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Quick Google brings up many links for growing cannabis in wet Rockwool, seems it holds water well without actually absorbing it. Will call Rockwool technical

Located in a 100mm cavity between brick and blocks. Will see advice

Having moaned about the lack of protection of my xtratherm during the house build, I now find that the garage build insulated with 100mm rockwool is randomly unprotected, protected with sacking, protected with DPC. So it has got wet in the recent horrible weather. Person A tells me it will dry out Person B tells me it never dries out Given this is an unheated garage of 70m2 I can't see how the insulation in the wall can dry out. Questions: Whats the normal accepted practice (and ideally what is best practice) for looking after the rockwool type insulation during a build? Will it really dry out? Thanks

His panels I believe. It's a bit complex and something for another thread, when I've calmed down enough to write it without using a ton of expletives!

My tip for project management is to keep a diary of who's on site and what they are doing. Although I've got a security camera recording this it would have saved me lots of time if I'd kept a diary from the start. My 'diary' now is a simple text file in a Dropbox folder that me or my partner (co Project Manager) update daily consisting of just a line per day giving which contractor is onsite, how many men and what they are doing. Takes about 30 secs a day to update.

All a bit vague but under this proposed new arrangement I'm effectively rewarding the builder for having committed very few man days to the project in the early summer - so am very annoyed by it and have yet to fully respond.

I tried asking the HSE, who simply pointed me back to their website which I struggled to hunt around to find an answer to this questions

Have arranged for a H&S consultant to come and review site and procedures and advice what else we need to do (could be the expensive option but am time poor atm)

My property is almost water tight (roof on, windows and doors fitted) just waiting for garage to get to same state and my ****** builder has decided he wants to charge monthly for the security fencing (a very different topic) Question, when can I (legally) remove the security fencing: * once dwelling is water tight and secure? * once drive way installed? * once landscaping done? * once garden border bushes planted and garden fence in place? * once I live in the property? * once the roses are in bloom?

Checked the meter no leaks will get static pressure kit sorted

Half of the land is on our family farm. The pipe was originally put in after the war using metal. I replaced the last 30m of metal last year and it should now be 25mm plastic most of the way now.

Cheers @Nickfromwales in the meantime here, this video gives a hint of the water pressure: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55058337/2016-11-10 08.06.52.mp4 We are just wondering if we've a leak somewhere so will be checking the water meter (2km away!) first

I intend to pack with insulation the entire space (as it is effectively and outside wall in places) Any chance you can point me to some details of what a firestop needs to look like please (although it will be my chippy building the box so hopefully he'll know but would be good if I know)

@TerryE thanks for the concern and advice most kind. As you can I made some good progress last night at the tidying up these pipes, which will be lost in an rockwool filled void along with soil and waste pipes The pipes entering the block work are angled at maybe 20degree, as I need them to exit nearly flat the other side the wall

Lincolnshire - at the end of the line out seems!

I was running a bath the other night when OH was trying to do the dishes but only a dribble of hot water was coming out. And this is in the holiday cottage we are living in that is 500m further nearer to the mains water connection than my new place. which is about 2km away with about 8 properties sharing the same private 40mm ish pipe. My new place will be property number 7. Plus a quick test shows good initial pressure but this reduces after 5 secs.

Ditto @Onoff whats a 'break tank'? (I shunted the garage left a couple of metres @Nickfromwales so it is now attached :-) )

Cheers I thought there really ought to be a dedicated tool. I've 25 and 35mm strapping so am currently cutting a third ether side and bending it - tedious!

It is one of my upper to lower floor pipework corridors which will eventually be boxed in via a stud wall. I plan to make them neat and vertical now I've got the strapping to hold them in place (I'm using tiewraps where practical). Thanks

So although my dwelling won't be passiv hauus standard I'm trying to ensure very little heat escapes into the attic space. Now I'm learning my water pressure is not good enough to run without a cold water tank in the attic. In previous older houses I've seen well lagged cold water tanks be located central in the attic space and have minimal insulation underneath them so some house heat escapes to keep the tank above freezing. Whats the work around for super insulated air tight dwellings to stop the cold water tank freezing please?

So SWMBO insists on heated towel rails. I've just seen you can get wet / water based towel rail radiators with optional extra built-in electric heater elements. These could be a useful dump for excess summer time PV. Are there any downsides to electric heater elements in wet towel rails? I note the sales leaflet says the valves need to be left fully open which makes me think each towel rail needs to be on its own manifold circuit controlled by a thermostat - so in Spring/Autumn the left fully open valve does not take lots of heat from the space heating system when its not needed.

Is there a specific tool for cutting builders strapping? My nail pulling tool is pretty useless

Just opened all my BPC supplied boxes to find they had supplied two rolls of strapping! I should have looked in all the boxes first!

That is a huge help, though without electric and internet connectivity I might have to stick with paper :-(

Anyone maintaining a CDM Health & Safety file on their site? And if so what's in it? Seems weird putting system/plant instructions in a H&S file Thanks