pre-plumb my UFH circuits so that it is simple to get the UFH into this new area without digging up the floor all the way back to the manifold which will probably be the otherside the house? And related: if I were to put UFH pipework in an outdoor patio area (which could become the floor of the future conservatory) would I be able to: 1. 100% isolate the patio UFH pipework so that it does not lose heat in the winter (before conservatory built) 2. to use the patio UFH to dump any unwanted heat from the remaining UFH circuit to help cool the house (before conservatory built) Thanks

So the Baxi Ecogen (in its current design) is not looking the way to go, thanks for your time and effort in researching it :-) According to @JSHarris Fabric and ventilation heat loss calculation is around 3kW in winter (note I've upped the ACH to 3.5 as got less confidence in the house air-tightness now its built - still to be measured)

Thanks Nick, just had a chat with a guy at Baxi. Apparently the Dachs needs mains electric. While the Ecogen is currently being replaced (he's gone away to find out when). If you get a moment have a look at this: Youtube: How it works Ecogen I actually thought if could use the Ecogen in low mode (i.e. without the supplmentary heater exchanger running) it could nicely tick over keeping the heat for the UFH topped up whilst keeping the batteries topped up. I did not see the Ecogen as a replacement for the backup genny just a way of getting something for nothing (though the costs (£3700 + installation) might mean it's another 100 year payback jobbie!)

Still looking at living off-mains electric grid. Will have LPG for heating & cooking. Anyone experience of the Baxi Ecogen or SenerTec Dachs mini-CHP or any other boiler with electric generation recommendations?

Gosh I don't want to be going up a 3 storey ladder every few weeks to clear some fluff - might need to have a think how to clean the vents from inside

'AN97' which as far as I can tell is a rebadge of this app: http://camerafi.com/app/camerafi/

Just received the ebay item Vijay suggested. Much much better, lighter, simple connection and even has wheel to control the LED light output Cheers @Vijay!

BPC 150mm Exterior grill GPVC150 Black and P150-1 150mm pipework x 1 meter (can't actually find it on their website) I'm running these through the wall horizontally and then the connecting tubes will run up from these to actual unit to ensure any rain blown through the grills can not enter into the unit.

I just ordered mine this afternoon. Two 150mm metal tubes and a couple of plastic grills - did not like the look of the metal cowls. And to answer your question (with my limited knowledge) I've yet to choose the final MVHR unit I will use but BPC did not see this as an issue. FYI they need to be a minimum of 1.5m apart

Been speaking with BPC and they say no cleaning is needed as their pipes have an anti-bacterial internal coating Phew :-)